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Not sure where people on here get their rotors turned.
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I've had a few pair done at O'Reilly Auto Parts (Plano, TX) and all have gone well.
Just a comment on Pilot brake bleeding... I notice the position of the bleed screw is high on the caliper, obviously put there to prevent capturing of air. When open, fluid dribbles out slowly. This shows a positive flow of fluid from the fluid reservoir to the bleed screw.
I changed my brake fluid by going around to each screw, opening it up, attached a 12" clear rubber hose, and pumped fluid through with the brake pedal until it appeared lighter in color in the clear rubber hose. This took about 4-5 pumps per brake. But when not pumping, fluid still dribbled out. I never let the reservoir run dry.
Years ago when doing brakes, I had to have someone slowly push the brake pedal while I tightened the bleed screw, to ge the air out. There was no positive flow when the bleed valve was open.
So if we have this positive flow, why do we need to use bleeder kits? I did all four side this way and had no air trapping problem - brakes are solid as a rock.
Also, I was at 45K miles and my brakes were pulsing / grabbing when stopping. The guy who turned the rotors said he only took off .001 on each side, and they cleaned up completely - so they really were not warped, which surprised me. I installed Wagner MX943 pads and it really stops well now - no pulsing anymore. They seemed expensive to me, $58.99 for a set. "Oh well" - look what I saved.
Thank you for the post on how to get the rotor off! I would have not noticed the two small screws. I was about to go after the axle nut to remove the rotor!