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2004 Honda Pilot 150,000 Miles
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everybody,

First, I would like to thank everybody for all the great advice on this forum. It has helped me get rid of the shudder issues at 32 ish MPH on my 2004 Honda Pilot @ 150k miles.

I was wondering if anyone could provide some input on how bad my common rust issue is? Should I expect failure tomorrow? In a year? Two years?

I appreciate any input. I attached a picture below.

Thanks.

Hand tool Wood Metalworking hand tool Tool Metalworking
 

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I was wondering if anyone could provide some input on how bad my common rust issue is? Should I expect failure tomorrow? In a year? Two years?
View attachment 154725
Check out the multiple threads on subframe rust or subframe repair solutions. IMO the rust on your subframe cross member has compromised the integrity of the rear suspension making the Pilot possibly unsafe to drive as it is unknown when the remaining attachment(s) will fail quietly or catastrophically. It is time to make a decision on whether to make the subframe cross member repairs or unload the vehicle. Your vehicle would not pass a safety inspection in my state. Some members have made impressive diy repairs as finding a mechanic willing or capable of making a proper repair is difficult and costly. Eric-the car guy has a nice video on how he made his repairs on his Pilot that you should check out.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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It's a crossroads for a Pilot of that age in the Rust Belt. Either you throw in the towel and move on, or you tackle it and keep it on the road. So many mixed metaphors, but the gist is don't ignore it any longer.

It can be done.

Fixed Rusted Rear Subframe Mount - with Pics


 

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Banned from wife’s 2005 Pilot LX
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I think @STMech has dealt with this issue as well.
I agree with what the others have said. I don’t think any responsible member on this forum will tell you it’s safe to drive based on the photo you attached.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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I think @STMech has dealt with this issue as well.
Indeed he has, and his fix should most definitely be linked to as well.

 

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Oh yeah, VERY common problem. Welcome to owning a Gen one pilot. Yours is not even as bad as some on here.

As far as the method to fix it, the repairs shown on this forum (using steel plates and a bolt) may or may not pass inspection, if your state requires it. That one you will have to investigate.

Welding in new metal is best but if someone doesn't have the tools or know-how, steel plates it is.

The repair where they take two steel plates, one in the cab and one under the subframe mounting point -
It is not a difficult repair per se but may be really time consuming. I had to drill out the old bolt because even with a vise grip and impact, the old bolt would not budge. That alone took a few hours and a lot of patience. Worst part of the whole job.

If you do have to drill it out (and of course have to drill the hole in each plate) have a couple heavy duty drill bit sets for hard metal. I completely ruined a set of standard Dewalt drill bits in the process. Shoulda bought hard metal bits. Hindsight. Do not forget to have some kind of oil handy for drilling.

For the plates, I went with 5 X 5 X half inch thick instead of quarter thick just to be safe. I also needed a ten inch by 1/2 inch bolt, I do not know how some manage with an eight inch bolt.

Also, for knowing where to drill the hole inside the cab, I had this foot long or so "center punch" that I stuck up from underneath and created a small dent. Make sure though that the plate, once situated, will not get in the way of re-installing the third seat.

You can get the steel plates off ebay, I believe like $7 each?

And while optional, but maybe have a vacuum handy to frequently clean up metal shavings and also clean up under the third seat. Probably be a bunch of dirt and old McDonald's fries since someone's kids probably sat back there.

Eric-the car guy has a nice video on how he made his repairs on his Pilot that you should check out.
I was wondering when Eric was going to find that subframe rust!
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Good, practical description. (y) Got any pics?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for your reply. I have seen the multiple posts on this issue. I was more curious on how much longer the car will last before failure at this rusted point. Seems like there is really no way to give a time estimate (ive seen some way worse than mine). I will probably attempt the steel plates method.
 

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I live in the Midwest. Had a 2004 until a month ago. I climbed underneath to do the rear shocks and was actually alarmed at the amount of rust. Not just surface rust, it was pretty bad. Sold it the next week.
 

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I was more curious on how much longer the car will last before failure at this rusted point. Seems like there is really no way to give a time estimate (ive seen some way worse than mine).
Your conclusion seems correct to me. It might fail tomorrow if you hit a big pothole. Gravity might keep it more or less drive-able for light use for a long time. It's all going to come down to your comfort level with risk.

If mine looked like yours, I'd get rid of it, and I'm pretty into keeping them alive. I'll drive them until the wheels fall off, but putting the wheels back on is a bridge too far.
 

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It looks to me like the only thing holding the subframe to the RACB is hope. It appears to be completely compromised already. In my parts, that would fail inspection.
 

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Got any more rusty spots forming, knock off the loose rust and give it a shot of Rustoleum Rust Reformer. Converts the rust oxide coating into iron tannate with doesn't rust. Has worked wonders on everything I've used it on.
 
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