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#2 (permalink) |
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Super Senior Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Red Sox Nation
Posts: 7,178
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New one to me.
On another car I had a similar but not as severe problem on one side. Ended up replacing the switchgear inside the car.
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https://www.facebook.com/pages/Chris...19131498101662 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 733
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Check the high beam relay, or relays (anyone know if the Pilot has separate circuits for left and hight hand lamps?)
Check for proper switching for control line to that relay(s) (make sure the headlight high-low switch is setting the control wire for that relay 12v and 0v as you'd expect):. If not, odds are you have a bad headlight switch on the column. If the switch check out ok, it's a bad wire or connector elsewhere. Make with the multimeter and lots of patience. If none of this makes much sense to you, you might do well to take the problem to a professional. A failing high beam can sometimes be a foreboding of a failing lighting system if the column switch is on the way out. Losing both high and low beams in the dead of night on a turn at 60mph is surprisingly unpleasant. Ask me how I know.
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2011 Touring 4x4 RES, Dark Cherry Pearl & Beige "The HDMI Wagon" Last edited by theirishscion; 09-06-2011 at 12:16 PM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 196
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If the low beams turn off when the high beams are activated......then if both high beam bulbs are burned out you will not have any headlights when the high beams are activated.
I am not sure if the 2004 pilot headlights work this way......but most cars will shut off the low beams when the high beams are on. Also ....Check the fuses...there may be a separate fuse for each head light. Also remove the bulbs and look to see if the filament is broken on the high beam. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 733
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Right, suggesting that this person's problem lies in the combination switch. I can't be sure but I'm strongly suspicious.
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2011 Touring 4x4 RES, Dark Cherry Pearl & Beige "The HDMI Wagon" |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Hamburg,NY
Posts: 9
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Again, Thanks for the help. It was the switch. Went and picked up a new one for $26, replaced it in about an hour's time. Everything works fine. Wonder what a dealer would have charged.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 733
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We live to serve
Glad it worked out. Factor no less than an hour's labor at the dealer, plus $40 for the switch, so ~$160 when all is said and done.
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2011 Touring 4x4 RES, Dark Cherry Pearl & Beige "The HDMI Wagon" |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: WA State
Posts: 1,817
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Quote:
- Mark |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Hamburg,NY
Posts: 9
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No major gotchas. Having a shop manual was an asset. I did remove both bulbs and the filaments looked good on both but I replaced them anyway ($20.00). I also checked the relays with a multimeter to verify their integrity. The only issue that I had was that when I removed the 2 screws that held the switch in the bracket, I still met with resistance extracting it. Upon real close scrutiny of the diagram in the manual I realized that the manual showed a small pin molded into the switch that slipped into a tiny hole in the bracket. Just inserting a small screw driver head and prying a little allowed the switch to easily slip right out. Once all that was done the job was all but done. One other thing... turn the ignition key on just to free up the steering wheel and turn it so that the screws for the switch are exposed for clear access to the screws. I messed around with an offset phillips screwdriver until it dawned on me that I could do that. You'd think that would be obvious but I couldn't see it for awhile.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Super Senior Member
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Location: Red Sox Nation
Posts: 7,178
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Love it when I guess right!
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