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03 Pilot. Oil leak, low gas mileage and door lock actuator.

4328 Views 114 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  plplplpl, 
J
Hello again piloteers. I apologize for the long post, let me know if I should break it up into separate threads. I have a few issues I would like assistance in troubleshooting and resolving. I will list according to order I plan on doing the work. Twenty year old Pilot 169K miles currently. All fluid service performed diligently. I hope I can keep for another 20 years. I am 70, no need for a new vehicle. Love my 03 Pilot.
2011 Timing belt service
2021 Timing belt service and Minor tune-up - Spark plug service
Nov. 2022 DIY - Replaced radiator (SMOD preventative maintenance). Cleaned up oil around front cylinder head and engine. Monitored and have not seen oil in that area since.
Issues and plans:
1. Oil change.

For the past 20 years I have never had to top off oil until recently. Oil change done March 2022, Dec. 16 I had to add 12 ounces. Didn’t see any drips on the driveway so figured the engine is burning oil. About 3 weeks ago I did see a small spot so I got under vehicle and saw oil on the bottom of the oil pan. I cleaned it up, including on the back side of the engine and transmission. Verified there is a leak because I had to wipe that are area several times since. It’s not a bad leak , because I check the oil level and have not had to top off at all, but I can smell oil it.
Plan on using Amsoil Signature Series 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil and adding ATP AT-205. I have seen this additive recommend on this forum for rejuvenating seals and stopping leaks. From what I have read on this forum the issue is possibly where the engine is bolted onto the transmission.
Question: Can the ATP AT-205 cause other issues like clogging injectors? What oil filter do you guys recommend?

2. Low gas mileage.

May 2022 went on a 500 mile roundtrip, added “Lucas upper cylinder lubricant with injector cleaner and fuel conditioners” at fill up. Filled up on my way back and calculated 19.5 mpg. At next fill up 18.5mpg. I was driving mostly 75, 80 mph and at times 90 mph for short periods of time. Since then I have gotten 14, 12, 9 and 12 mpg. I think something is wrong. I am also hearing some sounds that maybe related to this issue.
Ticking sound, I think maybe valve clearance issue
Sometimes I hear like low pof, pof pof pof, pof. J Not constant, extremely intermittent. My nephew mentioned that it may be misfire issue, I have no idea what a misfire should sound like. Audio file here: 230125_jamaicanjoe.mp3 hopefully you guys can hear it and I am not going crazy. You can hear the ticking and at 40 and 59 seconds and 1 minute 2 seconds you can hear the poffs. Sounds like ticks on the recording.

Plan: Clean Throttle Body, MAF and change PCV.
Is MAF and MAP sensor the same thing?
PCV has never been replaced, as far as I can remember. Appreciate any advice tutorial you can provide.
Concerns: Removing TB, specifically the accelerator cables.
And I have a real concern on the PCV. I believe I have read on the forum that if you are not really careful the gasket that the PCV plugs onto can fall into the engine. At which point you have to take things apart to get to it. I don’t want to do that since I have no experience taking engine apart.
I believe other things have been recommended on this forum for gas mileage issue but I believe these are the easiest and what I am comfortable trying.

3. Driver side automatic door lock actuator not working with fob, which affects all doors.

I believe there are YouTube videos out there on how to change the actuator but any advice here will be appreciated.
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T
My take:

1. Oil is cheap. Keep it topped off and you'll be fine for a while. I haven't tried the Amsoil products.
2. Also clean the "ant farm" on the underside of the intake manifold cover. Get it "breathing" easily again, then pull the codes. If it's misfiring, it will tell you.
3. Buy the actuator complete, not just the motor. Take a picture before you take it out. Getting it back in and properly oriented is the hard part of an otherwise-easy job.
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nwjon06
Tacoma'03Pilot said:
My take:

1. Oil is cheap. Keep it topped off and you'll be fine for a while. I haven't tried the Amsoil products.
2. Also clean the "ant farm" on the underside of the intake manifold cover. Get it "breathing" easily again, then pull the codes. If it's misfiring, it will tell you.
3. Buy the actuator complete, not just the motor. Take a picture before you take it out. Getting it back in and properly oriented is the hard part of an otherwise-easy job.
Click to expand...
I'd like to check my ant farm. Don't know if it's ever been done. Not in the year I've had it anyway. Need a gasket?
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nwjon06 said:
I'd like to check my ant farm. Don't know if it's ever been done. Not in the year I've had it anyway. Need a gasket?
Click to expand...
There is a metal gasket for the top of the intake manifold. It's 17146-P8E-A21. It took 2 cans of carb cleaner, a brush, and some elbow grease for me to fully clean my cover the first time at 175k miles. My EGR valve and its passage were pretty cruddy too, so I replace the valve and reamed out the passage.

I had good luck with an aftermarket door lock actuator from Amazon for like $15. You've got to remove the entire lock assembly from the door, then dismantle the assembly carefully to replace just the motor, so if that'll be challenging, then you can just get the whole assembly, but it'll be pricey. You'll need skinny hands, an inspection mirror, and various long pliers in order to get all the lock rods disconnected inside the door. The worst part is the lever between the door lock key cylinder and the actuator assembly. You'll also need to remove the 3 philips head screws in the side of the door that hold the actuator assembly to the door frame. They're almost always corroded and stuck really tight, so you probably can't get them out with just a screwdriver. Either an impact screwdriver or a screwdriver socket on a wrench should give you enouh leverage to break them loose.
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T
andywatson said:
There is a metal gasket for the top of the intake manifold. It's 17146-P8E-A21. It took 2 cans of carb cleaner, a brush, and some elbow grease for me to fully clean my cover the first time at 175k miles. My EGR valve and its passage were pretty cruddy too, so I replace the valve and reamed out the passage.
Click to expand...
My experience was similar. It's not a fun job, but it makes a noticeable difference.

I don't think I replaced the gasket. Mine came out intact, so I just put a little grease on it and torqued it down gently. The rest of the manifold gaskets are a lot more delicate, if memory serves.
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nwjon06
Apparently, according to Amazon, gasket 17146-P8E-A21 does not fit an 06
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royalbiggster
Remove your spark plugs and see if the Amsoil caused them to get dirty. You're going to want to remove your pcv valve and see if the seals are dried up and if it still rattles.
What engine oil do you use, and what is your service interval like? I would wager you have some sludge building up and clogging components like your pcv valve. If you aren't already, switch to a Full synthetic oil.
You make sure to keep the fluid below the full mark, and above the low mark? Overfilled engine oil can whip and expand like foam and cause pressure issues. Never over/underfill any of your fluids.
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nwjon06 said:
Apparently, according to Amazon, gasket 17146-P8E-A21 does not fit an 06
Click to expand...
I was mainly talking to the OP, title of this post says it's an 03.
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plplplpl
Tacoma'03Pilot said:
2. Also clean the "ant farm" on the underside of the intake manifold cover. Get it "breathing" easily again, then pull the codes. If it's misfiring, it will tell you.
Click to expand...
"Ant farm," lol.

Passages and ports.


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J
Thank you all for your responses. I am hoping to do the oil change this week. I have always used full synthetic or at least that is what I have been paying for. This is going to be the first I am doing the change myself. Last oil change was 11 months ago with only approx. 1500 miles. What oil filter do you guys recommend.

And any thoughts on adding AT-205 for oil leak. See start of thread. Thanks.
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J
plplplpl said:
"Ant farm," lol.

Passages and ports.


Click to expand...
Thanks @plplplpl for this video.
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royalbiggster
I like Mobil 1 one year 20k oil filter. I change my oil every March and Sept, but only change the filter every March. When you take it to the oil change place make a point that you do not want them to top off any other fluids. They do not carry honda fluids, and you want only honda fluids in your vehicle. They will cause damage adding their off the shelf fluids to your vehicle. Engine oil is fine, but the other fluids require honda fluids. Don't let them top them off. Make a big deal about it.
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plplplpl
royalbiggster said:
They do not carry honda fluids, and you want only honda fluids in your vehicle.
Click to expand...
With the famous exception of synthetic Valvoline Maxlife ATF, I'm sure he meant to say. :p

Excellent (and less expensive) Valvoline Maxlife ATF to pamper your Honda Pilot
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J
Ok didn't get to do the oil change yet, hopefully in the next couple days.
And any thoughts on adding AT-205 for oil leak.?
Anyone know if the inside of the 03 Pilot oil pan is painted or have any kind of plastic coating?
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royalbiggster
Only works if the seal is dried up and doesn't have cuts or tears in it. It doesn't actually seal anything. It's safe on plastic. There was some talk based off of theory that it would damage plastic, but was only a theory and not based on any testing or first hand experience. Our oil pans are bare metal no paint.
It is not similar to other re-sealers. It is a plasticizer and not petroleum based. Which means it doesn't soften or swell the seals, it just re-introduces moisture into them and brings back their elasticity. A leak caused by a damaged seal will not be fixed, but an old dried up one will.
There was a year or so at the start of the pandemic that it went away. It was real hard to get. When it came back it was changed. Check out the video below. Could be it worked so well they had pressure to make changes. Unfortunately. I haven't had the chance to verify either, but this stuff was the best. It worked for me time and time again.
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plplplpl
Is nothing sacred anymore? Hope they didn't change the winning formula just to make it smell better.

I did use 1/3 of a bottle from my recently purchased batch in my daughter's 2007 PS fluid change. Hard to tell if it's the fresh (Honda OEM) PS fluid or the AT-205, or both, but a nasty, noisy, jerky PS pump was cured without even having to apply the usual fix of replacing the original black o-ring with the new and improved orange o-ring.

I also used two bottles do do my customary undercarriage spraying of all boots and bushings before the winter season. I haven't seen (or heard) any adverse effects so far, quite the contrary.

Fingers crossed ATP didn't kill the goose that lays the golden eggs.
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J
Thank you @royalbiggster and @plplplpl for your responses.
I have watched several videos but wanted to get input here specific to Pilot.
Based on the chart below I am going to add 1 bottle (8oz) when I do the oil change.
Pour in 3 qts oil, add the AT-205, then 2 qts oil. Monitor level at the 5th qt.

One last question on the AT-205 as it relates to PCV.
The PCV plugs into a rubber grommet on the back valve cover correct?
Since it rejuvenate rubber seals, can I coat the grommet with a couple drops of the AT-205? Would it rejuvenate this grommet? I believe the PCV replacement come with a new grommet and I am concerned about the old one breaking apart and falling in the engine.

Some members on this forum already know I am a newbie when it comes to working on automobile. Actually at 70 this is going to be my first oil change. Damn shame. But, I have gotten a lot of help from fellow members. I will be asking question again when I am ready to tackle the gas mileage issue.

Thanks all.

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royalbiggster
All that sounds right. I would put 1/2 in engine oil, 1/8 - 1/16 in power steering and the rest in transmission fluid. It is a tiny bottle, so won't change the levels much.
You can put it on the grommet, but shouldn't be needed. If your current PCV is leaking it is probably a good time to replace it. You are right to be careful not to break it off in the valve cover. I think the main factor in it breaking is where and how it is pried out. First twist it to break the bond free, and don't pry it on the tab (bolt hole), pry it from both sides at the same time, don't pry on one side. Pry slow and carefully. Don't force it. You might get lucky and it just comes right out, like all the ones I have replaced. Although many aren't so lucky.
If your pcv has sludge on it, try to clean the housing with a sheet of paper towel twisted to fit in the housing and spin it to try to clean it out a little bit.
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plplplpl
jamaicanjoe said:
One last question on the AT-205 as it relates to PCV.
The PCV plugs into a rubber grommet on the back valve cover correct?
Since it rejuvenate rubber seals, can I coat the grommet with a couple drops of the AT-205? Would it rejuvenate this grommet? I believe the PCV replacement come with a new grommet and I am concerned about the old one breaking apart and falling in the engine.
Click to expand...

As stated by the knowledgeable gentleman above me, I don't think a PVC grommet needs AT-205, but I also don't think a little dab'll hurt anything. Much more important is to replace the PVC valve at this point, as I would consider it a maintenance item.

Hopefully you won't need the thread below, but if you do, you'll be happy to have it.

Broken PCV Valve Stuck in Engine FIX



And congrats on DIYing your first oil change ever. (y) There are some unfortunate folks in this world who will never experience that joy throughout their entire lifetimes.
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J
OK, oil change completed successfully and added 5 oz. AT-205. The rest of the AT-205, I will add a little to the power steering and the rest to the transmission as suggested by @royalbiggster

The next issue in my OP – low gas mileage: I think I am going to need to drastically expand what I had planned on doing. Plan was to replace the PCV, remove and clean the TB, clean MAF, clean the intake manifold (ant farm), clean and test the EGR valve, etc. From some YouTube videos and threads on this forum all that should address the gas mileage and misfire issue. I do believe I have a misfire issue, while engine was running to circulate oil I could hear it distinctly, several times, actually a lot more than I used to. I believe I am also hearing ticking which I guess would indicate that the valves needs adjusting. So if these steps does not fix the misfire I guess I will need to completely remove the plenum and valve covers.

I figure if I have to pull spark plugs to check, I might as well go all the way. I have watched some videos but will also need input from members here.

Someone suggested I check the spark plug coils if they are leaking/sparking, which I can do in the dark. Does this sound like a good troubleshooting step? What would be the draw back if I don’t do the valve adjustment?
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