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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, long time reader/ 1st time poster. I have done a search but I'm still confused and feel like I need some "once and for all" clarification on the front motor mount for an 03 Pilot as mine is in need of replacement.. There are a lot of recommendations on here for the Anchor 9441 aftermarket mount as it is apparently good quality and a fraction of the OEM price. However my original mount does not have the vacuum port on the bottom, and ALL the aftermarket mounts I see including the Anchor have this port. So I have the following questions:
1. Which year models (or drivetrains) used the mount with the port and which did not?
2. Can I still use the Anchor 9441 mount and either cap off or crimp the port? (I read another thread that said this would make the mount run in "wide open throttle" position all the time, which can't be good, but need confirmation that this is true.)
3, If it is not good to use this mount with the vacuum port blocked off, is there a way to retrofit or adapt the vacuum line to the 03 model?

Thank you in advance for any answers anyone can provide!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well I think I might have found the answer to my questions in this thread (was looking in 2003-2008 forum not in the general maintenance):


Guess I'll go with the Anchor mount for much cheaper & just leave the port hanging open. Thanks all!
 

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First thing I would do is check your passenger-side mount, too. If the front one is shot, the side is probably close behind. Save yourself an extra job and do them together.

Regardless, In my opinion, the real question is "what do you want to accomplish?"

If this is a stopgap measure to get another 12 months out of a beater, the downside of using an "almost compatible" part is pretty low. Just buy the cheapest thing you can find and don't worry about it.

If you're looking at long term, the cost differential over the potential life remaining is small. You're unlikely to get an "almost compatible" part to work as designed. I would leave the original in before I replaced it with something that wasn't a direct fit if I wanted to drive the car another 3 years or more.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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used aftermarket Anchor brand from Rock Auto
No I didn't mess with the vacuum port on my Pilot. Works just fine.

Glad you found your answer so quickly. Get them here for cheap.

2003 HONDA PILOT 3.5L V6 Motor Mount | RockAuto


Even a bit cheaper if you use your Piloteers 5% discount.


5% Discount Code: 31517DFA058403
Expires: February 12, 2021


Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear about Us’ box to receive the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other words or numbers. All orders are placed online and the discount code must be entered before an order is submitted to receive the discount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thx Tacoma I am ordering both the front and passenger side mounts. I have no idea how long I'll be keeping this Pilot, probably not too much longer although it drives great and only has 160k on it.
However I asked the specific questions above because there doesn't seem to be a definitive explanation anywhere I could find until I stumbled on the linked thread above. Whether or not Anchor's explanation in that thread is accurate is questionable but the end users in that thread seemed to be completely satisfied using it as a replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I am still curious about which (if any) Pilots used a vacuum-controlled motor mount, any at all or was this just an Odyssey thing as described by Anchor in that linked thread above?
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Thank you for that info PLPL, unfortunately I had already placed the order before I saw your post! :rolleyes::D That's OK though I am sure I will need more parts from RA before February!
IIRC, once when I forgot, I still had time to cancel the order and then reorder and enter my discount code. :)
 

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For as much of a pain the front mount is, I'd use an oem mount. There are too many reviews about how crappy aftermarket mounts are and doing the job twice isn't my thing, especially when it costs me more money to do it twice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
For as much of a pain the front mount is, I'd use an oem mount. There are too many reviews about how crappy aftermarket mounts are and doing the job twice isn't my thing, especially when it costs me more money to do it twice.
Normally I would agree but there are a TON of recommendations on here and other places for the Anchor mount, enough to convince my normally extremely skeptical self to go ahead and try it.
And trust me I know about crappy aftermarket parts, try owning a vintage VW bug with no more OEM parts support and getting ANYTHING aftermarket for those to fit and/or work correctly.
Also the Anchor mount was only $18, got the last one they were offering at a wholesale price. So no biggie if it doesn't work for some reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got the Anchor mounts in this morning, installed the passenger side one with no issues, but the front motor mount has proven to be too much of a challenge-- waaay too restrictive of a space. I see why the service manual calls for dropping the subframe, and I also understand now why no one on youtube has an actual video showing this procedure except one guy who--you guessed it- dropped the subframe.
I reasonably guessed farming this job out would cost $450-$500-- those were my first few quotes-- then, amazingly, I found a local shop willing to do it for $175+tax(!) For that price I'll be more than happy to let someone else suffer. :cool:
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Got the Anchor mounts in this morning, installed the passenger side one with no issues, but the front motor mount has proven to be too much of a challenge-- waaay too restrictive of a space. I see why the service manual calls for dropping the subframe, and I also understand now why no one on youtube has an actual video showing this procedure except one guy who--you guessed it- dropped the subframe.
I reasonably guessed farming this job out would cost $450-$500-- those were my first few quotes-- then, amazingly, I found a local shop willing to do it for $175+tax(!) For that price I'll be more than happy to let someone else suffer. :cool:
Quick, before he comes to his senses. That's a pretty good deal.
143083
 

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If the 2003 and 2005 are comparable the subframe doesn’t need to be dropped. I think did the following a few winters ago:
1) Jacked up engine at oil pan (with 2x4 to distribute the load)
2) Jacked up tranny with second floor Jack (also with 2x4 to distribute load)
3) Removed the rubber dampener on the subframe. It’s next to the front motor mount.
4) Removed three bolts on engine block bracket at motor mount top.
5) Removed 4 motor mount bolts.
6) It fit out the top. I recall having to squeeze it by the radiator hoses and there being very little clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If the 2003 and 2005 are comparable the subframe doesn’t need to be dropped. I think did the following a few winters ago:
1) Jacked up engine at oil pan (with 2x4 to distribute the load)
2) Jacked up tranny with second floor Jack (also with 2x4 to distribute load)
3) Removed the rubber dampener on the subframe. It’s next to the front motor mount.
4) Removed three bolts on engine block bracket at motor mount top.
5) Removed 4 motor mount bolts.
6) It fit out the top. I recall having to squeeze it by the radiator hoses and there being very little clearance.
Yes it's the same, I understood the procedure to do it- just getting to those bolts holding it to the subframe and ESP. the bolts holding the bracket were not possible, too tight and no room to use a box wrench and tucked under the block where you'd have to use a wobble socket which I didn't have and didn't want to mess with it. Nor did I have an impact, probably what everyone has used to do this job.
If everyone had quoted me $400-$500 to do the job I probably would have looked into doing it myself a bit more but when I found the shop willing to do it for $175 I said screw it. :p
 

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Are they done yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah only took the shop a couple hours with the right tools and a lift. Total with tax $194, not too bad... until I consider the fact that the shop said the old one wasn't in too bad shape... :rolleyes: Oh well can't dwell!!!
 

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Yeah only took the shop a couple hours with the right tools and a lift. Total with tax $194, not too bad... until I consider the fact that the shop said the old one wasn't in too bad shape... :rolleyes: Oh well can't dwell!!!
In hindsight if I was quoted $200 for the front motor mount I probably would have paid to have it done. But the quote I got from the dealer was 3x that which made for great self-motivation.
Glad to hear you got it fixed for the amount quoted.
 

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Yeah only took the shop a couple hours with the right tools and a lift. Total with tax $194, not too bad... until I consider the fact that the shop said the old one wasn't in too bad shape... :rolleyes: Oh well can't dwell!!!
Seems like a fair and acceptable outcome. One more thing to cross off your "I have a nagging concern about" list.
 
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