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Okay here is some helpfull info for those DIY'ers out there that have experienced the flashing D light.
I found out how to pull the special Honda Transmission codes from the ECU without actually going to Honda (they don't show up on an OBD2 scanner). Take a paper clip and unbend it so you have two prongs pointing in the same direction. Now jam them into the #4 and #9 pins of your OBD2 service port like the picture below (My Pilot has the plug oriented different so pay attention).
Grab your pen & paper and sit down in the drivers seat. Now stick the key in and switch the ignition to the On position. Your D light and check engine light and VTM light will begin flashing. Pay attention to the D light for now. Record the number of long blinks followed by the short blinks for your D light. Then do the same for your Check Engine light and VTM light. In my case I had code 27 on the D light. That was 2 long blinks followed by 7 short blinks. Then I had code 70 on the check engine light. That is 7 long blinks and no short blinks.
When I go to the shop manual, Code 70 means "problem with the automatic transmission". This is a generic code and WILL show up on an OBD2 scanner as P0700 which simply tells you "go to the dealer". This only means there was A problem with the transmission. Next is where we refer to the code 27 (the real info). This won't show up on a scan tool. Code 27 means one of two things in the shop manual:
- 4th clutch fluid pressure switch (short or stuck ON)
- 4th clutch fluid pressure switch (open or stuck OFF)
Since I replaced both my pressure switches yesterday, I should be good to go now.
Yes. But it's still not as good/specific as the Honda HDS scanner. For example, the code 27 I pulled, would be displayed on your dashboard for both an open or short condition of the 4th gear pressure switch. If you had the Honda HDS scanner, it would tell you specifically as code 27-3 for short/on or 27-4 for open/off.
The weird part is that manual reads off OBD2 style "P" codes (powertrain) for every transmission-specific code as well, but I was unable to read these with the OBD2 scan tool I borrowed from O'Reilly's. P0872 = 27-3 and P0873 = 27-4. The only one I could read with this tool was P0700 which, as I mentioned, is a generic "AT Problem" code. And I even had to put the scanner into a special "Honda" specific mode to find that one.
Here is a list of the A/T trouble codes you can get from your dashboard. This reference is from a 2004 Acura TL, so it's probably missing 4WD specific stuff. Also notice they are in an odd group order (not numerical). According to the manual the codes I've put in bold "are caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission". This means the ones not in bold are BAD NEWS!:
5 - Transmission range switch (multiple shift-position input)
6 - Transmission range switch (open)
28 - ATF temperature sensor (range/performance, short, or open)
15 - Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (range/performance, intermittent failure)
9 - Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (range/performance, no signal input, intermittent failure)
64 - 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th or 5th gear incorrect ratio
40 - Torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck off
76 - AT clutch pressure control solenoid valve stuck (ON, OFF)
70 - Shift solenoid valve A stuck (ON, OFF)
71 - Shift solenoid valve B stuck (ON, OFF)
72 - Shift solenoid valve C stuck (ON, OFF)
77 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B stuck (ON, OFF)
45 - Shift control system
24 - Transmission gear selection switch upshift or downshift switch (short or stuck ON)
26 - 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
27 - 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
24 - Transmission gear selection switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
16 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A
23 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B
29 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C
7 - Shift solenoid valve A (short, open)
8 - Shift solenoid valve B (short, open)
22 - Shift solenoid valve C (short, open)
1 - Torque converter clutch solenoid valve (short, open)
BTW: I figured this out while reading and re-reading and re-reading the first couple pages of the A/T section of my 04 TL shop manual. It mentions you can get the trouble codes to display via the D light by grounding out one of the wires on your OBD-2 scanner harness. Well I knew there had to be a ground already in the plug itself, so I did a little searching. That's when I found a website that mentioned getting check engine light codes to display on your dash (that's where that picture came from). I figured it would work for the trans codes, so I tested it and it worked.
This page shows all the codes your Check Engine Light will blink out: K20Tuned LLC*::*DC5/EP3 Codes
follow the paper-clip method outlined above in my post. Then tell use what the code is.
Yeah, the light starts flashing only when it detects a total failure. Your pressure switches are starting to act up. They get out of calibration after years of service and it looks like now is a good time to replace them. Your shift quality is likely suffering and perhaps other parts within the transmission. Will cost ~$70 in parts depending on your year. 2005 EXL shows parts...
90471-PW7-A00 -$1.90 (you need two of these crush washers)
OEMAcuraParts.com is a good place out of AZ and a site sponsor. You can get half-price shipping with promo code GALAGA too.
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