Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums banner

2012 EXL Stereo Build

92K views 73 replies 21 participants last post by  Gcortezc1 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
2012 EXL Stereo Build
This may sound extreme to some people, but I spend a lot of time behind the wheel. I have been known to drive 900 miles a day and listening to music just breaks up time.
The original plan was to keep the stock head unit (the cheap non-Navigational head unit) and just build on from there, so I installed the following:

Morel Hybrid 6 inch component speaker (fronts)
Morel Tempo 6" coax with external crossover (rear fill)
Audio Control LCQ-1 6 channel EQ factory interface module with accubass
Audio Control Matrix Plus 6-channel line driver
JL Audio HD 900/5 5 channel amplifier
JL Audio TW5 thin woofer

Basic Layout: The Morel drivers where mounted in the stock speakers locations. The JL Amp and Sub were mounted in the cubby/ headrest storage area. The JL Flat Sub is in a sealed box (just a bit smaller than JL recommends and yes it can pound out the bass).

After the installation and many hours tweaking the system overall sound was great except for two items.

FIRST: while the head unit was warming up/communicating with the rest of the Pilot you could hear and electronic noise through the newly installed drivers. After a few seconds of this noise it would clear up and sound good. This could have been overcome by a simple toggle switch, turning off the amp until the radio was up and running. I tried a delay turn on, but this would not delay the amp long enough so that idea was ditched. Auto Control also confirmed that the problem was with the Honda head unit and doubted that using a Clear Sweep would be any better.

SECOND: The stock head unit produced a “floor noise” that I could hear, the average person would say wow what a system. But I have had some fairly high end systems in the past I wanted that high end sound in the Pilot. This could not be overcome (I was asking just too much of the stock head unit).

My answer was to ditch the stock head unit in favor of a Kenwood KDC-X996 In-Dash CD Receiver and the Audio Control L QC. This unit has the navigation, time alignment and EQ settings to fine tune the system. The only problem was where to put it? The logical spot was where the stock unit is, so the disassembly started with a new custom made center dash. I hope to have this finished this weekend and will post pictures when done.
 
See less See more
#41 · (Edited)
Toolman....Can you explain this alittle more in detail.....you said " I ran the power cable from the battery, tapped into the existing subwoofer output of the stock HU and added a 500W amp and 12" subwoofer using a level converter." I believe this is exactly what I need to do in order to add my Rockford Punch 400 and sub. At this time I want to keep the OEM unit and all the OEM speakers connected. How would I go up installing the amp to the OEM system? Do I need additional equipment?
Great Thread, pictures and information.
Thank You
 
#42 ·
You will need a line level converter and cable to attach it to the amp. I used a Metra 80-Watt Adjustable Line Output Converter. You also need a cable to connect it to your amp. I used a Steren RCA Y-Adapter - 1 Male To 2 Male. I got both on Amazon for $17 shipped. I only used one channel of the level converter and then used the Y adapter to feed both channels of the amp. The reason I did it that way is because the level converter puts a load on the HU. I'm not sure what that load it but if you use both channels, the impedance will be 1/2 lower. So if the converter has a 4 ohm load, paralleling both channels will yield a 2 ohm load and that may be too much for the HU. Next, you need to figure out which cable on the back of the HU (LX, EX or EX-L without Navi or RES) or external amp (Navi, RES or Touring) goes to the subwoofer. I used crimp on taps to tap into the wires without having to cut anything. You can get those at Home Depot or Lowes. Last, you have to disable the ANC microphones. Someone said you can unplug a cable from the ANC unit but I believe in my model (EX-L non-Navi) that the ANC electronics are built into the HU so I had to disable the front and rear ANC mics. I posted on how to do that. As an FYI, the car is significantly louder when it goes into ECO mode without ANC. It depends on what speed and load is on the engine but it is noticeable. So you have to decide if that bothers you. You can do some testing by going into the diagnostic mode of the radio (Hold Preset buttons 1 & 6 while powering radio on). Then toggle ANC off using the Preset 1 button. You will have to toggle it on and off several times as the first few times you turn it off, you will hear a hum at varying levels. Once you have it off with no hum, drive around town and on the highway at different speeds to decide if the noise bothers you. If not, disconnect the ANC mics and you are ready to install the amp. If you don't disable the ANC, you will get a loud rumble through your sub.

As far as running the power cable, I posted some annotated pictures of that. I found that it is easiest to poke a hole in the firewall grommet from the inside, near the e-brake pedal. The outside is covered by the brake master cylinder so you can't get at it easily but will see the wire emerge into the engine compartment as you start feeding it. A little electrical lubricant on the wire makes it pull much easier without damaging the grommet and you can make a very small hole in the grommet that will seal tightly around your power cable that way without having to silicone it. If you are putting the amp under the driver's seat, you can probably get away with #6 or #8 wire. I went for the passenger seat so I ran #4. Then you just run speaker wire from the HU sub output to the level converter (which goes right next to the amp).

Good luck and if you have any other questions, drop me a line.

Joe

Toolman....Can you explain this alittle more in detail.....you said " I ran the power cable from the battery, tapped into the existing subwoofer output of the stock HU and added a 500W amp and 12" subwoofer using a level converter." I believe this is exactly what I need to do in order to add my Rockford Punch 400 and sub. At this time I want to keep the OEM unit and all the OEM speakers connected. How would I go up installing the amp to the OEM system? Do I need additional equipment?
Great Thread, pictures and information.
Thank You
 
#62 ·
Hey Toolman,

So I've received much feedback and it's split 50/50 on how to do this, maybe you can help?

Trying to install aftermarket sub/amp in a 2013 EX-L. I want to disable the factory sub. If I am adding in a LOC and disabling the factory sub, do I want to tap into the subwoofer line coming FROM the factory sub amp (high level, where is it?), the rear speakers (then I can't control the sub through the head unit) or tap the sub line BEFORE the amp? I've been told the LOC (PAC LP72 with a gain) will convert the speaker level signal to a line level signal if I go in after the amp and then I will still retain control of the new amp and sub level from the HU, which I want to do. Thought, please? Thanks.
 
#43 ·
I thought I would up-date this post. When I started this build I was using the Kenwood 990, after using it for some time the unit would just freeze-up. Then I would have to turn the car off and the unit would come back to life.

So this week I up-graded to the new Kenwood 890, what a pleasant difference. Everything works smoother and faster, the Aha, Pandora SMS all work as they should from my Samsung Note II.

Here are some new pictures of the new 890.
 

Attachments

#48 ·
Nice work there DMG...

Haven't been around in awhile...

My "install team" (LOL) tried to talk me into Morel. They sound nice (and cost $$) but I already had the JL Stuff from my wrecked Element - so I was 1/2-way there already. With the trade-in for my old JL Amps and subs from the Element - it was more cost-effective for me to put in the 900/5, make a sub box (2X TW-5's) and roll with the Factory Nav Head Unit (Alpine versus the cheezy Panasonic in the non-nav).

Rick
 
#54 ·
2013 with Nav upgrade



Sounds similar to what I want to do, but will probably have a shop do most of the work. I just want to make sure I understand what will work and what won't. I have the 'premium' system with nav, 10 speakers, 650 watts, etc. Not impressed. It does have a separate sub control in the head unit. I assume that means there is a pre-amp out sub signal that I could use and retain the sub control in the head unit. The shop I talked to where the guy seemed to know a lot about how the Pilot was set up said no, I would just have to branch off one of the rear speakers and lose that functionality. Anybody know why that would be?
Thanks!
 
#49 ·
Thank you Rick,
When I started this mess I planned on using your build as my guide and use the stock Pana. head unit (oops, that's not a head unit but a plain old radio). The non-Nav. unit is so cheap I could not over come the noise (it sounded like a bowl of rice Krispies, snap, crack & pop). If my EX-L had the Nav. unit I would have kept that and the Audio Control interface, like yours.

That's when the build took the extreme right hand turn, installing the Kenwood. The Morel's do sound nice, if I did not have a good friend that "hooked me up" I might have looked at a cheaper alternative. I do like the JL Audio 900/5 HD nice power, very little noise and no high output alternator needed. I am still on the fence on adding a second sub, the amp can handle it but. I am just not sure if it would have that big of a return on the investment.

My big push now is to remove the stock radio, and add second screen in it's place.
 
#50 ·
The 900/5 runs my dual TW's just fine - so adding power is probably un-necessary. I really couldn't believe HOW BAD the Panasonic OEM unit SUCKED.

I would have bought an LX and did a ground-up install - but I wanted LEATHER. Ny the time I priced the leather and accessories I DID WANT - I was already above the EX-L price. And while I could have "lived without" the Power Lift Gate and Sunroof of the NAV trim (and I'm not saying I haven't grown to LOVE THEM, just that I could have lived without them and the PRICE) - I could NOT LIVE WITH THE CRAPPY PANASONIC HEAD UNIT.

As previously mentioned - the integration with the onboard systems at that trim level. Well - you were "damned if you do/damned if you don't". Since I could "afford" the $36K sticker and upgrades to the car - I rolled that way.

OTOH - I'm the guy that had a $7K Stereo in an ELEMENT - so what do I know ANYWAY...

Rick
 
#51 ·
Just a quick up-date. I had some time this last week to work on the dash.

Removed the old crappy Panasonic radio, only to find out the the temperature display is attached to the radio by a ribbon cable. So I had to disassemble the radio and play with the front circuit board so I could get rid of the extra knobs and still have the heater display still work.

Made a carbon fiber cover-up were the old radio was and matched the lower heater control knobs with carbon fiber.


Next big project is to mount either a tablet or a DSP display in the center carbon fiber panel. This will be more of a challenge that I first thought, since most of the stock radio is still behind the center panel. I am trying to avoid a surface mount display.
 

Attachments

#57 ·
I like it and would recommend it.

It is not an SPL sub like the W7, but it is very accurate tight sounding sub. I just got a good deal on a new amp so when I have some free time I will be adding a second one to the system.
 
#61 ·
Sorry to bring back an old post.
I had several PM's on how I changed the LCD display to accept the Kenwood double-din head unit. I could not figure out how to attach pictures to a PM.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: M0T0R1884
#63 ·
Just a quick up-date on some of the improvements from this weekend.

I added a second JL Audio 13TW5 13"flat sub
Replaced the 5 channel JL Amp
Added a JL Audio HD 600/4 for the front & rear speakers
Added a JL Audio HD 1200/1 for the 2 subs
Added a Maestro RR steering wheel control. This not only makes it easy to up-grade the head-unit but it adds the Pilots read-outs on the head-unit.

I will add some more pictures (who knows they may even be clearer) and a review on the Maestro after I have had some more time with it. For now all I can say with the 2 amps you can hear the Pilot coming down the road :p
 

Attachments

#65 ·
To be honest, I just finished the up-date yesterday and when I powered down the system I lost all of the settings (including time alignment, crossover points and EQ settings). I am still adjusting the the Matrix and amp gains, when this is done I will start on the time alignment and EQ settings. It's just like starting all over again.

I do remember I fudged the subs distance quite a bit to bring it more up front.
 
#66 ·
Time for another up-date. The MDF sub box was replace today with a fiberglass box. With the fiberglass box the internal air space is large and comes closer to the mfg specs for the two subs. Another plus is the fiberglass box is about 20 to 30 pounds lighter than the MDF box.

I had a PM asking how to do a fiberglass box so here are some pictures.
 

Attachments

#67 ·
Time for another up-date. The MDF sub box was replace today with a fiberglass box. With the fiberglass box the internal air space is large and comes closer to the mfg specs for the two subs. Another plus is the fiberglass box is about 20 to 30 pounds lighter than the MDF box.

I had a PM asking how to do a fiberglass box so here are some pictures.

Nice update DMG! I know they are playing lower with more volume.
 
#69 ·
Awesome build!! I'm actually hoping you can help me with something.. do you by chance have a wiring diagram for the stock amp? I have a '15 SE and I'm looking to by-pass the stock amp with an aftermarket amp. I'm going to run new wires from the amp to the speakers, but I am hoping you have the diagram that shows which wires going in to the amp are for which speakers.
 
#71 ·
Bit of a necro post, but in case anyone comes with similar question (factory amp wiring), there you go:

Audio-nav connector locations are if looking at unit back
Pin numbers: looking at wire side of connector with lock tab up, top row first, then bottom.
Connector A(24P) (bottom left)
6/7 (yello/brown) RR +/- preamp
10/11 (pink/lt blue) RL -/+ preamp
17 (yellow) SW +B remote signal to amp
18/19 (pink/blue) FR -/+ preamp
22/23 (red/green) FL -/+ preamp

Connector D (24P) (right next to A)
12/24 (red/lt blue) SUB +/- preamp
9/10 (pink/blue) Center -/+ preamp

Connector E(20P)
1/2 (brown/yellow) RS485 -/+ - communication to amp (likely remote settings)
11(grey) Shield for wires 1/2

Amplifier connectors:
Connector A: (24P) (mostly speaker outputs)
1 (black) Main ground
6/7 (blue/red) RR speaker -/+
8/9 (black/red) RR satellite speaker -/+
10/11 (blue/grey) RL satellite speaker +/-
12 (purple) Main +B power
13 (black) sub ground
14/15 (red/white) SUB -/+
16/17 (pink/black) Center -/+
18/19 (blue/red) FL speaker +/-
20/21 (red/brown) FR speaker +/-
22/23 (blue/red) RL speaker -/+
24 (purple) +B sub power

Connector B (28P)
1/15 (brown/yellow) RS485 -/+ communication
2 (yellow) Amp Remote +B
3/17 (blue/pink) Center +/- input
4/18 (red/lt blue) Sub +/- input
5/19 (green/red) FL +/- input
6/20 (blue/pink) FR +/- input
7/21 (lt blue/pink) RL +/- input
8/22 (brown/yellow) RR +/- input
10/23 (brown/yellow) Nav voice prompts -/+ input
11/25 (white/red) Front ANC -/+ input
12/26 (green/black) Rear ANC -/+ input
13/14 (brown/red) Right twitter -/+ output
27/28 (white/brown) Left twitter +/- output
 
Top