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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2004 / 140,000 miles. Noticed a few drips on the driveway... Seems to be wet under/behind the oil fill, then works its way down the front of the motor. Any thoughts ?
 

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Banned from wife’s 2005 Pilot LX
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Was the oil changed recently? It could be just spillage at the fill port that’s finally making its way to the ground.

You could clean it off and monitor it over the next week to identify the leakage point.
 
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The dark, dirty oil film on the valve cover and engine might be indicative of the valve cover gasket or sloppy oil refilling over a period of time. As mentioned clean up the area and keep an eye on these areas. Are you monitoring oil levels between oil change intervals? Are you adding oil between oil change intervals?
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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That would be my cue to recommend the quick, inexpensive and effective solution of AT-205. Worked for me.

More Information for ATP AT205

But don't just take Scotty's and my word for it, FWIW, this time, read some other reviews.

ATP Automotive AT-205 ATP Re-Seal Additive | Summit Racing

 

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I'm thinking valve cover gaskets. Uses no oil between changes. Will clean the area and monitor.
If, after 140K miles, you've never had the valve clearance checked/adjusted, you can do that and replace the gaskets while the valve covers are off.
 

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There are a few places that you may want to look for leaks. See this yt video:


Namely, oil pressure/spool valve/vvt solenoid gasket -- all close to the oil filter housing; valve cover gasket; camshaft thrust seal gasket; rear main seal gasket.
 

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That was a very informative video.
 
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There are a few places that you may want to look for leaks. See this yt video:


Namely, oil pressure/spool valve/vvt solenoid gasket -- all close to the oil filter housing; valve cover gasket; camshaft thrust seal gasket; rear main seal gasket.
Good video, never knew about that one cap next to the EGR valve with the hardened o-ring. But he better get new tires soon or he will be leaking air out through where the tread used to be.

I notice how great the access is underneath without all the plastic. I'm always dropping stuff that ends up on that plastic shield under the radiator which prevents it from falling all the way to the floor where it would be easy to retreive. I wonder what function it really serves and if anything bad would happen just taking and leaving it off .....?
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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I notice how great the access is underneath without all the plastic. I'm always dropping stuff that ends up on that plastic shield under the radiator which prevents it from falling all the way to the floor where it would be easy to retreive. I wonder what function it really serves and if anything bad would happen just taking and leaving it off .....?
It's for all that snow drift surfing you're missing out on. Or in your case perhaps to slide over gators. :p

Or, back on topic, maybe to catch some minor leaks before they hit your garage floor, which I would actually consider a disservice. If there's a leak, I want to be able to see it right away and nip it in the bud.
 

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It's for all that snow drift surfing you're missing out on. Or in your case perhaps to slide over gators. :p

Or, back on topic, maybe to catch some minor leaks before they hit your garage floor, which I would actually consider a disservice. If there's a leak, I want to be able to see it right away and nip it in the bud.
After fighting off two zillion plastic push pins (and two 10mm bolts) I got the whole lower vanity cover off. Those plastic push pins are a piece of work. You pull down the center part and it breaks off before relieving pressure on the wings, leaving no way to get it out. I found all kinds of things, some I didn't even recognize. What I needed to find was the little metal bushing that goes in the PCV valve so the mounting bolt doesn't crush the plastic eyelet. Set me back half an hour on the PCV replacement job looking for it. Luckily it fell out when I took the plastic cover out.

I did see oil on the topside of the plastic cover, but I haven't found any places on the engine it could have come from. I'm with you on wanting to see any drips on the floor right away. We tiled the garage floor so oil stains on concrete aren't an issue. I may leave the plastic cover off unless I notice ill effects by it not being there anymore.

Oh the PCV was pretty dirty. Didn't rattle when I shook it, so it needed to be replaced.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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PCV valve should be a maintenance item, at the latest at the first timing belt service, and before valve adjustment. Although sometimes tricky to find or to extract without breaking, as the case may be, it's a relatively simple and inexpensive job that can contribute to precluding much worse consequences if not done.

Post a pic of your naked undercarriage. (OK, that didn't come out right.)
 

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There are a few places that you may want to look for leaks. See this yt video:


Namely, oil pressure/spool valve/vvt solenoid gasket -- all close to the oil filter housing; valve cover gasket; camshaft thrust seal gasket; rear main seal gasket.
Never had a problem with Fel Pro tube seals and valve cover gaskets, but if Bundy says dont use them, I won't anymore. Looks like I'll be buying a couple of those O-rings and replace them on my high milage Crosstour.
 

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That would be my cue to recommend the quick, inexpensive and effective solution of AT-205. Worked for me.

More Information for ATP AT205

But don't just take Scotty's and my word for it, FWIW, this time, read some other reviews.

ATP Automotive AT-205 ATP Re-Seal Additive | Summit Racing

Would the 205 work for a super slow leak in the rear main seal?

--Chris N.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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With Scotty
145306
as my witness, yup, it should. After five hours of driving time, you should see results.



Bundy's Garage chimes in, too.

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Replaced the front valve cover seal. Was able to get the bolts out without removing the plenum. The top center one is shorter, so comes out easily. They are a type of shoulder bolt, so when re-installing, just tighten until they STOP, then snug. Unfortunately, this was not the cause of the leak, but thanks to the video here, it was the camshaft cover o-ring. That went just as the video explained. Thanks !
 

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With Scotty View attachment 145306 as my witness, yup, it should. After five hours of driving time, you should see results.



Bundy's Garage chimes in, too.

Lol looks like I'll give it a go. I am very hesitant to use stop-leak products, as normally I think they address symptoms and not the root cause, but for this I know the root cause (failing rear main seal), and there's no way I'm going to replace that when I'm not losing noticable oil between changes.

--Chris N.
 
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