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Discussion Starter #1
So I picked up a 2005 Pilot, 155k miles, in awesome shape. Just for your info it was $5000, has a wonderful clean interior, near perfect exterior, no rust at all, and a time belt done at 109k.



What it needs:
replace radiator (just did it last night, waiting on new coolant to show up, not a bad job as in the plastic covers were the hardest things)


Just changed the air filter (it was the worst I have seen on a running vehicle in a while).



cabin filter, coming today too



TPMS sensor (the tpms light is on)


airbag diagnostic (the srs light is on)


Valve adjustment, it has rough idle, but it still starts and runs fine


trailer hitch, as its missing (great to find the used ones without a hitch - means nobody towed a way too heavy trailer!)


might need a coil (on the way home after picking up the car, the check engine light came on with a #4 cylinder misfire - i moved the plug over to #5 and the coil over to #6 - not throwing a code but not running smooth either hence the valve adjustment is scheduled)


rear diff service, looks like it has 40k miles on the diff fluid.


new key fobs, neither of the original key remotes work.


So, what else? It got a trans flush last year, and the fluid looks fine. Should I add an external trans cooler and filter? Power steering fluid change?

I may do brakes and struts/shocks, but kinda thinking to let them wear out even more. the spark plugs on 4/5/6 looked fine.
 

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Welcome to the forum and congrats on the purchase. These are some items you might consider:

Spark plugs and valve adjustment if there isn’t paperwork showing the work was done.
Check the engine mounts, especially passenger side and front one behind radiator. Those are common failure points.
PCV valve.
Check the condition of the compliance bushings on the lower control arms. Those are also common points of failure on 2005s.
Good that you replaced the radiator since 2005 was not a good year for Pilot radiators. Hoses and thermostat too while you’re in there.
Power steering “flush” is not a bad idea. I use the turkey baster method.
Rear diff fluid since you said it has 40k miles on it. Only use Honda VTM-4 fluid.
Rear blower filter screen (located behind panel of driver’s right foot; I’ll bet it’s completely covered with lint)
Check that all recalls have been addressed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Both airbag inflaters were replaced under recall. Checked and no other recalls are showing up at the nhtsa.
The plugs only have 40k miles on them, nothing for iridiums. I've pulled them out at 80k and they are still working fine.

Does it make sense to change the tranny filter?

The old radiator looks fine. kinda a shame that its getting thrown out. The hoses got changed and since the coolant is fine and the hoses had ZERO corrosion inside I left the t-stat alone.

Thanks for all the ideas!
 

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I would do all the wear parts in the front suspension once and get it over with. You'll do them eventually, and wish you had enjoyed the better ride longer. Pretty simple to do all at once: Lower control arms, tie rod ends (inners if they look bad), sway bar links, sway bar bushings, struts. Rear shocks are easy, so do them, too. After you align it, you're good for whenever you replace tires.

Check the foam filter on the vent for the rear A/C, located on the front-left bottom center console. There's a foam filter than can clog and contribute to failure of the blower speed control from over heating. If your main air filter was dirty, that might be, too.

Check all the dash lights. All the buttons should illuminate. Most bulbs are easy to replace.

I think a full-size spare is essential. If your spare is a donut more than 10 years old, that's a no-brainer.
 

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I bought my 05 a little over two years ago at 96K now currently at 108K. Things I have done for peace of mind and improving ride quality.

New timing belt kit and tensioner because it was over due.
All new fluids since there was no service records available to me.
New rad and hoses for peace of mind.
New plugs at 100K.
New pvc valve since the original froze up. The old pvc was causing a minor lower seal leak that is next nothing now after the replacement.
All new motor mounts since a couple in the front were on their way out. Used genuine Honda mounts since that was recommended to me.
All new shocks and struts KYB along with new Proforged lower control arms and linkage. Control arm bushings were wore out but really still usable.

My maintenance schedule.

Oil and filter change every 6 months no matter the mileage. Using Mobil One oil and filters.
4 quart transmission drain and fill every other oil change with Honda fluid.
New cabin and air filters ever year that works out to every other oil change.

Then of course new tires, brakes and battery done over time.
 

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If you are in the snow-ice-road salt part of the country, then you should check out the condition of the rear subframe to unibody attachment points. In the road salt zone, the rear unibody crossmember tends to rust out, especially at the area where the rear suspension subframe bolts up to the rear crossmember. If you are a happy resident of Tucson or Las Vegas, then don't worry about it!
 

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You are at a good mileage. My 05 is getting up closer and closer to 250k now. Just normal servicing per Honda 7500 schedule, except for transmission at 15 not 30k intervals.
Radiator, Struts and shocks replaced. Kinda wish I did the control arms then as the bushes are shot.
 

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I’m on the fence regarding changing out the tranny filter. A few members on this forum have changed it out but I think it was more for peace of mind than to resolve an issue. If you already have the battery and tray removed it’s worth considering. I’ve been doing a drain and fill every 15k miles so I’m not too concerned about it.
 

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Before you give up on the key fobs, when you have fresh batteries in them does the red light light up??? If so, there is a way if you search online on reprogramming the fobs to the car which is very easy to do.
 

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Inspect your CV boots and see if they are leaking grease. The passenger side on my 05 was seeping grease at both ends of the inner boot (you could see bits of grease on the oil filter between changes). I repacked the joint with CV grease and replace the clamps.

The rear control arms are not adjustable. My garage told me to install adjustable rear control arms to get it aligned.

Expect the tire pressure sensors in the rims to slowly start to fail unless they have already been replaced. 3 of mine failed within a few months window 2 years ago, causing the "TPMS" light to come on. I paid my garage to install 4 new ones for me.

The air intake screen for the rear vents is behind a panel on the drivers side of the center console. This was completely plugged up with dust by 150k miles. An easy job with a shop vac.

Lower the spare tire and inspect/oil everything as needed.
 

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1) I wouldn't do anything with the motor until the valve adjustment - I just did the first valve adjustment at 313,000 on my '03 and it's literally like driving a completely different car. It took me 6 hrs because 11/12 intake valves were loose and 12/12 exhaust valves were tight (so only 1/24 that didn't need a wrench) - the valve cover gaskets were also mostly glued to the head and covers - and therefore I recommend having 3-4 cans of brake parts cleaner on hand.

2) I would recommend changing the boots and seals on the coil packs - the coils are probably good (the ones from Japan seem to last forever), but the rubber seals and boots get brittle and the coil will misfire when wet. Change the pack seals when you do the valve adjustment and valve cover gaskets/grommets.

3) The SRS light is likely one of the buckles - common problem on first gen Pilots. I changed my driver side and reset the light, no more problem. However, I took the old one apart and found a bunch of plastic and crud (from the previous owners) stuffed into the slot, which interfered with the seatbelt sensor - it was probably fine. You can pop the plastic cover on both buckles with a small screwdriver (with the seat in the car) and either blow or suck out the sensor areas. You can also check the seat pressure sensor which is under the seat - there might be a weak connection. After cleaning the buckles and checking the connections you can reset the SRS light with a paper clip, the procedure takes less than a minute. My bet is on one of the buckles, but if the light comes back you'll need to use a OBDII reader that can read SRS codes (to identify the specific problem) or take it to a shop/dealer. You may be able to get a free reading from the shop that changed the airbags (probably not, but worth a call).

4) The TPMS sensor is probably a dead wheel - go to Costco (or your preferred tire center) and ask them to scan your wheels - it takes literally less than 5 minutes and they can quickly tell you if one of the sensors isn't transmitting/responding.

5) I would check the rear sway bar links - not sure about other areas, but in the Midwest (where we have salt) they fall apart. It's technically safer with the links intact but rides much smoother with them broken (go figure).

6) If you feel any shudder or hesitation from the transmission, especially between 30-60 mph, then change the transmission pressure switches. I just changed both of mine when I changed tranny fluid, cost was ~ $50 each ($30-40 less than dealer) for OEM from Amazon. Personally, I'll gladly use generic parts for most repairs but will only OEM for anything electronic on imports, especially Honda and Subaru.
 

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I would recommend also changing the VTM fluid, That rear end is quite an expensive piece of machinery and it needs to be done about every 15,000 miles.
 
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