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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 2015 ex-l ... and the low gas mileage is kind of a shock, it only has 53k miles,

Any advice to improve this?

is the fuel to air mixture off?

it says 17 to 24 when I look it up, or is that a pipe dream lol
 

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My 2013 EX consistently averages 17-18. Long trips (mostly highways) are more like 20-21. And I got VCM disabler in, so I never see the 'ECO' light.
 

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I have a 2015 Touring and I average 20-24 mixed driving. I have a K&N air filter and I've seen my gas mileage dip down to 17-19 when I have refueled. So it might just be a bad tank of gas. Also, if you are not doing it, reset your trip whenever you get gas. The mpg is calculated off of the trip and off of your driving style. So if the trip has 10,000 miles on it for example, the display will show the average gas mileage for the last 10,000 miles instead of just what it was on the tank of gas you just used. The best I have ever achieved with my pilot was 34 mpg and that was all highway driving.
 

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I have a 2012 EX with 140K that recently went from 16mpg to 13mpg. Style of driving hasn’t changed.

Tire pressure is perfect.
Brand new OEM spark plugs.
Brand new OEM air filter.
Cleaned MAF sensor.
Added Techron fuel injector cleaner.

Only things I can think of are:
Thermostat stuck open.
Bad O2 sensor.

I would expect a check engine light for one of those, but there is nothing.

Any other ideas?
 

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I have a 2012 EX with 140K that recently went from 16mpg to 13mpg. Style of driving hasn’t changed.

Tire pressure is perfect.
Brand new OEM spark plugs.
Brand new OEM air filter.
Cleaned MAF sensor.
Added Techron fuel injector cleaner.

Only things I can think of are:
Thermostat stuck open.
Bad O2 sensor.

I would expect a check engine light for one of those, but there is nothing.

Any other ideas?
The things you did above are essential. Also check for a cracked intake tube. This can crack when we handle them when changing the air filter.
Has your PCV valve ever been replaced? One that is stuck can effect vacuum, creating a rich or lean condition.
I'm for disabling the VCM. Honda created the system to save fuel. But in the long run, a dirty engine with fouled spark plugs, dirty valves and injectors, clogged cats and EGR valve = poor fuel economy.
 

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The things you did above are essential. Also check for a cracked intake tube. This can crack when we handle them when changing the air filter.
Has your PCV valve ever been replaced? One that is stuck can effect vacuum, creating a rich or lean condition.
....
Thank you for the advice.

I replaced the PCV valve at 109K, but will give the current one a shake to see if it still rattles.

Agree about VCM Muzzler. I installed one at 100K.

Will look for a vacuum leak on the intake.
 

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it says 17 to 24 when I look it up, or is that a pipe dream lol
After 16 years I’m still waiting to see 24 mpg LOL. My best has been around 21 mpg fully loaded straight run trip @80mph :p going North to the Canadian border average 16-18 mpg commute. Beautiful views of Niagara Falls and the Canadian capital.
 

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Ours is a 2011 Touring at 151K, we've owned it since 32k. Pittsburgh is very hilly and we typically only see 13-15 MPG with regular around town driving (suburban, quite hilly, a little highway time). Highway trips can be between 18-21 though (we both have a heavy foot). Regular maintenance is always done (regular fluid changes, PCV replaced at 125k, VCM disabler, MAF cleaning, filters changed, various fuel injector cleaners). I have not checked for a leaky air tube though. I think I will try that.

Maybe try the old 2x4 under the gas pedal trick. ;)
 

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Another thing to check: Sticky Caliper pins:
Jack up the car one wheel at a time (with chocks) and see if each wheel spins freely. Pilot will need to be in neutral for the front tires to spin.

Here is my real fear. VCM was disabled too late and the piston rings were damaged.
"If you are driving a high mileage vehicle (over 100,000 miles), you may be getting poor fuel economy because your engine does not have the compression it once had. As the miles add up, so does the wear on the piston rings and valves. This can result in a gradual loss of compression that reduces engine efficiency and fuel economy."
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have a 2015 Touring and I average 20-24 mixed driving. I have a K&N air filter and I've seen my gas mileage dip down to 17-19 when I have refueled. So it might just be a bad tank of gas. Also, if you are not doing it, reset your trip whenever you get gas. The mpg is calculated off of the trip and off of your driving style. So if the trip has 10,000 miles on it for example, the display will show the average gas mileage for the last 10,000 miles instead of just what it was on the tank of gas you just used. The best I have ever achieved with my pilot was 34 mpg and that was all highway driving.
that makes me think something is definitely wrong with mine
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Another thing to check: Sticky Caliper pins:
Jack up the car one wheel at a time (with chocks) and see if each wheel spins freely. Pilot will need to be in neutral for the front tires to spin.

Here is my real fear. VCM was disabled too late and the piston rings were damaged.
"If you are driving a high mileage vehicle (over 100,000 miles), you may be getting poor fuel economy because your engine does not have the compression it once had. As the miles add up, so does the wear on the piston rings and valves. This can result in a gradual loss of compression that reduces engine efficiency and fuel economy."
only has 53k miles
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have a 2015 Touring and I average 20-24 mixed driving. I have a K&N air filter and I've seen my gas mileage dip down to 17-19 when I have refueled. So it might just be a bad tank of gas. Also, if you are not doing it, reset your trip whenever you get gas. The mpg is calculated off of the trip and off of your driving style. So if the trip has 10,000 miles on it for example, the display will show the average gas mileage for the last 10,000 miles instead of just what it was on the tank of gas you just used. The best I have ever achieved with my pilot was 34 mpg and that was all highway driving.
did the K&N filer do anything as far as increasing your gas mileage ? I always reset. any ideas as to why mine is soooo low?
 

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Have the compression checked on all 6 cylinders, to see if piston rings are not sealing, or if you have burnt exhaust valves. If the engine checks out ok, then perhaps you have bad cat converters that are restricting the exhaust. I'm assuming that the air filter is clean.

An engine is a pump. If the seals are good (valves and rings), then check for intake and exhaust restrictions.

If the valves and rings are good, and there are no exhaust restrictions (bad cat converter), then we are looking at the operational control systems: bad coolant temp sensor will tell the ECU to keep engine in open loop, rich fuel mix mode. Lots of other sensors telling the ECU what to do. Something else could be screwed up.

Maybe you need to find a good mech with Honda compatible diagnostic tools to check your car out properly. I know, the advice here is free, but sometimes, free advice is only only worth what you paid for it.
 

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After 16 years I’m still waiting to see 24 mpg LOL. My best has been around 21 mpg fully loaded straight run trip @80mph :p going North to the Canadian border average 16-18 mpg commute. Beautiful views of Niagara Falls and the Canadian capital.
My mom's first gen would barely crack 20 on highway trips. Our 2nd gen (and my Traverse) will both get around 24. Throw the cargo box on the roof and I'm 21-22. It's amazing how something so big and with AWD can get such good mileage. My dad's Yukon XL Denali (6.2, full time 4WD) got 16.5 from MD to Orlando, all highway, all premium fuel.

Have the compression checked on all 6 cylinders, to see if piston rings are not sealing, or if you have burnt exhaust valves. If the engine checks out ok, then perhaps you have bad cat converters that are restricting the exhaust. I'm assuming that the air filter is clean.

An engine is a pump. If the seals are good (valves and rings), then check for intake and exhaust restrictions.

If the valves and rings are good, and there are no exhaust restrictions (bad cat converter), then we are looking at the operational control systems: bad coolant temp sensor will tell the ECU to keep engine in open loop, rich fuel mix mode. Lots of other sensors telling the ECU what to do. Something else could be screwed up.

Maybe you need to find a good mech with Honda compatible diagnostic tools to check your car out properly. I know, the advice here is free, but sometimes, free advice is only only worth what you paid for it.
Couldn't agree more with this. Unless you are skilled at diagnosing problems and have the proper equipment, test the easy things and move on to a professional. I am really good at replacing parts but that's pretty easy when the computer tells me the code and I know what to replace. I'm not a fan of replacing parts to see if they were the problem.

The trouble is, most people have not found a mechanic they can trust. I've been fortunate but I've also had very few issues I couldn't remedy and when I couldn't I knew what the issue was and what the cost should be for it.
 

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Around town those are close numbers to be .. on the Highway with the proper tires not the rugged off road looking ones some of us have installed..you may get 21-24 also keep off being a led foot. Engine Air filter, odd ball things may need to be swapped out .

After 16 years ..this must be a Gen 1 Pilot ..you can't even come close to the mileage you may get in the gen 2 ..the gen 3's those mini vans ? good luck on those :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well it is still under warranty from the dealership I bought it from, for 30 days or 1,000 miles, but it closed the day after I bought it, Covid positive I guess, so it’s closed for 2 weeks, so I wait, and just don’t drive it much, thankfully I never went in dealership, did everything from my car. So at least I don’t have that worry too. ***One other thing it clunks bad if parked on a hill, when you put it in D. Thoughts???
 

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Ugh
Well it is still under warranty from the dealership I bought it from, for 30 days or 1,000 miles, but it closed the day after I bought it, Covid positive I guess, so it’s closed for 2 weeks, so I wait, and just don’t drive it much, thankfully I never went in dealership, did everything from my car. So at least I don’t have that worry too. ***One other thing it clunks bad if parked on a hill, when you put it in D. Thoughts???
So this was a online used vehicle purchase without a test drive from a non-Honda dealer? Depending upon your skill set perhaps get the vehicle checked out. The clunks can occur after parking on a hill when shifting out of Park. Next time try to apply the parking brakes if parking on steep inclines or declines as it could reduce the occurrence. The low mpg you’re experiencing could be due to lack of maintenance upwards toward more significant issues.
 

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Does the dealer have a built in service area or are they a sales only type of lot? This factors into your next steps.

Regarding the "clunk"... let me bring you to the first lesson I had the first time I ever drove:

When parking on anything other than a flat surface:

  1. Bring the vehicle to a stop using the brakes.
  2. Engage the parking brake.
  3. Place the vehicle in neutral and ease off the brakes until the vehicle stops shifting.
    1. If the vehicle continues to move you need to engage the parking brake further or adjust it so it holds the vehicle.
  4. Place the vehicle in park. All of the weight of the vehicle is being held by the parking brake.
  5. When you go to leave, shift out of park BEFORE removing the parking brake.

This sounds obvious but almost everyone I drive with does not follow this procedure and complains about the noise and clunks when shifting out of park.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ugh

So this was a online used vehicle purchase without a test drive from a non-Honda dealer? Depending upon your skill set perhaps get the vehicle checked out. The clunks can occur after parking on a hill when shifting out of Park. Next time try to apply the parking brakes if parking on steep inclines or declines as it could reduce the occurrence. The low mpg you’re experiencing could be due to lack of maintenance upwards toward more significant issues.
no I bought it in person, i drove it, i bought it in person,
Does the dealer have a built in service area or are they a sales only type of lot? This factors into your next steps.

Regarding the "clunk"... let me bring you to the first lesson I had the first time I ever drove:

When parking on anything other than a flat surface:

  1. Bring the vehicle to a stop using the brakes.
  2. Engage the parking brake.
  3. Place the vehicle in neutral and ease off the brakes until the vehicle stops shifting.
    1. If the vehicle continues to move you need to engage the parking brake further or adjust it so it holds the vehicle.
  4. Place the vehicle in park. All of the weight of the vehicle is being held by the parking brake.
  5. When you go to leave, shift out of park BEFORE removing the parking brake.
This sounds obvious but almost everyone I drive with does not follow this procedure and complains about the noise and clunks when shifting out of park.
ok seems a bit extreme, to pick up something at the drive thru lol but apparently i bought a touchy little baby based on what I’m reading, so disappointed in honda ugh
 
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