Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have located the squeaking and possible clunk sound I hear when accelerating from zero to the rear differential bushings at the front of the diff. The two mount pads and vertical bolting. The lower looks pretty easy to get to but I don't know the top one.
Does anyone know if the diff can be moved enough with the bolt out to remove and replace the upper pad without having to separate all the axle etc. and drop the diff?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
07 EXL4x4 130 k - I've got a clunk when I'm on /off gas (lightly) and when shifting at low load ( usually higher gears) I've posted as "slack in drive train" - does this sound like what you're experiencing? I've also been suggested rear diff mounts - a shop told me a couple of my motor mounts were "worn" but they didn't think that was causing the slack - they thot that was coming from the final drive but they didn't know why - thanx a lot ($100+) (altho they thot I should have them replaced ($1300) and just see if the slack got worse !)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Sorry to ramble - all that to say I would. also be interested in any info about diff mounts - diagnosis / replacement etc. Thank you - hey I do know about bodywork if anybody has questions about that !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Mine isn't quite like that but similar. I have just one squeak and light clunk only when reversing and then going forward. That's the only time. As if the diff moved in reverse and then the other way when the gears go other direction. I know it's the front bushings because i can push on the diff and make the squeak. And moving it around with a jack looks like it isn't tight all the way like the bushing gave out a little.

I haven't tried to replace these yet but based on the ones i have I am pretty sure they are pressed in. I know i can pry out the bottom one and knock out the top one using a socket but haven't figured out how to get the top one back pressed in. I may just take by my shop and machine the press fit a little on the bushing so it slips in.

b1.JPG b2.JPG

BTW the diff bushings are a good reason should never jack up on the differential.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I haven't gotten under the car and visually inspected my mounts/ bushings yet so I'm not sure how it all works - i also want to look st the rear motor mount. I've tried power - breaking in reverse (as suggested by a shop) but that doesn't seem to duplicate the "clunk" - apparently there is a similar procedure to check the diff. bushings by jacking up the rear (not on the dif) and p/braking ? but I haven't tried that yet . I'm interested to know how it works out with the bushing pressing !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
You'll see when you have a look that the rear differential is mounted to the subframe at 3 points. All of the bolting is through rubber mounts so the differential is just floating on the rubber. There's two large round ones on the back of the subframe that bolt horizontal and then the one in the front on the two pads that bolts vertically.

I can see how the job is $1300. The proper way to do the job is to drain the differential, remove the axles, remove the drive shaft, unplug the connectors up top, and then remove the mount bolts and lower down the differential on a transmission jack and take it out. The mount pads can be done at the bench, but the round ones need a sawzall to cut out the rubber and then cut a seam in the bushing so it can be pulled out easily, or pressed out if they have a tool. The new ones can be hammered in or other press tooling.

If i have to drop the differential to replace the front bushings then I'm doing all the bushings because I just want it done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Thanx for that info - but I don't know if I'm going to have to do that (I hope) because I've now done a procedure to "check" the bushings ( set the parking brake and have helper apply power (fwd & rev) while you watch the diff / bushings for excessive movement ) - which we saw no evidence of - so I'm kind of back to square 1 - leaning toward drive train again ( I guess) - just feels like a " gap " between the engine and wheels - not like something is loose or moving - more of a feel than a noise ! ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Ok, bushings changed. No more noises or clunk.

No need to drop the differential, it will move plenty with the front bolt out. I would consider this job easy. The bushings are pressed in but only slightly. I used a transmission jack to support and move the differential up and down as needed. Use a small chisel or descent shank flat screw driver and start prying around on the bottom bushing until it pops out. The metal of the bushing is pretty soft. Use a socket of length and size to hammer out the top bushing. Do the top install first. Use a flat file to go around the new bushing until you can get it just seat in the top hole of the differential. Raise up the differential and then use a separate jack and some wood to jack on the bottom of the mounting hole to press in the top bushing against the subframe. Same thing with the lower bushing. Install bolt and guide tube and torque to 41ft-lb.

b3.JPG b4.JPG b5.JPG b6.JPG

b7.JPG b8.JPG b9.JPG
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top