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Discussion Starter #1
I'd sure like to have one of the cigarette lighter outlets (is that what they're called now?) hot even when the ignition is off.

Lots of times I'll charge my cell phone in the car and I'm in and out. Sometimes I'd like to leave it charging when I run into a store for 10 minutes... but since I know it's not charging, I'll disconnect it and take it with me. All this connect and disconnect, charging then not charging...

Anyone know of an easy way to make one hot all the time? Ideally, it would be the one in the console, although I have a good need for making the one on the dash hot, too.

I guess I could get a wiring diagram and splice the wire into a hot one, but hopefully someone has done that work for me already. :)
 

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Sorry I don't know the direct answer to your question but I noticed something new to me today regarding the power. The power seat is always powered even when the car is off. I didn't know this for the last four and half months of my Pilot life.
 

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tak said:
Sorry I don't know the direct answer to your question but I noticed something new to me today regarding the power. The power seat is always powered even when the car is off. I didn't know this for the last four and half months of my Pilot life.
That way when you drop off your other half to run in for two minutes to pick something up you can turn off the engine and recline the seat to take a 1/2 hour nap. :D
 

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tak said:
Sorry I don't know the direct answer to your question but I noticed something new to me today regarding the power. The power seat is always powered even when the car is off. I didn't know this for the last four and half months of my Pilot life.
Most cars (at least in my experiance) are like that.
Can imagin if they were not, and the last person to drive was 4'6" and 85lb, and a 5"11, 220 Lb person tried to get in! :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
tak said:
Sorry I don't know the direct answer to your question but I noticed something new to me today regarding the power. The power seat is always powered even when the car is off. I didn't know this for the last four and half months of my Pilot life.
Hmmm... good point. Maybe I can tap into that.

Thanks
 

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My salesman told me the front power outlet was hot at all time, so that if I left my cell phone plugged in while I went into a store the phone would charge while I'm away.

However looking at the owners manual and reading your posts, I can see this is not true after all! :) Oh well... Another case of misinformation from the dealer. :(
 

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Here's the circuit diagram of cigarette lighter adapter (or accessory power socket according to service manual).



As you can see from the diagram, two relays control two sockets each. The coil voltage for both relays goes through Fuse No. 8 (7.5A). Although it's possible to separate the relays, the simplest way is to remove Fuse No. 8, find a hot wire, then connect it to Fuse No. 8 holder, the side that goes to relays. That will make ALL power sockets HOT including audio system, RES, Nav etc.
 

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PatrickC1026 said:
Here's the circuit diagram of cigarette lighter adapter (or accessory power socket according to service manual).
. .

As you can see from the diagram, two relays control two sockets each. The coil voltage for both relays goes through Fuse No. 8 (7.5A). Although it's possible to separate the relays, the simplest way is to remove Fuse No. 8, find a hot wire, then connect it to Fuse No. 8 holder, the side that goes to relays. That will make ALL power sockets HOT including audio system, RES, Nav etc.
Then you have to shut EVERYTHING off by hand every time you shut off the car.
 

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By the diagram posted by PatrickC1026, one can come up with a mods of the two rear power outlets to make it hot and leave the two front outlets alone.

-john
 

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N_Jay said:


Then you have to shut EVERYTHING off by hand every time you shut off the car.
Not only that the relay coils being powered up all the time will drain the battery whether or not the sockets are being used.


How about a location on that rear power socket relay? If I can find it, I'll remove it and jumper the contact side to provide power to two of the outlets all the time, without relay coil drain.
 

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AlH,
I just did mine last weekend. The relay isn't EASY to get too, but it's not that difficult either. If you lie on your back in front of the driver's seat with your head at the pedals, you'll see the fuse block to your immediate right. The relay is one of a group of 4 relays that is mounted on a metal bracket directly above the fuse block. On my '04 EX-L -- yours MIGHT be different -- it was the relay closest to the engine and on the left side of the car. (From your perspective on the floor, it's the rightmost one of the two relays closest to the pedals.)

The relay was a very tight fit, and I had to convince myself that I wasn't missing some type of locking mechanism before I took a small screwdriver and levered it out of its socket. (Be careful, one of those leads is hot, remember?!!!) After that, it's 2 spade connectors and a 2" piece of wire replacement for the relay.

Good luck and have fun!
Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #12
calpos said:
AlH,
I just did mine last weekend. The relay isn't EASY to get too, but it's not that difficult either. If you lie on your back in front of the driver's seat with your head at the pedals, you'll see the fuse block to your immediate right. The relay is one of a group of 4 relays that is mounted on a metal bracket directly above the fuse block. On my '04 EX-L -- yours MIGHT be different -- it was the relay closest to the engine and on the left side of the car. (From your perspective on the floor, it's the rightmost one of the two relays closest to the pedals.)

The relay was a very tight fit, and I had to convince myself that I wasn't missing some type of locking mechanism before I took a small screwdriver and levered it out of its socket. (Be careful, one of those leads is hot, remember?!!!) After that, it's 2 spade connectors and a 2" piece of wire replacement for the relay.

Good luck and have fun!
Brian
So, this gave you power to the rear outlets all the time? What did you tie the 2" wire into? How did you know which wire?
 

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The way calpos powered the two rear power outlets is he bypassed the relay by connecting the BLU/ORN wire with the ORN wire using a 2" wire jumper with spade connector at both ends.

-john
 

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N_Jay said:


Then you have to shut EVERYTHING off by hand every time you shut off the car.
It's true for those of you who leave the stereo and/or RES, Nav etc. even after you shut the engine off. For me, I have a habit of turning everything off befoe I shut off the engine.

Anyway, I posted the diagram as a reference, but there are many ways depending on what someone wants.
 

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AlH said:


Not only that the relay coils being powered up all the time will drain the battery whether or not the sockets are being used.


How about a location on that rear power socket relay? If I can find it, I'll remove it and jumper the contact side to provide power to two of the outlets all the time, without relay coil drain.
Again, I posted the diagram as a reference. Of course bypassing the relay is the better option.

By the way, relay coils don't drain power much. Even a heavy duty 10A relays draw about 50mA.
 

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I guess most of us would like to have the dash and front console sockets hot instead of the two in the rear. It's too bad that the dash and front console sockets are tied to audio/Nav/RES.
 

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Would it be correct to say that jumpering the hot leads around the relays is a relatively minor operation and quite safe/acceptible for the vehicle?

I don't have NAV/RES, and in addition to wanting the outlets available as noted by others, there are also times I really would like the radio on after I take out the key... so I would prefer to make it all hot.

Anything I should be aware of before performing this operation? A certain type of connector (spade) was mentioned above. Pardon my ignorance, but is that a specialized approach I should take?

Thanks for the guidance - I look forward to doing this project!
 

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john802 said:
The way calpos powered the two rear power outlets is he bypassed the relay by connecting the BLU/ORN wire with the ORN wire using a 2" wire jumper with spade connector at both ends.

-john
Thanks John, and ClayDoh44 that's exactly what you need to do.

It's hard (impossible?) to see where the two spade connectors need to go, but use the relay as a guide to the proper location and orientation. There will be two large spade connectors coming out of the relay, running parallel to each other, and two small ones doing the same. You want to jumper between the two large connectors, which run parallel with the axis of the car.

Keep the relay, and if you have an electrical problem in the future make sure to reinstall it before going in for warranty repairs! :eek:
 

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calbear said:
Would it be correct to say that jumpering the hot leads around the relays is a relatively minor operation and quite safe/acceptible for the vehicle?

I don't have NAV/RES, and in addition to wanting the outlets available as noted by others, there are also times I really would like the radio on after I take out the key... so I would prefer to make it all hot.

Anything I should be aware of before performing this operation? A certain type of connector (spade) was mentioned above. Pardon my ignorance, but is that a specialized approach I should take?

Thanks for the guidance - I look forward to doing this project!
Once you determine which relay you are by passing and which wire is hot, make sure to disconnect the battery to prevent short circuit before doing any Mods.

-john
 

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calpos said:


Thanks John, and ClayDoh44 that's exactly what you need to do.

It's hard (impossible?) to see where the two spade connectors need to go, but use the relay as a guide to the proper location and orientation. There will be two large spade connectors coming out of the relay, running parallel to each other, and two small ones doing the same. You want to jumper between the two large connectors, which run parallel with the axis of the car.

Keep the relay, and if you have an electrical problem in the future make sure to reinstall it before going in for warranty repairs! :eek:
So you have to remove the relay? Is it not possible just to leave it in place and to jumper the leads. Or are the leads buried in such a way into the relay such that you can't otherwise jump it... Need to check this all out visually. :) I assume if one could leave the relay that there'd be no harm having the flow side already connected -- it's isolated from the actuator side anyway...

And good point regarding disconnecting the battery. Also, that means doing the transmission idle, radio code and window learn again... (I remember these things from all my reading here. :D )
 
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