Brake trouble. - Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums
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post #1 of 76 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Brake trouble.

05 honda pilot
Yesterday my front drivers side brake was dragging. I got home and it was literally smoking hot. One at a time i changed my pads, hose, and caliper in that order. It got a little better i thought but on a very short test drive it got hot again and so did the rear passanger side tire so now its two. Whats goin on??? Help please i need my ride! Thank you - sean michael
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post #2 of 76 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Also... How do i know how far to tighten the hose bolt? Doesnt the hole have to line up with the one on the hose? Could that be an issue?
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post #3 of 76 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 09:20 AM
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It sounds like your brakes stuck - could be either the calipers or the slider pins not working properly. Did you note the wear patterns on the pads? Did they have the same thickness? This may help determine the problem with your brakes. Did you also clean and re-lube the slider pins? Look up the specs for the torque value for the bolts ( I don't have that info without looking them up in the service manual). I doubt that the brake hose would cause the brake to heat up.

May want to consider bringing it to the shop.
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post #4 of 76 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 12:06 PM
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It would make sense to suspect a seized pin or piston, but he said he replaced the caliper.
Unless of course the new caliper is seized too...

I do not know if the holes have to be lined up, but if they did not and that was a problem, I would expect the caliper not to grab. You are saying it grabs and seizes. Weird.



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post #5 of 76 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Yes its very strange and aggravating. The slide pins are moving freely. Yes the brakes grab and then do not let go.
If i try to compress the caliper with a c-clamp it won't budge, but if I disconnect the hose from it it compressed normally with a c-clamp. That's why I was told it was probably the hose. Brand new hose, no change. After it cooled off I torked the bolt a little tighter and felt like the brake wasn't grabbing as bad but after a few blocks it was steaming hot again. Could it be in the master cylinder?
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post #6 of 76 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 12:47 PM
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I would suspect the master cylinder.

You have diagonally opposed brake calipers locking up, left front and right rear according to your description.

Honda didn't use the traditional "Front/Rear" division in the master cylinder. One output pressurizes the LF/RR calipers, while the other master cylinder output pressurizes the RF/LR calipers

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post #7 of 76 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you! That is the only scenario I could imagine making sense but I thought surely the master isn't set up like that! So glad you say it is because that makes sense. If i ever get off work I'll put a new one in and bleed the lines and report back. Thank you everybody who replied, this is a great forum.
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post #8 of 76 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 04:15 PM
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If Pilot's master cylider is anything like my '91 Accord's, than it is possible.

I had a problem where front and rear and left and right had drastically unequal braking forces, and the mechanic disassembled the master cylinder to find a few particles of what looked like sand inside. He ended up removing the balancer valve completely and that solved the problem.

I do not advocate for alterations of the brake components, we had to resort to that for a good reason back then.



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post #9 of 76 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 08:55 AM
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One of the valves in the anti-lock brake servo could be sticking also.


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post #10 of 76 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Well i tried replacing the mast cyl but AutoZone sold me the wrong one. Inlet holes were much smaller than the lines. Won't have one in until tomorrow. I was going to clean out the old one and try it then I noticed one of the inlet holes had a gasket in it, but it was missing from the other. I'm guessing that could be the cornerstone of my issue. I'll swap out in the AM when they get it in and report back
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post #11 of 76 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Update.... Please heeeeeelllppp.... I swapped mast cyl. Apparently didnt line it.up right because the push rod in the power booster punctured the plastic seal in the mast cyl... Replaced it AGAIN now everything works except the rear passenger side and the breaks are too easy to press. On the rear passenger side its locked up. If i loosen the bleeder it moves.smoothly.but WITH NO BRAKES. went to remove caliper and caliper bolts are so stuck in the pins they just keep spinning the pins around right through the little cut-out thats supposed to stop them. I got the top out by putting a screw driver between the top of the pin and the caliper but the bottom wont come out. 1) why are these things so hard to het out? Can the pins slide properly like this? And why is the.pedal so spongy / loose? We bled every wheel.
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post #12 of 76 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 04:32 PM
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Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it?

You need the fittings and flex tubing to do it properly

If you got one caliper bolt out, you should be able to pivot the caliper away from the rotor, and then remove the entire caliper and lower pin together.

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post #13 of 76 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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I bled the master with it installed because I can't install it with the reservoir attached due to the poor placement of the stud / nut going directly behind it. I did finally get the bolt and caliper off, still spongy brakes and locking piston can not BELIEVE I'm having this much trouble with brakes!!!
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post #14 of 76 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 08:16 PM
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You need to clarify, with the new master cylinder installed, did you bleed it BEFORE booking up the brake lines? If you didn't, you pushed a lot of air into the system, and the ABS pump. After you get the rear caliper working properly, you could try a few panic stops to activate the abs, which could help purge the air from the pump. An additional bleeding of the calipers may give the air an avenue of escape.

If this doesn't work, you will most likely need to have the brakes bled while activtIng the abs pump with a scan tool.

Regarding the passenger rear caliper not releasing, it my have been damaged from the heat when it locked up due to the faulty master cylinder.

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post #15 of 76 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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At first we just hooked it up and did not bleed it. Then after the calipers wouldnt bleed right we decided to disconnect the lines and bleed it in place using the tubes. Since then the calipers all bleed right but the brake pedal feels like just pushing air. I agree the heat may have caused damage. I bought new slide pins and boots and waiting on new hose in the morning.
From what youre saying it sounds like ive created extra work by forcing air into the system. How do i go about reaolving that? Thank you for your help. Feeling very ? about this. I spent all my savings on this thing so i wouldnt have to have these problems
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