Better brake pads? - Page 2 - Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 11:14 PM
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Thanks for the clarification. Since you know what your talking about. Would the EBC pads performance justify its price over the powerstop pads?
I personally would not spend 150 on 1 set of pads. The EBC pads might be a little bit better, but not 100$ dollars more than the 55$ set of powerstop z23 pads. Maybe if you were racing the SUV or towing heavy trailers without trailer brakes. Yes SS brake lines will give you a better pedal feel at your foot, since they wont expand. If you want better performance, your going to need to upgrade your pads. I race motorcycles and i run magnesium and carbon fiber wheels on my bikes. Rotating mass is very crucial when it comes to acceleration and braking on vehicles.

Good luck!
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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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XGS, the OP complained of poor performance right after he changed his wheels and tires. He made no complaint when he had the 18 stock wheel and tires on his pilot. His car is a 2014 with 32,000 miles on it, so i would think it is safe to say his lines would be in good condition. Bluensleep, do you think you put a knot in your brake line when you remounted your calipers?
Everything was mount properly. I original thought it was the wheels being to heavy. Sort of the opposite effect of someone lightning up the flywheel. Hopefully I will get it done next week. And I will go with the powerstop pads.

Thanks dirtninja and xgs for the advice.
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 02:04 AM
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[edit] Never mind. Missed a bunch of posts.

Last edited by Wanderer; 01-07-2017 at 04:07 AM. Reason: Shoulda read before posting, duh.
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 03:29 AM
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I race motorcycles and i run magnesium and carbon fiber wheels on my bikes. Rotating mass is very crucial when it comes to acceleration and braking on vehicles.
I ran ultralight tubular tires ( glued onto the carbon fiber rims ) of my racing bicycles. So what? In driving my SUV, I seldom find it necessary to accelerate suddenly to grab the draft of a passing vehicle, or late-brake into a turn so I can hold my speed as long as possible. Pilot isn't a race car. She would be a damn portly one if she tried. Overall weight matters just as much as rotating weight, in fact usually overall weight matters more. I'm not saying rotating weight doesn't matter, I'm saying I don't think that the change to somewhat heavier wheels on an SUV is likely to produce a night-and-day difference in braking feel. I sure don't notice it when I change from summer to winter wheels and tires. I notice other differences, but not braking feel.

Ignoring a potential underlying mechanical issue, while continuing to layer on aftermarket "performance enhancements", could have dire consequences in this particular scenario. Usually it just wastes money. Been there, done that...
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 04:06 AM
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I believe you are right that the issue is related to the brake line.
Oops. I'm preaching to the choir. Going to bed now.
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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 09:55 AM
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Wanderer, im sure we all have good points in this debate. There could be 10 different reasons why the OP vehicle performance is suffering but neither of us can diagnosis this on the internet without seeing or test driving his car. Im hoping bluensleepy properly cleaned his rotors before he swapped them out with his new ones.

Peace out guys.
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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Wanderer, im sure we all have good points in this debate. There could be 10 different reasons why the OP vehicle performance is suffering but neither of us can diagnosis this on the internet without seeing or test driving his car. Im hoping bluensleepy properly cleaned his rotors before he swapped them out with his new ones.

Peace out guys.
Rotors were cleaned and installed correctly. I did some googling and saw this statement (The additional weight of the wheels also makes the vehicle take longer to stop, said Andrew Markel, editor of the trade journal Brake and Front End magazine). Others post that every pound of rotational mass equals 7x to 10x in unsprung weight. So going by 7x would equate to roughly 400lbs. Who knows what is the right or wrong answer at this point. On my previous sedans I have always change wheels with no issues. But then again the braking on the pilot is lackluster to begin with. I am hoping for a simple fix.

Last edited by Bluensleepy; 01-07-2017 at 02:02 PM.
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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I ran ultralight tubular tires ( glued onto the carbon fiber rims ) of my racing bicycles. So what? In driving my SUV, I seldom find it necessary to accelerate suddenly to grab the draft of a passing vehicle, or late-brake into a turn so I can hold my speed as long as possible. Pilot isn't a race car. She would be a damn portly one if she tried. Overall weight matters just as much as rotating weight, in fact usually overall weight matters more. I'm not saying rotating weight doesn't matter, I'm saying I don't think that the change to somewhat heavier wheels on an SUV is likely to produce a night-and-day difference in braking feel. I sure don't notice it when I change from summer to winter wheels and tires. I notice other differences, but not braking feel.

Ignoring a potential underlying mechanical issue, while continuing to layer on aftermarket "performance enhancements", could have dire consequences in this particular scenario. Usually it just wastes money. Been there, done that...
I am not ignoring the issue, that is why I am post here now.
It only started after the rims were put on.

Last edited by Bluensleepy; 01-07-2017 at 01:58 PM.
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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 03:00 PM
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I am not ignoring the issue, that is why I am post here now.
It only started after the rims were put on.
Yeah, I get that now. I was just worried you were chasing a rabbit down a hole and ignoring the bear.

Good luck with it.
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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yeah, i get that now. I was just worried you were chasing a rabbit down a hole and ignoring the bear.

Good luck with it.


LoL! Thanks!

Last edited by Bluensleepy; 01-07-2017 at 03:19 PM.
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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 08:23 PM
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Unless you feel the abs unit pumping the brakes chances are the additional grip of the lower profile and flatter wider tread contact patch is making the issue noticable, first bleed the brakes and check the lines, then change the pads, AutoZone gold's are a really competent Street use ceramic pad and they are lifetime warranty.
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Just an update. I went with EBC premium rear rotors. The pads were still good so I did not change them. Test drive was good the brake feel and initial bite was much better. I will post back after 6 month to see how they hold up.


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