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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello!
Just got an 04 Pilot EXL and first thing I did was to replace all fluids. When I changed the atf, I put in as much as I took out 3.5 quarts. Dipstick is really hard to read. Next day I went on 120 mile trip and got a blinking D.Using paper clip method I got code 27. Disconnected the battery and drained out .3 quarts, hoping that blinking D was due to an overfill. I drove about 10 miles no blinking D yet. Should I wait for the code to come back or just bite the bullet and replace 4th gear pressure switch?Would cleaning it help? How urgent is this issue?
 

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If you drained out 3.5 and put in 3.5, your in the range of a normal drain and fill of your transmission. If you drained out .3 more, your likely a little low now.
I believe the blinking D was caused by something else. It would be neccessary to scan the computer for any stored codes to troubleshoot the cause.
 

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2008 Piot SE FWD, 2015 Pilot LX 4WD. 2005 GSX-R1000
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Does it run or shift poorly?

Then my answer would be, check you tranny fluid the way it says in your manual and if it's OK, do nothing.
 
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I guess I should have asked what ATF was used. Wrong fluid could cause a problem. IMO, Even Honda DW-1 is wrong fluid for a transmission originally designed for Z1 ATF.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Does it run or shift poorly?

Then my answer would be, check you tranny fluid the way it says in your manual and if it's OK, do nothing.
I have not noticed any issues with shifts, I have been trying to check the fluid but it’s hard to read that dipstick. I can tell that it’s definitely on the lower mark
 

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No issues with shifting, I did use Honda atf
Before changing any shift solenoids, I'd be driving to Wal-Mart and buy two 1 gallon jugs of Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Do one drain and fill. Drive a few miles mixing the new fluid with what's left on the transmission, then do a 2nd. Then later on, after 500 miles+, buy another jug and do a 3rd. If the light comes on after this, then look at shift solenoids.
 

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Before changing any shift solenoids, I'd be driving to Wal-Mart and buy two 1 gallon jugs of Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Do one drain and fill. Drive a few miles mixing the new fluid with what's left on the transmission, then do a 2nd. Then later on, after 500 miles+, buy another jug and do a 3rd. If the light comes on after this, then look at shift solenoids.
27 is the code for the 4th pressure switch, not the shift solenoid. I just went through this last week with changing all my pressure switches, shift solenoids, and clutch pressure solenoids. All the names sound vaguely similar, but they are completely different things.
 

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Sorry, just want to stop misinformation being spread to new members on this forum.

Honda used Z-1 ATF in 2004 Pilots. At some point they released a new fluid, DW-1. Dealers were told that it is compatible with all transmissions which previously used Z-1.

DW-1 is not the wrong fluid. It is compatible with your vehicle, just updated. If we followed the same logic, we’d say synthetic oil is not compatible with your Pilot because It came from the factory with conventional oil.
 

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Sorry, just want to stop misinformation being spread to new members on this forum.

Honda used Z-1 ATF in 2004 Pilots. At some point they released a new fluid, DW-1. Dealers were told that it is compatible with all transmissions which previously used Z-1.

DW-1 is not the wrong fluid. It is compatible with your vehicle, just updated. If we followed the same logic, we’d say synthetic oil is not compatible with your Pilot because It came from the factory with conventional oil.
Z1 was the fluid designed for the OPs transmission. DW-1 was Hondas next move which has also failed many Honda owners who trusted this ATF. History has proven the unreliability of DW-1 in transmissions originally specd Z1. Ya it works, but not very good and not for long. The OP is an example. There may very well be a switch or a solenoid problem, I'd want rule out DW-1 as the problem. Many Piloteers have made the switch to VML. It's not just one guy making a sales pitch. VML does what it says on the back of the bottle.
 

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If/when you replace the pressure switch get an OEM part. Too many people have had negative results with aftermarket switches. If you’re DIY’ing this you might consider replacing the 3rd gear switch while you’re down there. You will also need a crush washer for each switch.
 

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27 is the code for the 4th pressure switch, not the shift solenoid. I just went through this last week with changing all my pressure switches, shift solenoids, and clutch pressure solenoids. All the names sound vaguely similar, but they are completely different things.
I, too, have made the mistake of conflating them in the past.

But yes, as others suggest...
  1. 3x drain & fill with Valvoline Maxlife ATF, driving some between each, and if that doesn't do it...
  2. Swap out 3rd & 4th transmission pressure switches with OEM only. Good reminder about the crush washers.
 

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27 is the code for the 4th pressure switch, not the shift solenoid. I just went through this last week with changing all my pressure switches, shift solenoids, and clutch pressure solenoids. All the names sound vaguely similar, but they are completely different things.
When u get a chance using your old parts, post some pics of the differences as i wish to be edjucated in pressure switches versus solenoids. Could be stickie worthy as each Pilot generation seems to require these troublesome parts.
 
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