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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First here is a video I took of the issue. This is the first time ever having a check engine light with the pilot, I've always done my own servicing and keep up with regular oil changes.


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Had this issue pop up with my pilot took a video to share and see if anyone can point me in the right direction. Few days ago changed the engine oil, transmission fluid and vtm-4 fluid.

Upon change the fluid I started the car to warm up and check the tranny level as per the manual and noticed right away the car was running strange maybe a misfire and the exhaust smelt different but it went away after a minute or so.

Only thing I could think of was that I used a full synthetic oil for the first time.

Flash to today leaving work and the car starts bogging down and I get a flashing check engine like and should vtm-4 light come on, runs normal untiI I stop and go then it's sluggish. here is a video of the lights coming on about when the car starts to warm up.

Tomorrow I'm going to have a better look and read any codes, from what Ive read I should check the plugs which were changed by me at 100k I'm now at 138k, as well as check the EGR ports and pcm valve. Should i drain the oil and put back what i have always used "high mileage synthetic blend"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you ever checked/adjusted the valve clearance?
No valves have never been adjusted, I could check them tomorrow I suppose, but will check other things first
 

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Did you do any cleaning while doing the work? Such as spraying water inside the engine bay? That is a no-no in my opinion. Water and electronics are a risky combination.
 

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Not seeing the videos alluded to. Upload them to YouTube, then simply paste the URL here.

Assuming you put all the right fluids in all the right holes (hey, everyone gets distracted once in a while), the next thing you should do is get your codes read. Most US auto parts chain stores do it for free, but in Canada I'm not even sure Canadian Tire does it. Not that I would get my Pilot fixed there afterwards, if I were you. A simple OBD2 Bluetooth dongle and the Torque app on your phone will at least give you generic codes. If you need Honda-specific codes beyond that, instead of paying a dealership $90 + taxes, get a Foxwell NT630 Plus scan tool for about the same amount if you or a friend doesn't have one.


Post your codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you do any cleaning while doing the work? Such as spraying water inside the engine bay? That is a no-no in my opinion. Water and electronics are a risky combination.
No
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
First here is a video I took of the issue. This is the first time ever having a check engine light with the pilot, I've always done my own servicing and keep up with regular oil changes.


Description:
Had this issue pop up with my pilot took a video to share and see if anyone can point me in the right direction. Few days ago changed the engine oil, transmission fluid and vtm-4 fluid.

Upon change the fluid I started the car to warm up and check the tranny level as per the manual and noticed right away the car was running strange maybe a misfire and the exhaust smelt different but it went away after a minute or so.

Only thing I could think of was that I used a full synthetic oil for the first time.

Flash to today leaving work and the car starts bogging down and I get a flashing check engine like and should vtm-4 light come on, runs normal untiI I stop and go then it's sluggish. here is a video of the lights coming on about when the car starts to warm up.

Tomorrow I'm going to have a better look and read any codes, from what Ive read I should check the plugs which were changed by me at 100k I'm now at 138k, as well as check the EGR ports and pcm valve. Should i drain the oil and put back what i have always used "high mileage synthetic blend"?
Video link
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not seeing the videos alluded to. Upload them to YouTube, then simply paste the URL here.

Assuming you put all the right fluids in all the right holes (hey, everyone gets distracted once in a while), the next thing you should do is get your codes read. Most US auto parts chain stores do it for free, but in Canada I'm not even sure Canadian Tire does it. Not that I would get my Pilot fixed there afterwards, if I were you. A simple OBD2 Bluetooth dongle and the Torque app on your phone will at least give you generic codes. If you need Honda-specific codes beyond that, instead of paying a dealership $90 + taxes, get a Foxwell NT630 Plus scan tool for about the same amount if you or a friend doesn't have one.


Post your codes.
Post video below, I have a generic code reader I'm going to have a look at today. I'll keep the thread posted
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've also heard this but not 100%. I just find it so strange that it ran funny as soon as I was done the oil, could be a coincidence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Alright folks, first thing i did was hook up my scan tool. I had a misfire cylinder 4 code.
Popped the hood and went to check that plug, sure enough oil in the tube.

Here is my theory after digging into it. Cylinder 4 and 6 has had bad tube seals for a while as seen in the photos at the top of the tubes the outer ones (4,6) look shitty compared to the middle one which had a good seal. So by switching to a full synthetic oil it made these shitty seals known by blowing past them them which is what I have always heard about going full synthetic (it doesn't makes the leaks it just exposes them by being a thinner oil and getting past them easily). Not an expert just what I've heard and it makes sense in this context. I went and bought new intake gasket kit and valve cover gasket kit which comes with the tube seals as well as the bolt seals just waiting to them to arrive and hopefully it will all be resolved, I'm also draining the new oil and going back to what i've always used which is Castrol "high mileage synthetic blend".

Also noticed this last time but just see how dirty and shitty the front valves look compared to the rear. Can anyone explain this? I find it so strange it's like night and day difference, last time I had the covers off a few years ago it was the same thing.

One last thing can anyone tell me what is in the box (circled in photo).
 

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Glad to see you're gradually getting to the bottom of this. I can't quite make out what you're asking about in the picture, but I do have a couple of perhaps helpful questions...
  1. Have you ever replaced your PCV valve? If it's not working properly, pressure can build up, as you likely know.
  2. Have you ever cleaned your EGR ports, passages and valve? May as well while you're in there.


The only other 'splanation I have is that your CEL is yelling at you for driving around in Canada in mph and Fahrenheit (a scale invented in Germany in 1724 where zero approximates the temperature produced by mixing equal quantities by weight of snow and common salt) :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Glad to see you're gradually getting to the bottom of this. I can't quite make out what you're asking about in the picture, but I do have a couple of perhaps helpful questions...
  1. Have you ever replaced your PCV valve? If it's not working properly, pressure can build up, as you likely know.
  2. Have you ever cleaned your EGR ports, passages and valve? May as well while you're in there.


The only other 'splanation I have is that your CEL is yelling at you for driving around in Canada in mph and Fahrenheit (a scale invented in Germany in 1724 where zero approximates the temperature produced by mixing equal quantities by weight of snow and common salt) :p
Thanks, hopefully it all works out when its back together. makes sense in my head but I've been humbled before......
Here is another photo different looks at it. seems like some sort of vacuum line and a little black box that looks like it may have a filter maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Glad to see you're gradually getting to the bottom of this. I can't quite make out what you're asking about in the picture, but I do have a couple of perhaps helpful questions...
  1. Have you ever replaced your PCV valve? If it's not working properly, pressure can build up, as you likely know.
  2. Have you ever cleaned your EGR ports, passages and valve? May as well while you're in there.


The only other 'splanation I have is that your CEL is yelling at you for driving around in Canada in mph and Fahrenheit (a scale invented in Germany in 1724 where zero approximates the temperature produced by mixing equal quantities by weight of snow and common salt) :p
Also yes, I have replaced the PVC valve a few years ago, I remember it well because I snapped it in the hole trying to get it out.....EGR ports were pretty clean no clogs.
I have no choice, the car is an import came from NY LOL
 
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Thanks, hopefully it all works out when its back together. makes sense in my head but I've been humbled before......
Here is another photo different looks at it. seems like some sort of vacuum line and a little black box that looks like it may have a filter maybe?
I know there's a transmission breather tube somewhere around there, but I still can't tell for sure from the pictures. Normally, it's in the shape if an inverted J.

A bit to the left of the brake fluid reservoir, there's also a little black box with an open tube sticking out of it. That also should be left alone and not obstructed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got everything put back together, running like a champ, also changed my pcv valve, took it out and it was all clogged up which I think is what is causing the front head to get all gunky compared to the back ones which look really clean (picture above).
 
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PCV FTW (y)

If you can manage to get it out without breaking it, it's an all too often overlooked cheap and easy fix.

 
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