I have an MDX, but the PS, transmission, radiator, etc. is pretty much the same layout. I thought the folks on the Pilot forum would get more out of this than the MDX folks. You all tend to do more towing, and harder driving. I have not towed yet, but with 80,000+ on the new-to-me MDX, I wanted to ensure longevity of the PS system and transmission well into the 200k mile range. I purchased two B&M coolers (70255 & 70268 / PS & trans respectively) which are each 3/4" thick, with the PS a bit smaller than the trans cooler. I didn't like the plastic ties the coolers come with, and didn't like the idea of shoving them through the a/c condenser....I'm sure the condenser was not designed to have things attached to it. I purchased some aluminum square and c-channel tubing from Lowes, and attached it to the stock PS/trans cooler mounting points on the frame which worked out pretty well. Getting the bumper off was a lot simpler than I thought it would be. You can see where I extended the lower PS hose, the other hoses I completely replaced with those that came with the B&M kits. I also wrapped a few placed which might rub with heater hose.
Also changed PS, trans, front diff, rear diff, oil and brake fluids. Can't believe how much of that damn expensive VTM fluid I had to use. Also replaced brake pads with Duralast C-Max (ceramic). The brakes are very quiet and easy to modulate, and grab hard when you need them to...I did a few pedal-to-the-floor stops from 50-60mph and they felt very solid with the ABS keeping it right at threshold.
In-line filters and an oil cooler were on my list of things to do in the future....of course I wonder at what point am I adding more things that can go wrong, and only providing a marginal benefit? Thoughts?
:29: Very nice piece of work ... I like copying the masters !!
A very nice tidy job - your thoughts helped me a lot , thank you.
Took the bumper off tonight did the oil change while I was there and will do the tranny fluid after the cooler goes in. I am adding the B&M filter in-line with the cooler. I like being able to service it and having an easy access point to do a full pump and dump on the tranny fluid. Putting one of those on all 4 of my vehicles. Thanks again. Enjoy
Nice work! The extra protection at the rub points was a good idea. Looks solid. Wasn't sure you acura guys still got your hands dirty
The photos are really helpfull.
Definitely a wanna-be Pilot owner. Was looking at both and happened to come upon a clean MDX for a good price first. You're right, MDX owners don't get there hands as dirty....that's why I hang around here.
nice install.
came up to install coolers on my sons 2005 pilot along wiht a curt hitch. ordered the same B&M coolers. Saw this thread, love the install.
yes I did look into the search but did not see the answers, will try again
couple of questions :
1) to save steps, and pick things up in route, does the author or others know what size square stock and c hannel was used
2)) Autozone says that their multi import tranny fluid is the same, does a person really ahve to use honda fludis for the tranny and p/s ( nearest honda place 1/2 hour away) ( I dont want to cause problems in the long run)
3)) whats the trick to changing the rear windshield wiper rubber
also he had his last oil change at firestone, papers say topped off antifreeze, does that need to be special honda also
all going good,
trico 14b was wiprer blade I needed
got my mounts all made up
plumb it in morning just need to figurer which is tranny return
also gonna do tranny filter change
curt hitch went on wiht no prob
Mokahon,
The C-channel is 7/8" x 1/2", and the tubing is 1" square.
Highly recommend using Honda/Acura PS fluid. Might be very similar to the generic brands, however the few bucks more for the Honda fluid is cheap insurance in my book.
We'd love to see pictures of your install, including the hitch. Thanks!
Mokahon,
The C-channel is 7/8" x 1/2", and the tubing is 1" square.
Highly recommend using Honda/Acura PS fluid. Might be very similar to the generic brands, however the few bucks more for the Honda fluid is cheap insurance in my book.
We'd love to see pictures of your install, including the hitch. Thanks!
thanks for the help
sorry I did not take pictures. I was in a barn and at 27 degreees most of th etime ( in hershey pa)
the "frame" I made I wipoed down and painted black. yes I know paint does not stick great to aluminum, but for now it looks better. the cooler hoses are a bit smaller than the stock metric size, but with some good elbow pressure you can get them on, I also replaced the stock filter, that was a real pain in the butt, but its done.
ther rear hitch was a curt brand. the biggest problem wiht it was the rusty nuts in the frame ( rust from road salt) and took quite a bit of time to clean the threads out. used pb blaster, took an old bolt and cut a groove into it wiht a hack saw, and made it into a thread chaaser.
the instructions say to remount the tow hook, but you cant, it wont fit.
the hitch wiring was easier then the instrucdtions state, they also state just have the wire hang loose in the storage compartment and when needed pull out and have it smash between the tailgate and rubber gasket. I instead just popped the plug on the body and put the wires down below by the spare tire and sealed the whole plug ) cause I had to notch it) wiht silicone
so now my son can pull small trailer s and a bike rack for he and his family
and IM back homje where they dont use salt on roads and I dont see those kind of rust issues he is already having ( in my state they use sand)
Mokahon the return line that I used on my 2005 was marked with a white stripe. The other next to it has a blue stripe.
I removed the battery and the tray and found that access was much easier. While I was at it I installed an inline filter
that I picked up from AutoZone for $12 (located below the tray).
Later on I might add another filter to the power steering line.
I've been looking for exactly this. I had not thought of getting both coolers from the same manufacturer, but the mounting arrangement makes the most sense now that I look at it.
Thanks to you, Rower4VT, for the initial write-up and photos. You've done all the engineering for me already. Your photos are copied to my laptop for future reference when I get a "Round Tuit".
I will be adding Magnefines to both systems, too, unless a small spin-on will fit somewhere for the trans.
Hi , two options ... mine I set it so I can reach through the grill at the front to change the filter. If it is really tight I can pop the cover at the top and get the filter wrench in that way aswell .
Similar to the pics above I set the filter above the bumper on the rack set up that holds the cooler. When I was alligning the filter I would put the bumper up in place to gage access.:29:
You should see how the Toyota brains installed the oil filter on their Tacomas. Near the top of the engine bay with the opening pointed down... Now that's a mess to change.
Right. I had a Tacoma and changed the oil a few times. They designed in a small oil catch funnel with a place to attach a drain tube to drain the oil filter oil, but it never really functioned as designed and I ended up washing the engine compartment not long after each oil change. On a side note, that was my only complaint with the entire truck. Overall it was an incredibly smartly designed vehicle.
You guys rock. Awesome job! Thanks for the writeups and the pics. :29: I like the aluminum brackets. Was there any consideration about corrosion from dissimilar metals being mounted together? I think its called galvanic corrosion or electrolysis. I'm probably over thinking this.
You've inspired me to add a B&M cooler to my car too. I think I'll just do the tranny cooler though. I'm not planning on towing anything, but maybe I'll increase the life of my tranny.
Gav, you have the right idea in being concerned about galvanic corrosion. In general galvanic corrosion happens when dissimilar metals are in direct contact AND they are immersed or exposed to an electrolyte; e.g., in the case of plumbing, boat motors, HVAC systems. In other words, unless you park the front end of the car underwater every day, you should be okay. Wet salt spray from the snowy roads in the winter may cause a bit of the galvanic action, but it is not enough to be a concern over the life of a car. Good luck with the install!