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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am getting ready to tackle the subframe rust repair. While my unibody box is rusted out, the part that the bolt threads into appears to still be attached to the unibody. When I jack up the back end of the Pilot, the subframe doesn't lower. If I apply torque to the subframe bolt it doesnt turn.

For those of you that have made the repair did your subframe drop down, sag, when you jacked up the car?

I have a piece of 1/4" thick box steel I will used for the repair. I plan on going thru the floor similar to StMech. I need to remove that piece so I can drill into the floor.
 

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I am getting ready to tackle the subframe rust repair. While my unibody box is rusted out, the part that the bolt threads into appears to still be attached to the unibody. When I jack up the back end of the Pilot, the subframe doesn't lower. If I apply torque to the subframe bolt it doesnt turn.

For those of you that have made the repair did your subframe drop down, sag, when you jacked up the car?

I have a piece of 1/4" thick box steel I will used for the repair. I plan on going thru the floor similar to StMech. I need to remove that piece so I can drill into the floor.
Yes, on my Pilot, the sleeve had rusted away from the box beam/cross member, allowing the sleeve to pull out and the subframe to drop down. It sounds like the sleeve is still partially attached to the cross member in your Pilot. The female sleeve assembly is spot welded inside the cross member at several points. The subframe mounting bolt threads into the sleeve from below. If everything is still secure, you may wish to just monitor the situation. Otherwise, if you wish to proceed with a repair, you will need to get the sleeve and bolt out of there, without damaging the subframe. I don't think that you will be able to loosen that bolt, as it is probably a mass of rust. If you bully it enough with a breaker bar, you will probably break the sleeve loose from the cross member. Then you need to cut the bolt off where it enters the sleeve, pull the pieces out , and proceed with the repair.

Of course, once you tear the sleeve loose from the cross member, there is no turning back, and you either repair the connection, or junk the vehicle. This is why you may wish to just monitor the subframe attachment for now, since it seems to still be hanging in there.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Business opportunity: If one of you guys starts fabricating and selling an all-in-one subframe repair kit, there will be an ever-increasing demand for them and you'll make almost as much money as member @verbatim has with his VCMuzzler kit. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Business opportunity: If one of you guys start fabricating and selling an all-in-one subframe repair kit, there will be an ever-increasing demand for them and you'll make almost as much money as member @verbatim has with his VCMuzzler kit. (y)
Yes, on my Pilot, the sleeve had rusted away from the box beam/cross member, allowing the sleeve to pull out and the subframe to drop down. It sounds like the sleeve is still partially attached to the cross member in your Pilot. The female sleeve assembly is spot welded inside the cross member at several points. The subframe mounting bolt threads into the sleeve from below. If everything is still secure, you may wish to just monitor the situation. Otherwise, if you wish to proceed with a repair, you will need to get the sleeve and bolt out of there, without damaging the subframe. I don't think that you will be able to loosen that bolt, as it is probably a mass of rust. If you bully it enough with a breaker bar, you will probably break the sleeve loose from the cross member. Then you need to cut the bolt off where it enters the sleeve, pull the pieces out , and proceed with the repair.

Of course, once you tear the sleeve loose from the cross member, there is no turning back, and you either repair the connection, or junk the vehicle. This is why you may wish to just monitor the subframe attachment for now, since it seems to still be hanging in there.
I stopped at 650 ft-lbs on the bolt, I can hit ~1000 with a pneumatic wrench - but worried about snapping the bolt instead of breaking loose the insert. Agree monitor it, Ohio winters will finish it off.
 

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Business opportunity: If one of you guys start fabricating and selling an all-in-one subframe repair kit, there will be an ever-increasing demand for them and you'll make almost as much money as member @verbatim has with his VCMuzzler kit. (y)
I appreciate the thought, but I'm afraid that your plan would be more likely to generate lawsuits, not revenue.
 

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I appreciate the thought, but I'm afraid that your plan would be more likely to generate lawsuits, not revenue.
Oh yeah, I'm afraid you're right.

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I'd consider a Honda supplied kit .. if it were priced at their cost.. I think the crossmember assembly was ~$700, painful to pay heavy profit margin for bad design or bad steel manufacturing .. then the problem is getting the old one cut out, and the new one in, and rust proof the new welds .. not a small job....

I also wonder how many others are about to let go .. and if it might cause vehicle rollovers .. I remember thinking the Pilot felt like a rear tire was going flat, or was overloaded and the overweight caused it to sway just a little after changing lanes .. Odd feeling .. A little like going over a dip in the road when towing a trailer, and the trailer pushes the car a little .. Now I think it was because the left rear mount wasn't connected. I'm thinking a high speed collision avoidance maneuver combined with the right side disconnecting would have been ugly for sure... I hope others will inspect and rust proof accordingly ..
 

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Due to this forum, I bought 2 cans of the 'Fluid Film' and already sprayed a few things on both our Pilots.
I guess I'll have to spray some more after the underbody car washes?

If this lets go on ours, I'll probably scrap it! I dunno
 

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Ha, I just did the same last week when I put my winter tires on, and after spritzing my suspension's rubber bushings and boots with, you guessed it, AT-205. Yes, I took Scotty's advice and I'm not denying it. :D

If you're a farmboy and the smell of Fluid Film reminds you of all that lonely time you spent shearing sheep, it's because the secret natural bio-organic ingredient is lanolin.
142772
 

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@The Todd, I'm glad to hear you're taking steps to slow the rust ... I went wild and bought the gallon Fluid Film can, and fancy sprayer .. I'm a bit worried about the smell ..
@ plplplpl, I guess the rubber parts should get a shot of silicon spray, and not the fluid film .. Scotty has a lot to say, and mostly good info .. I've long wondered why he yells so much. I guess it's a show of confidence ..
 

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I'm a bit worried about the smell
It's from its special, all-natural ingredient -- lanolin. Comes from sheep.

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I guess the rubber parts should get a shot of silicon spray
AT-205 is a polymer. Silicon is used in the manufacture of semiconductors. Silicone is used in the manufacture of lubricants and extra cleavage. :)

I've long wondered why he yells so much.
IIRC, he said it's because he's hard of hearing. Better than a monotone drone, I suppose.

 

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@plplplpl, You're the best! That's a hoot! Thanks for helping with the precision of my post .. as you point out, silicone spray is better for rubber .. now I feel bad looking down at posters using words like prolly ... Prolly I better not throw stones...:giggle: Now every time I see the "e" on the spray can in the garage, I can laugh a little ..

I agree about lanolin .. wax from sheep ... reminding me of Fluid Film's competitor, Wool Wax .. some say it's thicker, so it won't wash off, but won't "wick" and creep as well into small joints where rust forms .. So maybe silicone for rubber, wool wax for exposed areas, and Fluid Film for inside doors, rockers, and rusty rear cross members ..
Scotty's volume and tone do keep a person awake .. I'm glad I control the volume .. I do like Scotty's automotive history videos . .He's not just a repair guy .. He's in touch with the car industry, and the history videos have no yelling. I guess it's a pivot due to his influence, and fun for him. This one talks about silicon in Honda's piston rings, and Honda's history ..
 

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I did get a good look at my front and rear subframe mounts. While there is some corrosion/rust, it's no where near letting go and coming apart- thank God. The 08 FWD still drive very stable after 186K- and all original drive train parts- except brake pads- I've changed those a few times now.
I'll keep spraying the subframe mount areas down with the sheep smelling stuff and call it a day.
I will be washing more regular at the drive thru place w/ underbody wash every few weeks when they start with the salt on the roads.

ON my 15 4WD, basically no rust. Trying to keep it that way. So I'm-
using fluid film on things underneath, and
we have the unlimited car wash w/ underbody spray- we'll be doing it very often when the salt trucks start. We can use it up to twice a day!
 
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My 03 came from an Ohio auto auction. Not much more needs to be said, except it's still driveable and Arkansas does not have inspections. :cool:
 

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My 03 came from an Ohio auto auction. Not much more needs to be said, except it's still driveable and Arkansas does not have inspections. :cool:
As long as it's safe for you and others, fine. 😎
 

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Define "safe" :D
As in, will the wheels/subframe fall out. Will it suddenly loose the ability to hold a lane and crash?
 
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