OEM Radio Amp $ Sub Install (2013 Pilot)

[Armystrong]

Well...after reading many posts and options for adding an amplifier and sub to an OEM radio I finally decided to do this install a little differently than others. ( I used what I had here at the house...no "Adjustable line output converter"!!)

I did not have to remove the OEM Head Unit (HU). Without a wire diagram here are the steps I took.

1. Disconnected the ANC mics on the overhead console
2. Removed the Rear right passenger door panel
3. Removed the stock oem speaker to view the positive and negative wire (Solid blue and Red with gray marks)
4. Removed the Right front passenger and right rear passenger kick plates and the pillar between the two
5. Removing the pillar allowed me to remove the front passenger seat belt assembly (2 bolts, 10 mm and 15 mm bolt) giving me access to the wire harness connector.
6. Having access to the wire connector behind the seat belt assembly kept me from wiring through the door panel, and routing the wires through the rubber piece between the door and the pillar.
7. Spliced an RCA cable (center core wire) into the speaker + wire at the wire connector (behind seat belt assembly) and - wire to the shield wire of the RCA cable.
8. Ran power wire (8 gauge) along driver side from battery to Rockford Fosgate Punch 400 in the cargo area.
9. For now I grounded the amplifier inside the Aux Fuse panel in the cargo area (left side)

Pictures say it all but I am out of time right now to show you how I modified the RCA Cable to splice it into the speaker wires inside the cabin area....not at the speaker itself.

Pictures will be added on disconnecting the ANC, removing the door panel and door lock cables (what a pain), splicing the RCA into the wires, removing the kicker boards, and running the cables.

Stay tuned!

[DrAwkwArD]

How and where did you ground the RCA cables?

Does you amplifier have a high-level input?

[Armystrong]

Originally Posted by DrAwkwArD

How and where did you ground the RCA cables?

Does you amplifier have a high-level input?

The core of the RCA cable was spliced into the positive wire. The shield was connected to the - wire. Since I am not an audio guru I spliced both wire for future purposes in case my RCA method didn't work, requiring me to buy an Adjustable Line Out Converter. That way I don't have to remove the kick panel and pillar panel again.

The way you asked your questions leads me to believe I did something wrong. The Rockford Fosgate Punch 400 is working like it always has and the sub is producing the crisp clean bass. Now you have me wondering if something is going to get damaged, any of the components so I disconnected everything till I hear back.

Please let me know if I did something wrong?

Pictures delayed until I figure out if this is acceptable even if the system sounds great. (I do not want to mislead anyone)

[richiebowen]

One problem with the way you did this, you just wired the speaker output to the amp. Amps should be provided the audio through a pre-out that means pre-amplified so its just the signal. I dont know what issue this would cause but I would be willing to bet it would cause failure in the amp eventually since its not intended to be used that way. This is the reason they make the device to change the wattage coming from a head unit to a line-out so you can attach the amp, its not just a adapter for the connector.

[DrAwkwArD]

What Richie said is what I was getting at.

Splicing in RCA's will indeed work but that's just because it's a signal. The proper way to avoid any potential problems is to use a good quality Line Out Converter...one with a small transformer in it and not just resistors.

As Richie said, you are using an already amplified signal and passing it to a Low-Level (pre-amplified) port to become amplified. This could cause potential clipping (when a signal gets "clipped" and causes a normally rounded waveform to look more like a square-wave, which in turn can cause damage to speakers). Your already amplified signal will be driven to the amplifier's maximum output and then, because the signal is already amplified, the signal will be clipped.

In all honesty, the method you used may work for you for the rest of your life and you may never have any problems...or it could cause ground loops or possible distortion which in turn could ruin a woofer.

The safe and time-tested way to deal with your situation is to spend a little bit more and buy a line out converter. Typically, using the rear speakers is the best choice. Also, once you've set your adjustable settings on your line out converter you may never touch them again.


As for a little background, I was an MECP installer when I was younger and did it for about 4 or 5 years. Haven't delved into car audio in about ten years but nothing has changed except for the hardware...all the principles are the same.

Hopefully this has helped a bit. Let me know if you have any other questions.

[Armystrong]

Originally Posted by DrAwkwArD

What Richie said is what I was getting at.

Splicing in RCA's will indeed work but that's just because it's a signal. The proper way to avoid any potential problems is to use a good quality Line Out Converter...one with a small transformer in it and not just resistors.

As Richie said, you are using an already amplified signal and passing it to a Low-Level (pre-amplified) port to become amplified. This could cause potential clipping (when a signal gets "clipped" and causes a normally rounded waveform to look more like a square-wave, which in turn can cause damage to speakers). Your already amplified signal will be driven to the amplifier's maximum output and then, because the signal is already amplified, the signal will be clipped.

In all honesty, the method you used may work for you for the rest of your life and you may never have any problems...or it could cause ground loops or possible distortion which in turn could ruin a woofer.

The safe and time-tested way to deal with your situation is to spend a little bit more and buy a line out converter. Typically, using the rear speakers is the best choice. Also, once you've set your adjustable settings on your line out converter you may never touch them again.


As for a little background, I was an MECP installer when I was younger and did it for about 4 or 5 years. Haven't delved into car audio in about ten years but nothing has changed except for the hardware...all the principles are the same.

Hopefully this has helped a bit. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Wow, excellent feedback and very informative. Thank you for offering your insight, knowledge and experience. I WILL be ordering an Adjustable Line Out Converter tonight.

Seriously...thank you both for you input. I want to post pictures of the install but only when it is done right. Therefore I will hold off until I install the converter.

Thanks a Million!