Honda Pilot replace door lock actuator rear door

[94eg!]

Yeah, they canceled that the 1st of this year. I e-mailed them about it, but they ignored me.

Right now the best one going is www.OEMAcuraParts.com. They sell both Honda and Acura parts so you can order everything together if you own both brands like me (only some parts cross over to both brands). If you use coupon code "GALAGA" you get 50% off shipping over $20. If you order over $500 you get free shipping with coupon code "SPYHUNTER". Plus they price match anybody else. Contact Tim or Denis on the website for price matching.

[dmitchell343]

I have read and researched and watched You Tubes ad nauseum on this operation of replacing an actuator, especially the part about the dreaded three latch screws. SO - I took my little DeWalt impact driver (battery operated) and put a number 3 "Reed Prince" bit in it and they came out without any issue. Every post I have seen has said they are "Phillips" screws - they are not. A Reed Prince differs from a Phillips in that it doesnt have a sharp point on the end. Using a Phillips holds the gripping part of the bit away from the shoulders of the screw.

[cunylaw]

I have everything done except for the physical removal of the actuator. I seem to be missing something here - I had trouble with the 3 screws, but I did get them out... what is next, I think the actuator is just the black piece, but I can't seem to get that off of the white piece?? any help would be greatly appreciated!! thanks

[merlocka]

Just replaced my RR actuator. I'll share my tips.

First of all... ARGH that I didn't find this earlier. My RR was the last to go out, I could have saved like 750 bucks.

The instructions are very helpful. The areas that I'll comment on are where I found some difficulty. This applies to right-rear only. Not sure if fronts are different.

1) Everything went very smooth. I used a heat gun and break-free, and the 3 screws holding the assembly came out with ease. Make sure you have a #3 phillips, no need on stripping screws because of wrong tool.

2) You will have to unclip and detach all rods which connect the external door handle, internal door handle, and door lock. Take notes on how these connect back up. And remember to re-connect :-) (see below)

3) Removing the assembly is the biggest problem. The OP's notes say to remove door bracket. I must be crazy but in my 04 there was no bracket I could remove. It was solid piece all the way to top of window. I had to do some geometry to get the assembly out. In a nutshell, rotate it south, then twist it around the bracket. Be careful. It will come out though.

4) When you get the assembly out. Be careful. I can see if you aren't paying attention you can send parts flying and not know how to put it back together. Use your camera phone to take picture before you take it apart. Once you have it out, and see how it works, replacing the actuator is easy.

5) Be careful on the re-assembly. I'm normally careful and I forgot to connect the external door latch rod :-)

Thanks to OP for this thread. Although I regret paying dealer to replace first 3 units, I saved $250 in labor and it was 90 minutes. If I had to do it again I could probably hit 45 minutes, and I'm not a mechanic.

2004 Pilot EX, door actuators are the only thing that has broken. Love my Pilot.

[tangotango99]

Originally Posted by merlocka

Just replaced my RR actuator. I'll share my tips.

First of all... ARGH that I didn't find this earlier. My RR was the last to go out, I could have saved like 750 bucks.

The instructions are very helpful. The areas that I'll comment on are where I found some difficulty. This applies to right-rear only. Not sure if fronts are different.

1) Everything went very smooth. I used a heat gun and break-free, and the 3 screws holding the assembly came out with ease. Make sure you have a #3 phillips, no need on stripping screws because of wrong tool.

2) You will have to unclip and detach all rods which connect the external door handle, internal door handle, and door lock. Take notes on how these connect back up. And remember to re-connect :-) (see below)

3) Removing the assembly is the biggest problem. The OP's notes say to remove door bracket. I must be crazy but in my 04 there was no bracket I could remove. It was solid piece all the way to top of window. I had to do some geometry to get the assembly out. In a nutshell, rotate it south, then twist it around the bracket. Be careful. It will come out though.

4) When you get the assembly out. Be careful. I can see if you aren't paying attention you can send parts flying and not know how to put it back together. Use your camera phone to take picture before you take it apart. Once you have it out, and see how it works, replacing the actuator is easy.

5) Be careful on the re-assembly. I'm normally careful and I forgot to connect the external door latch rod :-)

Thanks to OP for this thread. Although I regret paying dealer to replace first 3 units, I saved $250 in labor and it was 90 minutes. If I had to do it again I could probably hit 45 minutes, and I'm not a mechanic.

2004 Pilot EX, door actuators are the only thing that has broken. Love my Pilot.

I will try the heat gun trick Thanks for the advice.

[gvictora]

Okay, I'm trying to replace my 2003 Pilot's driver's door actuator. The instructions in this thread have been very helpful, but I still need help!!

I was able to get access by removing the door panel, etc. Even got the 3 door latch screws out without too much problem. (used a #3 Phillips head bit on an 18" breaker bar.) I removed the window channel and disconnected the 2 electrical connections to the actuator. But, then I couldn't figure out how to get the door latch/actuator actually out of the car. How do I disconnect the wire latches that connect to the door lock and the door handle? And it seemed like something else was connected to it as well. It's tough to see in there and I was afraid to pull too hard on the metal rods as to not break anything. After an hour, I gave up and put everything back together.

Can someone give me instructions on what has to be physically disconnected from the lock/actuator assembly to get it out of the car? And, how to disconnect them? Those plastic clips that hold the metal connecting rods look pretty fragile. I tried and tried, but for the life of me, I couldn't get any of them disconnected.

Any help would be much appreciated! And would make me look good in my wife's eyes again!

Vic in NC

[kevinwillis557]

I am in the middle of this removal. I have a 2003 Pilot. I am doing the passenger rear. Once you get it out, you need to unscrew the one black screw holding the back brass colored plate on. BE CAREFUL! you need to keep all those little moving parts in place.

[kevinwillis557]

I completed the removal. The hardest part is getting the outer door handle disconnected from the locking mechanism. Once done, remove and replace.

[Spiny Norman]

Just completed the the right front and right rear doors. It took a couple of hours. Fiddly, sometimes you need an extra hand, but not too difficult. At first I didn't think I'd remember where all the rods connected to but it was all pretty logical.

I was a little surprised that the three screws came out easy and the inside of the doors looked like they'd been worked on. Then I remembered we'd had body work done on that side a few years ago after a crazy driver hit us from the rear and scraped himself all down that side.

Thanks for all the write ups guys, my wife is happy to have all doors centrally locking and unlocking.

btw I also have a door handle that doesn't spring back into place when opened. The door opens and closes and locks and unlocks but I suspect there's a spring broken inside somewhere. Anyone have a "how to"? Does that sould like I need a whiole new door handle?

Thanks guys

[Spiny Norman]

Originally Posted by gvictora

Okay, I'm trying to replace my 2003 Pilot's driver's door actuator. The instructions in this thread have been very helpful, but I still need help!!

I was able to get access by removing the door panel, etc. Even got the 3 door latch screws out without too much problem. (used a #3 Phillips head bit on an 18" breaker bar.) I removed the window channel and disconnected the 2 electrical connections to the actuator. But, then I couldn't figure out how to get the door latch/actuator actually out of the car. How do I disconnect the wire latches that connect to the door lock and the door handle? And it seemed like something else was connected to it as well. It's tough to see in there and I was afraid to pull too hard on the metal rods as to not break anything. After an hour, I gave up and put everything back together.

Can someone give me instructions on what has to be physically disconnected from the lock/actuator assembly to get it out of the car? And, how to disconnect them? Those plastic clips that hold the metal connecting rods look pretty fragile. I tried and tried, but for the life of me, I couldn't get any of them disconnected.

Any help would be much appreciated! And would make me look good in my wife's eyes again!

Vic in NC

In case you still have to do this, I found that if you turn the clip approx 90 degrees the rod always pushed out easily.

[twin07EXLPilots]

I replaced the rear right door actuator on one of my two 2007 exl res pilots today. Big thanks to all the contributors who paved the way. These comments are meant to be supplemental to what's already here.

Dealer wanted $366 incl tax. I got OEM part # 72115-S6A-J01 (right rear) via 3-day fedex from OEMAcuraParts.com for $65 incl tax/shipping. $301 remains in my pocket. (left rear actuator for my pilot is a diff part number: 72155-S5P-A11... and $10 cheaper for some reason.) If you choose, for only about $10 more each, you can buy the entire lock/actuator mechanism already assembled... guess that saves you not having to worry about the mechanism coming apart as you replace the actuator, but it's really not that bad. I went with just the actuator.

This was only my second "moderate" (for me) auto maint task (I previously changed a broken foglight-- sounds simple, but removing the entire bumper cowling to get to it kinda freaked my wife out). I'd put the actuator replacement as a 7/10 for difficulty and the foglight as a 4/10 (if you attempt the foglight, buy the right clip removal tool online!) I'm handy when it comes to home reno stuff, but never do much auto mechanical.

My observations:

Tools: all I really used was my cordless impact driver (see below), large and small phillips screwdriver, small flathead screwdriver, and a flashlight. Also a plastic door trim removal bar (suggest buying a trim removal kit-- they're cheap and handy for removing interior trim that you don't want to scratch)-- but a rigid putty knife would probably work as well.

1. removing the lock arm/bar from the inside door handle/opener: highly recommend flipping your child safety lock to ON (located inside the doorjam near the 3 lock mechanism screws). This extends that arm another 1/2" toward the handle, making it much easier to take apart and reassemble. I also suggest taking pics of the way all the arms attach to each of the various components (the inside handle, the lock knob, and up inside the door where the exterior handle connects.)

2. removing the cupholder/window control piece... I pulled on the inside of the cup holder and it popped out easily. Disconnect the window switch wirebundle and set the piece aside.

3. I removed the vapor barrier plastic very slowly keeping the rubbery caulk stuck to the plastic... some videos on youtube show the tech ripping the sucker down... but if you go slowly, it won't tear and the caulk still had enough tack to reseal it nicely. So go easy. Like others, I pulled it about 1/3 down, starting from the upper corner near the "lock knob"

4. Initially, I removed the 3 lock mechanism screws before removing the arms, but ended up putting the lock screws back in so I wouldn't have to hold the assembly inside the door. So I say disconnect all the arms and wires from the lock/act mech first.

5. the arm connecting to the exterior door handle was toughest for me to get disconnected... it is way up inside the door and tough to get your hand in there. Like the other arms it separates up where there's a white (in my case) plastic connector from the end of the arm to the ext handle mechanism. If flips open like the pink ones on the other components. The rest of the arm stays connected to the lock assembly.

6. I completely removed the arm that goes from the int handle to the lock mech. But photographed the position before removing the arm at the lock side, so I'd get it back together correctly. Good thing they have a little round window for you to look through as you're reconnecting.

7. re: the dreaded "3 lock screws" that come installed very tight from the factory... I used my 18v cordless DeWalt impact driver. That was the right tool for the job. Piece of cake with this and a #3 phillips.

8. to get the lock/actuator assembly out of the door, I did NOT remove the bolts to the window track, but DID have to separate the longish white plastic "door rod protector" piece (that guides the knob arm) from the lock/actuator assembly. Like other folks, it then took some time to figure out how to rotate the sucker around to get it out. Bit of a puzzle. In the end, mine went pretty much straight down staying on the inside (toward interior of car) of the window guide rail.

9. like others have said, be VERY careful when separating the actuator from the lock mechanism. I strongly rec taking lots of pics from different angles before you start fiddling with it. And bring it inside, so if someting falls apart you don't lose anything. Like others, I removed the one screw and removed the silver plate very very carefully (so the child safety rocker didn't come apart.) Use your small flathead screwdriver for this. Then you'll be able to separate your dead actuator and put the new one on.

Victory! Now reassemble then crack a cold one. Good luck.