95 Accord Check Engine Light?

[Wolfman_matt]

As a long time Honda owner I also have a trouble free 95 accord with 181k on the clock. This past week the check engine light came on going down the highway after about 10 minutes of driving (have never had it illuminated before).

The manual says the light indicates an emissions system problem.

I called Autozone/Advance Auto and they have a decoder for 96 and newer models they will check for free but apparently not compatible with 95 and older.

My car no longer falls under the emissions regulations in the state of North Carolina because it is a 95 or older model.

Car seems to run normal and gas mileage doesn't appear to be effected.

Am I doing any damage here? I'm told its $75-100 to have the code read just to diagnose. What are the probable causes? Oxygen sensor?

Anybody have experience with this type of thing?

Thanks
Matt

[jay]

You might want to post at driveaccord.net also.

[ictvuser]

Originally posted by Wolfman_matt
I called Autozone/Advance Auto and they have a decoder for 96 and newer models they will check for free but apparently not compatible with 95 and older.

This is true for the V4 95 Accord. However, if you have a V6 95 Accord, then the car does have a OBDII Data Link Connector (DLC) and Autozone should be able to retrieve the code.

Originally posted by Wolfman_matt
Am I doing any damage here? I'm told its $75-100 to have the code read just to diagnose. What are the probable causes? Oxygen sensor?

If you have a V4 95 Accord, the following sites have instructions on how to retreive the diagnostic code without a reader.

http://www.troublecodes.net/honda/
http://library.motoralldata.com/tech..._DTC_Honda.htm
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1171263&page=1

With ignition off, insert jumper wire in service check connector terminals, located behind right side of dash on Accord, Civic and Civic Del Sol and near center console on Prelude.
Turn ignition switch to ON position. Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) will be indicated by a series of long and short flashes on MIL.
The number of long flashes indicates the number in the 10s column. The number of short flashes indicates the number in the 1s column. For example, 4 long flashes followed by 3 short flashes would indicate DTC 43.

A brief description of the codes can be found here.

http://www.troublecodes.net/honda/hondadtc.shtml

[Wolfman_matt]

I've now gotten the code read on my check engine light and its definitely my oxygen sensor.

I'm considering a DIY job.

The sensor is easily accessible but from what I can tell it can be frozen in place and may need to be heated to get it loose.

It also requires a special socket with an opening down the side for the wiring. I've seen some of these online and they look like 7/8" with 3/8" drive. Is this the standard size?

Has any done one of these lately on a Honda? Is so your feedback would be helpful.

Thanks

[Layspeed]

Originally posted by Wolfman_matt
I've now gotten the code read on my check engine light and its definitely my oxygen sensor.

I'm considering a DIY job.

The sensor is easily accessible but from what I can tell it can be frozen in place and may need to be heated to get it loose.

It also requires a special socket with an opening down the side for the wiring. I've seen some of these online and they look like 7/8" with 3/8" drive. Is this the standard size?

Has any done one of these lately on a Honda? Is so your feedback would be helpful.

Thanks

Wolfman, 7/8" is the standard size for most oxygen sensors and is the size you'll be needing. It is a pretty straight forward remove and replace repair. Just make sure you have a long enough ratchet for leverage to break it loose and make sure you don't over tighten the new one. It should come with some anti-seize to put on the threads, don't use too much though.

Also I would recommend getting a OEM sensor or at least a Denso or NTK sensor from an import parts distributor in your area. I've personally had bad luck with cheap aftermarket Oxygen sensors and make sure whatever sensor you get has the correct plug on it, not a universal cut & splice unit. Good luck. Oh, after the repair, you can clear the codes by removing the "BACK UP" fuse in the under hood fuse box for 10 seconds, but you'll have to reset your radio presets also.

[Wolfman_matt]

Layspeed - thanks for your help - I got the sensor replaced yesterday. It took some effort to get the old one out - heating and soaking in W40 several times but I finally got it out. I found that if I took the heat shield off I had better access and could use a standard box wrench. I had the slotted socket but couldn't really get much leverage on it.

I went with a Denso sensor I found on Ebay for about $60 and it seems to work fine after using your tip on resetting my check engine light.

My local mechanic wanted about $200 bucks so in addition to improving my mechanic skills I saved a few bucks. Hopefully I'll also a bump in my gas mileage.

I imagine a rear sensor would be a little more of a challenge but I'm confident the next time one fails on me.

Matt