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#31 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Huntington Beach CA
Posts: 75
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Add me to the list of pissed off people who cant get the ****ing screw out! This is so rediculas. It's the only vehicle I've ever had this problem with. Both fobs are dead! ARRRGGG! Time to get busy with the drill. Well maybe I'll try the dealer but I'm not buying new fobs and having them reprogrammed.
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06 Pilot Ex 4WD (RIP Old Friend) 08 Acura MDX New Family Truckster - Wifes 2011 Tacoma 4x4 Double Cab TRD Off-Road - Mine |
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#32 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: ohio
Posts: 19
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I'm going to take mine to the dealer.
"Can you put a new battery in these?" "Sure" "How much?" "$10 each" "Gee, that's a lot. Will they be just like new?" "Of course, we're a Honda dealer!" "Guaranteed?" "Of course, we're a Honda dealer!" |
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#33 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Huntington Beach CA
Posts: 75
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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OK third time is a charm! I got that SOB out by heating it up with a soldering iron as stated a few posts ago. Also had to use a jewelers flathead due to the stripped screw. Thank You to all once again! Love this site, now I have to find the batteries.
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06 Pilot Ex 4WD (RIP Old Friend) 08 Acura MDX New Family Truckster - Wifes 2011 Tacoma 4x4 Double Cab TRD Off-Road - Mine Last edited by CNJ; 01-25-2011 at 11:58 AM. |
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#34 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Pewaukee WI
Posts: 1,605
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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$10 to replace the battery in the remote? I think the battery alone is a few bucks, so probably well worth it. In addition, if they end up stripping the screw or damaging the remote, they'll probably replace it for free.
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1995 Yamaha FZR600 2005 Honda Pilot EX-L (Desert Rock Metallic, side steps, crossbars, rear splash guards, wheel locks, towing package, full-size spare on EX rim) 2007 Honda Accord EX-L V6 sedan (Alabaster Silver Metallic, splash guards, wheel locks) |
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#36 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Metro West Boston
Posts: 97
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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The battery in the key fob conked out today. Got home and tried the spare. Same thing. The light does not flash at all on either. The spare sat in the drawer all the time and has only been used once or twice in five+ years. I was surprised both keys died at the same time. I read the postings here and was amply forewarned about stripping the tiny screw.
I clamp the key down on a bench corner to free up both hands. My left hand bears down on a Size 0 jeweler's philips driver (with hardened tip) to prevent cam out. My right hand operates a vice grip applied to the ridged shank of the screw driver. It took all but a minute to do both keys. I checked the open-circuit voltage of the CR1616 batteries. They are both down around 2.4 Volts. A new battery should read 3V+. |
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#37 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 188
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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The trick for me was to use heat from a soldering iron and then a Hozan #0 Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screwdriver.
JIS looks like Phillips, but it's different. The JIS driver will not cam out of the screw. If you spend time working on Japanese machinery, a quality JIS screwdriver set is a VG investment. You'll know when you are looking at a JIS screw when you see a small dimple or dot in one quadrant of the cross. Smaller screws do not always have the dot, but on #1 and larger, it's usually present. pics of dimples here: http://www.instructables.com/files/d...Z4L.MEDIUM.jpg |
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#38 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Staten Island, NY
Posts: 79
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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If any of you damages your key, there are shells available for replacement. You transfer the electronics to the new shell, have the blade cut, and you're in business. No programming necessary.
A good automotive locksmith will have these, or can get them.
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2005 Pilot EXL 2006 Accord EX I4 2010 Mariner V6 |
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#40 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Waconia, MN
Posts: 113
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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My wife stopped at NAPA when her key's battery was dead. They sold her a battery and replaced it for free. I'm having her take the other key (also dead battery) to NAPA for replacement. It saves me stripping the screw.
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2007 Pilot LX 2004 Suzuki V-Strom |
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#43 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Hampton Roads
Posts: 1
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
Honda also appears to use screws with extremely soft metal to make it easier to strip them. I find that the best way to replace the battery once the screw is stripped is to follow this procedure: Tools you will need: Heatgun (like a blow dryer, but higher in temperature) Flathead Screwdriver (Small head is best) Exacto-knife (1) 2016 size lithium coin cell battery (yours may vary) Rubber mallet 1) Use a heat gun to soften the plastic, I used about 600 degrees fahrenheit. 2) Using a flat head screwdriver, gently widen the screw hole a very small amount. 3) Pry the key fob apart with an exacto-knife to cut through the melted plastic. The screw should fit through the now-widened hole. 4) Replace battery (duh.) 5) You may need to use a rubber mallet and additional plastic-softening with the heat-gun to snap the fob back together. And if you don't feel like doing all that, most batteries plus stores have all the required tools and batteries, and charge 7.99 for replacement. You may have to tell them about this technique though or they'll just try to get the screw out and say it's impossible. Most customers tip me a little extra when I do this since I think it's like a $100 cost if you go to the dealership. |
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#44 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 1
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I had stripped the screw on my key fob long before I found this post. The dealership said if they couldn't remove the screw that I would have to buy a whole new key fob plus pay for programming. All about $120. Since I realized the screw's metal was soft, I took a jewelers phillips head and tapped it a couple of times with a hammer, then slowly turned the screw. I had to tap the screw driver one more time when it started slipping again. I was happy to see the screw backing out and was even happier when it came out!! I bought a new battery (CR1616) for about $4 after tax at Batteries Plus. I know I could have found it cheaper elsewhere but was happy to not have to drive all over town. I don't see the need for the Loctite on the screw. I'm sure Honda means well as they have a reputation to uphold, but perhaps they should recall the key fobs (or key fob screws) since this is a huge issue. I thought it was just me until I found this forum. I had thought about heating the screw with a soldering iron but managed to get it out with my hammer method. Now I just need to hunt down a new screw.
Last edited by jaylweb; 05-03-2012 at 09:06 AM. Reason: Typos and clarity |
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#45 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Pewaukee WI
Posts: 1,605
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
Maybe someone at Honda thought that the screw becoming loose and falling out was going to be an issue. Or maybe they just saw it as another potential revenue stream for dealers. BTW - I've heard if you take the fob into a dealer to have them replace the battery, they will give you a new fob and program it for free if they end up damaging it while trying to get the screw out. I have no idea what they'd charge to replace the battery at the dealer, but I would think it's less than $120. Something to think about the next time the battery needs replacing.
__________________
1995 Yamaha FZR600 2005 Honda Pilot EX-L (Desert Rock Metallic, side steps, crossbars, rear splash guards, wheel locks, towing package, full-size spare on EX rim) 2007 Honda Accord EX-L V6 sedan (Alabaster Silver Metallic, splash guards, wheel locks) |
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