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Does anyone know what the PID is for the 20 Pilots? I have tried the 22-2201 that is reported for what appears to be Gen2 and early Gen3 models but it is not pulling data on the 20? I plan on towing and want to be able to monitor AT temperatures. Alternatively does anyone recommend an aftermarket temp sensor?
 

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This is a long shot, but the Gen 2 Ridgelines use the following (Gen 2 Ridgelines currently use a 6AT)

OBD2 Mode and PID: 222201
Long Name: Transmission Temp F
Short Name: ATF Temp
Minimum value: -40
Maximum value: 300
Scale factor: x1
Equation: AA*(9/5)-40
Overrides PID: "Does not override any PIDs"

Do you have the 9AT or the 6AT?
 

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Figured it out! Changed type from ECM to ALL and voila! Anyone know where the AT temp sensor is located in the AT loop?

This is from the 2016 service manual but should be the same?

133955
 

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That's good so its measuring temp in the sump. Below are screenshots of my settings. Using OBD Fusion
Good to know its reading from the sump. I’m using a Veepeak OBD BLE paired with the ELM OBD Car Scanner. The ATF sensor displays for variable 2 after selecting the OBD-II/EOBD+AT (CAN). However the readings are seeming very low. After about 10 mins of idol and 5 mins of driving the ATF barely cracked 100F. Does this seem right?

145353
 

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2016 EXL AWD Nav with sensing , 2008 Corolla SE
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Good to know its reading from the sump. I’m using a Veepeak OBD BLE paired with the ELM OBD Car Scanner. The ATF sensor displays for variable 2 after selecting the OBD-II/EOBD+AT (CAN). However the readings are seeming very low. After about 10 mins of idol and 5 mins of driving the ATF barely cracked 100F. Does this seem right?

View attachment 145353
Looks like the trans temp is reading in °C . There is a *9/5 -40 conversion to convert the signal shown in post#2
 

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Looks like the trans temp is reading in °C . There is a *9/5 -40 conversion to convert the signal shown in post#2
No way! That would be 212F.

@jprince103 Where do you live? If you're in the polar vortex right now then 100F is probably right for 5 min of driving. I find in winter (below freezing here) it takes my entire 25 min commute to come up to normal operating temps.
 

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Looks like the trans temp is reading in °C . There is a *9/5 -40 conversion to convert the signal shown in post#2
No way! That would be 212F.

@jprince103 Where do you live? If you're in the polar vortex right now then 100F is probably right for 5 min of driving. I find in winter (below freezing here) it takes my entire 25 min commute to come up to normal operating temps.
Im in Vancouver, was ambient air temperature of 35F outside.
 

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No way! That would be 212F.

@jprince103 Where do you live? If you're in the polar vortex right now then 100F is probably right for 5 min of driving. I find in winter (below freezing here) it takes my entire 25 min commute to come up to normal operating temps.
93*9/5 -40= 128 by my calc.which seems more in line. I would check the calculation that the app is using just to make sure.
128 F is not unreasonable for transmission fluid after a few mins of driving.
 

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Im in Vancouver, was ambient air temperature of 35F outside.
An easy way to check the accuracy would be to check the transmission temp before you start the car in the morning and it should match ambient air temp if the calc is right.
 

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93*9/5 -40= 128 by my calc.which seems more in line. I would check the calculation that the app is using just to make sure.
128 F is not unreasonable for transmission fluid after a few mins of driving.
Yeah it might be in accurately labeled as F but you have to use the cal to find the true temp. I drove around for about an hour, mostly city driving and it never got above 135. I have the ATF cooler on the vehicle. It can’t be C, but the 9/5-40 conversion would equate to 203F which honestly is a little higher than I expected. I guess I’ll wait and see when I pull my travel trailer next weekend. By my calc.....180 would be 284F with that conversion....which I believe would be trigger the transmission light to come on.
 

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Yeah it might be in accurately labeled as F but you have to use the cal to find the true temp. I drove around for about an hour, mostly city driving and it never got above 135. I have the ATF cooler on the vehicle. It can’t be C, but the 9/5-40 conversion would equate to 203F which honestly is a little higher than I expected. I guess I’ll wait and see when I pull my travel trailer next weekend. By my calc.....180 would be 284F with that conversion....which I believe would be trigger the transmission light to come on.
I would think that the transmission temp would settle out around 160-170°F in normal driving unless you have a huge aftermarket transmission cooler. Might be a little lower in really cold weather though but I think that 135°F is a bit too low.
 

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Try blocking your ATF cooler to bring the temps up. 135 after an hour is very low. In 20 degree ambient temps I can manage about 150-155 after 30 min of driving, but I've got the whole cooler taped over for the winter.
 

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93*9/5 -40= 128 by my calc.which seems more in line. I would check the calculation that the app is using just to make sure.
128 F is not unreasonable for transmission fluid after a few mins of driving.
93C = 199.4F. F = C*9/5+32. I always check the formula by remembering 0C = 32F and 100C = 212F. 93F sounds normal for a 5 min drive after an overnight cold soak in the winter.
 

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93C = 199.4F. F = C*9/5+32. I always check the formula by remembering 0C = 32F and 100C = 212F. 93F sounds normal for a 5 min drive after an overnight cold soak in the winter.
You are right, that is the °C to °F conversion but the mystery here is converting the PID sensor value to a °F temp which uses that other equation. I know in Torque pro you can enter custom PID's and you use the formula in post#2 to convert whatever Honda uses to °F. There are a number of other apps out there and I don't know what conversion factors they use or how to check. To me there is no point monitoring something if the readings are not accurate. I still think the best way would be to install an independent temp sensor and matching gauge.
 

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Doesn’t the dealership use the OBDII port to monitor thru? I miss monitoring ECT via a ScanGauge after installing a VCMTuner II. A temp sending unit mounted in the top radiator hose would solve that issue.
 
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