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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, first post...Have a 2003 EX 4wd that my boy and I are doing some updating on together. Just replaced the rear springs with moog springs a couple days ago. Went out to check them today and the springs have pushed the upper spring isolator out of place in areas. In one section of the isolator, the spring has pushed/folded the isolator into the middle of the spring. Basically, the spring is no longer seated correctly in the isolator. It was a real pain lining up the upper and lower isolators when installing the spring, so our solution was to lubricate the upper with silicone so that we could position it more easily. Not sure if that lubrication also made it so the spring could work sections of the isolator out of position?

Anyways, anyone else deal with this with moog springs? Any polyurethane isolators out there to recommend?

Thanks!
 

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Noticed the same issue after replacing my rear springs. The old upper isolators were deformed and the lower isolators were cracked or cracking. New isolators upper+lower took care of the issue.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Before they're too far gone, give them a spritz with AT-205. :)

 

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I just did mine last week, MOOG coils.... I wanna bet they weren't seated properly when you installed. I spent hrs getting them straight and found a little trick. While holding the lower arm down with your foot place the coil in but don't line it up straight, set it on a slight angle against the bump in lower arm. When you compress with jack it should line up correctly. I placed the upper coil seat on before jamming the coil in then make sure it's even around that top housing. All even and at a slight angle your ready to compress. The coil will pop into the depression of the lower arm as you jack it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Beachbuggy, so basically what I did was seat the bottoms first, then try to get the tops seated correctly as I raised the arm, and what you did was seat the tops first, then let the bottoms seat as you raised the arm? Thanks for the info, and glad the isolators do work with these springs if they are done correctly!
 

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Yes sir, I wrestled with the damn thing all day until I figured that out. Just make sure the tab that meets with the end of coil spring on top is butt up against it, it likes to move when your wrestling. I also found it easiest when the bottom coil end was in the area of back lower arm where that drain hole is. Coulda just been the shape of my coils but that's how it was on both sides..... Any other questions as you work on the suspension I'm here, just re-did mine completely front and back. Had every nightmare issue that can/will hold you up so I can help you avoid those lol. Or at least tell you what to expect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Awesome, again, thanks for the info...just re-ordered new upper insulators as I am sure the new ones I put in the first time are permanently deformed as this point. Replaced the sway bar links as well. That was a fun job after 17 years of rust. Boy and I going to do some work on the front next. Might just do the struts and the sway bar links up front. If you have helpful info from your experience, would love to hear it. Am planning on using complete kyb or maybe moog struts as a replacement. Seems like people like kyb?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
forgot about the front lower control arms as well due to all of the bushings wearing out
 

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I did KYB all the way around but they did send me a strut that the boot was upside down so check everything thoroughly. Struts and shocks are simple. The sway bar links, save yourself the time and just go right for the dremel or wiz tool. They are gonna spin and it's a nightmare to try and use the pliers. Make your cut in the bar up top so you have some leverage to rip it off the bottom ball. Fronts I actually couldn't do that without bending the sway bar too much so I dremeled the bolt off.
 

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If your gonna do bushings and ball joints up front just get a control arm with everything already installed. I bought a 12 ton harbor freight press and still couldn't pull the small bushing, the bend makes it difficult. The ball joints are also pressed in. Not terribly hard but again, with the bend it's harder even with the press. Just get the whole unit, you'll pull it and install in under 15min rather than wrestling with the press which can take 30min to an hr each side.
 
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