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I stayed with the factory stereo since it already has a dedicated subwoofer output. I use the AudioControl LC7i to convert the speaker outputs to low level to the amps. A Kenwood 4-channel powers the door speakers and the Pioneer GM-D9701 powers the 2 Alpine SWR-10D4 Type-R 10" Subwoofers with Dual 4-ohm Voice Coils. Running the amp and subs at 1 ohm load produces 1200 watts RMS and it sounds freakin amazing! Everything is crystal clear and it doesn't take up any additional space. Amps are stowed beneath the third row seats and the speaker enclosures only take up the storage space that I wasn't using anyway. The LC7i sits in the storage area just in front of the cup holders. Just know that you will have to disconnect the two sound-leveling microphones in the headliner if you start upgrading the factory head unit or you'll get some major feedback. Time is money so, I spent about $300 for a 'professional' to run the wiring from the battery to the third row and from the head unit to the LC7i to the amps and back to the speakers. I had to go back later to adjust things a little since he didn't trust the amps to go under the third row seats thinking they would run too hot. He was wrong - they have plenty of headroom to stay cool.I have a 2010 Honda pilot and I was thinking about doing the same thing debating on whether to just go with the space with the factory sub I have a question what subs do you have and are you running an aftermarket head unit
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