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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
{RE-posted in 2003-2008 sub-Forum, Posted in Maintenance section by error}


Hi Gang: I've used the advice at this site for a while and it gave me the confidence to replace my Knock sensor (typical rodent chew..). But now the idle is different than before. Even if warm outside (~70deg) when I start a cold engine, it jumps to a fast idle of about 2100rpm. It quickly (few seconds) goes down to ~1100rpm, then back to 2000rpm for a couple seconds. It does this cycle 2-3 times then settles out around 900rpm. Odd in that was not the way it was before my knock sensor and other repair so wondering if I hit/twisted/broke something else.
Also, when I am going 40+mph and take my foot off the accelerator, there is a 'shudder' that feels like it is coming from the transmission. Don't know if it is a downshift or what but a 'new feature'. Trans fluid was replaced last year (honda fluid) and it is properly full.

Here is what I changed:
2004 EX. 175K miles, all stock. I've had it since 2006.
Knock Sensor (Standard KS102), Knock Sensor harness (Honda), and rewired a wire that comes from connector to main harness (it was a persistent rodent...) It had the typical CEL and VTM-4 light)
Did the usual repair steps from advice on this site, cleaned a ton of buildup on those grooves on intake manifold cover etc,

While I was there.........
Replaced Plugs (NGK 4363)
Replaced COP: (Denso 673-2302)
Replaced Fuel Injectors (Standard FJ490)
Replaced all the gaskets with Mahle MS19469 set..
Replaced PCV Valve (Standard V316) and PCV grommet (Dorman 42346)

And since I had so much room with the engine apart, I took the opportunity to replace all the motor/trans mounts. Sounded like a good idea... Spent 80% of my time on the rear one which seemed okay when I finally go it out. The Front and passenger's side ones were definitely torn up. But spent a lot of time laying across the engine bay futzing with that rear mount. I easily could have hit/bent something unintended.

Anyway, got it all back together and had the oscillating idle problem. Tried the reset a couple of times but no joy. One time when it was idling, I rapped on various air intake components and when I hit the IAC valve, the idle went up to ~2000rpm and stayed there. I did spray a lot of Electronic cleaner in that area so maybe some crud got moved around. So, I replaced it (Standard STI AC229), did the reset again and all was good!

3/3/21 Edit: also replaced the MAP Sensor (Standard Motor AS191) and the EGR Valve (EGV658) with no change in the high idle. After it was warm and I was stopped, I put it in Park and gave the accelerator a light, quick tap. That started an endless rpm cycle (up to ~1500 rpm, down to ~900 rpm, repeat) until I shut if off.

There is still a 'shudder' when taking foot of gas if going >30 mph as if i tapped the brake (didnt) plus a higher than normal idle (~850-900rpm)

Any suggestions on what could be causing these conditions?

There are no codes. Warm engine idle in Park is about ~875rpm



thanks for your time
Bob
 

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Banned from wife’s 2005 Pilot LX
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Have you tried cleaning the MAP or MAF sensor? I can’t remember which one the Pilot engine uses.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When i had everything apart, I did spray the MAP with electronic contacts cleaner. Same stuff I used on the IAC valve (which seemed to cause a clog/problem).
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Just one out of a bazillion things to double-check: Are your plugs torqued to spec? OK, now that just leaves you with a bazillion -1 things to check. My point is, and I'm casting no aspersions because it applies to all of us for many things, it's always good to recheck every step of your own work. That's also why this forum has an Edit feature.
 
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