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Also, yesterday the check oil light started flashing. I checked the oil and the level was fine. It turns off after I turn the car off and turn it back on.
That's not good. This could be engine bearings.

Two reasons for the oil light to come on....
-Low Pressure
-Low Oil which leads to low pressure

If you have oil, then you have reduced pressure in the engines which can be the bearings worse case. I'd bring it in to the shop and delay the self diagnosis.
 

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Apparently one cell of the battery is dead. This wouldn't contribute to the cars problems would it?

Also, yesterday the check oil light started flashing. I checked the oil and the level was fine. It turns off after I turn the car off and turn it back on.

I also put in some injector cleaner but it hasn't made a difference.

Thanks for your suggestions. I think I'm going to replace the fuel filter next.

yes it would. When I lost a cell in the battery I got codes for all cylinder misfire and a random. Replace the battery first and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I have some updates since my last post.
I replaced the battery and it made now difference.
I brought the car to a great local honda mechanic and replaced the idle control valve again and the air fuel sensor. The car still did the same thing so he drove the car for a while and had some of the other mechanics in the garage drive it. In addition they did some diagnostic test and the conclusion was that the torque converter is bad. This makes sense since in addition to the previously posted symptoms I have recently noticed that the pilot takes sometime to engage in reverse and drive. This is despite already replacing the engine mounts. The care is still idling rough and occasionally shudders at mostly lower speeds.
Do you think this sounds like the torque converter and should I replace the torque converter or the converter and the transmission.
This car also has a recall on the tranny and had a oil heat shield put in at 2200 miles. Do you think that this problem is related to the recall. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
So I replaced the battery and there was no change.
I found a really great local honda mechanic and he replaced the idle control valve and the air fuel sensor. The car still had the same problems.
He did some additional diagnostic tests and drove the car for a while and has made the diagnosis of a bad torque converter. This seems to fit with symptoms that my car has had. In addition I have noticed that it takes a while to engage in reverse and drive even after the motor mounts were replaced.
does this sound like a reasonable diagnosis? Should I get the torque converter replaced or both the torque converter and tranny?
The transmission had a recall on it and a oil heat child was put in. Is the current problem related to the recall?
Thanks!
 

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2016 CRV Touring AWD, 2005 Pilot RIP.
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You said in the first post hesitating on the highway.
What speed? 30-45mph? If so I'd go with third and fourth gear pressure switches replacement.
 

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Any update?
 

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Have the same problem... did anyone ever figure this out it is now 2021 ten years latter hope some one figured the fix
The poor soul probably ran out of money and patience trying to replace every damn part on the car.
 

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The poor soul probably ran out of money and patience trying to replace every damn part on the car.
Or replaced the transmission and/or the engine, and then drove off into the sunset.
 

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It's an old post, but the trip to the stealership and getting a couple of parts shot off the hip by the service dept then they turn around and say it's the torque converter just kills me. 🤦‍♂️ I'm sure the transmission was full of old DW-1 ATF too.
 

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Im a little late to the party but I found this video very long but very informative:


TLDR:

incorrectly routed ground cable caused excessive voltage/amperage from the starter to travel through the crankshaft which magnetized the crank sensor reluctor wheel, which in turn caused interference with the crank sensor reading which caused further issues with injector timing.

The fix was to remove the crankshaft and replace the reluctor wheel, or use an experimental tool to demagnetize the wheel.

Not sure if thats whats going on here but might be helpful. would have to pull the oil pan and measure the magnetic field of the reluctor wheel. It shouldnt have any magnetism.
 
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