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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys my girlfriend recently bought a 06 pilot 4wd for very cheap knowing it was having an intermittent CEL issue. The seller had just got it smogged so I figured if it was the cat causing the CEL we would have two years to figure out our next move. The CEL has came and gone a few times. Most recently it has been gone but today I was sitting in traffic and the vehicle instantly started running a tiny bit rough barley noticeable if your not looking out for it. When I got home I plugged in the obd2 and it returned p0175 and p0420.

What do you guys recommend when that combination of codes pops up? Is there any chance that the cat is still good and the p0175 is leading to the p0420?

Anyways what do you guys think is going on here. I searched the Internet and came back with a post from this forum with the same year pilot and same codes but there was no replies.

Other parts of the Internet recommended cleaning the MAF, valve adjustment, EGR replacement.

With the p0175 does that mean the o2 sensor is functioning correctly and doing it's job or is that a sign of bad O2 sensor?

Thanks for the help guys, I'm looking forward to your replies.
 

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Mileage?

No MAF on an 06 Pilot.

Yes, it’s possible that these 2 codes are being caused by the same issue.
Yes, there is a chance that the bank 2 catalytic converter can be saved.
I’d get some live data to see what the fuel trims are.
Has the timing belt been changed? It’d be important to know when and if the belt is installed correctly.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mileage?

No MAF on an 06 Pilot.

Yes, it’s possible that these 2 codes are being caused by the same issue.
Yes, there is a chance that the bank 2 catalytic converter can be saved.
I’d get some live data to see what the fuel trims are.
Has the timing belt been changed? It’d be important to know when and if the belt is installed correctly.
Hi, thanks for the reply!

It's got 241,000 miles. I don't think the timing belt has ever been changed atleast not in the past five years.

I'm not very experienced in using my obd2 set up, I don't how to get the fuel trim levels. I'm using cheap Bluetooth adapter and the Torque pro app on android. What parameters are the fuel trim levels? I will do my homework and report back.

Thanks for the help!!
 

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From a DIY prospective, looking for the reliability factor, with a vehicle with that many miles, and if I were going to try to get another 100k miles, I’d be looking at doing a clean sweep of parts through the engine compartment with the eventual replacement of the fuel pump.

The biggest questions of all is.., When was the timing belt water pump job done last and was it done correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
From a DIY prospective, looking for the reliability factor, with a vehicle with that many miles, and if I were going to try to get another 100k miles, I’d be looking at doing a clean sweep of parts through the engine compartment with the eventual replacement of the fuel pump.

The biggest questions of all is.., When was the timing belt water pump job done last and was it done correctly?
I have a feeling the timing belt and water pump have never been replaced.

If I can fix the CEL and rough idle I plan on going threw the vehicle and prepping it for the next 100,00. Do you have any ideas about the fuel trim levels?

Thanks for the help
 

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I have a feeling the timing belt and water pump have never been replaced.

If I can fix the CEL and rough idle I plan on going threw the vehicle and prepping it for the next 100,00. Do you have any ideas about the fuel trim levels?

Thanks for the help
-10 on Long term fuel trim is not normal. Not what I would have expected with a rich condition fault code caused by the O2 sensor.

Id stop everything, even driving it, until I made sure the timing belt isn’t hanging on by a thread.

I’d plan a restoration project
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
-10 on Long term fuel trim is not normal. Not what I would have expected with a rich condition fault code caused by the O2 sensor.

Id stop everything, even driving it, until I made sure the timing belt isn’t hanging on by a thread.

I’d plan a restoration project
Thanks for bringing the timing belt and water pump to my attention, I'm definitely going to get them replaced.

Do you have any suggestions for fixing the P0175, what might be causing the LTFT values to be that negative?

Thanks
 

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Thanks for bringing the timing belt and water pump to my attention, I'm definitely going to get them replaced.

Do you have any suggestions for fixing the P0175, what might be causing the LTFT values to be that negative?

Thanks
I corrected my negative fuel trims by replacing the fuel pump, that was after I replaced injectors.
 

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Nice thanks for the info!
How big of job is replacing the injectors and fuel pump?
The fuel pump IMO wasn’t to difficult, but obviously your dealing with an open tank of fuel and vapors was my greatest concern. Replacing injectors requires removing the plenum and fuel rails to remove each injector. I can usually find a few videos on YouTube to get me through a DIY. These could help you decide if you want to attempt a DIY.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The fuel pump IMO wasn’t to difficult, but obviously your dealing with an open tank of fuel and vapors was my greatest concern. Replacing injectors requires removing the plenum and fuel rails to remove each injector. I can usually find a few videos on YouTube to get me through a DIY. These could help you decide if you want to attempt a DIY.
Yep I watched a YouTube video on the injector replacement, it seems manageable.

I've noticed the CEL goes off shortly after I fill the gas tank up. What does it mean when you fill the vehicle and the CEL goes off?
 

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Yep I watched a YouTube video on the injector replacement, it seems manageable.

I've noticed the CEL goes off shortly after I fill the gas tank up. What does it mean when you fill the vehicle and the CEL goes off?
Good question. Maybe someone has had experience with that happening and will reply.
 

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I've noticed the CEL goes off shortly after I fill the gas tank up. What does it mean when you fill the vehicle and the CEL goes off?
Evap system? Are you using an aftermarket gas cap, or is your original one damaged or just plain old old?
Gas Font Electric blue Circle Symbol


Sometimes a new OEM gas cap is all it takes.


That said, you are clicking it at least 3 or 4 times, right?

Also, evap purge solenoid, if the above doesn't do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Evap system? Are you using an aftermarket gas cap, or is your original one damaged or just plain old old? View attachment 160402

Sometimes a new OEM gas cap is all it takes.


That said, you are clicking it at least 3 or 4 times, right?

Also, evap purge solenoid, if the above doesn't do it.
Hi thanks for the reply!

I think it's the original gas cap and it looks ok. I always spin it a few clicks. I'm going to replace it and see what happens. Thanks for recommending the evap purge solenoid, I had no idea about that. How big of job is the evap purge solenoid?

Thanks for taking the time to reply I really appreciate the help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Evap system? Are you using an aftermarket gas cap, or is your original one damaged or just plain old old? View attachment 160402

Sometimes a new OEM gas cap is all it takes.


That said, you are clicking it at least 3 or 4 times, right?

Also, evap purge solenoid, if the above doesn't do it.
I just looked up the evap purge solenoid. It looks super easy. Thank you for the help!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I found a sizable crack in the backside of the intake hose.
I changed the air filter and replaced the intake hose then cleared the codes and CEL and went for a drive. The LTFT are much better and the codes haven't returned. I've only driven a few miles so fingers crossed the CEL doesn't return. I guess I'll know if it's fixed after a few hundred miles 🤞
I'm getting the timing belt/water pump done next week and with a little luck she'll be good as new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well it looks like I hadn't driven far enough for the LTFT levels to measure out and they are infact slowly rising. They're still better then they were but only by a little bit.

What's the procedure to clear the ECU so it has to relearn fueling parameters again?

Is it possible my MAP is dirty from the crack in the intake hose?

What causes negative LTFT values?
Would a new EGR and MAP help?

I'm getting the timing belt/water pump done on Friday and I'm going to get a valve adjustment also, hopefully that will help a bit.

Anyone with any advice please share lol

Thanks guys
 

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