2012 EXL Stereo Build - Page 5 - Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums
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post #61 of 70 (permalink) Old 12-13-2013, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry to bring back an old post.
I had several PM's on how I changed the LCD display to accept the Kenwood double-din head unit. I could not figure out how to attach pictures to a PM.
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post #62 of 70 (permalink) Old 03-07-2014, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ToolmanJoe View Post
You will need a line level converter and cable to attach it to the amp. I used a Metra 80-Watt Adjustable Line Output Converter. You also need a cable to connect it to your amp. I used a Steren RCA Y-Adapter - 1 Male To 2 Male. I got both on Amazon for $17 shipped. I only used one channel of the level converter and then used the Y adapter to feed both channels of the amp. The reason I did it that way is because the level converter puts a load on the HU. I'm not sure what that load it but if you use both channels, the impedance will be 1/2 lower. So if the converter has a 4 ohm load, paralleling both channels will yield a 2 ohm load and that may be too much for the HU. Next, you need to figure out which cable on the back of the HU (LX, EX or EX-L without Navi or RES) or external amp (Navi, RES or Touring) goes to the subwoofer. I used crimp on taps to tap into the wires without having to cut anything. You can get those at Home Depot or Lowes. Last, you have to disable the ANC microphones. Someone said you can unplug a cable from the ANC unit but I believe in my model (EX-L non-Navi) that the ANC electronics are built into the HU so I had to disable the front and rear ANC mics. I posted on how to do that. As an FYI, the car is significantly louder when it goes into ECO mode without ANC. It depends on what speed and load is on the engine but it is noticeable. So you have to decide if that bothers you. You can do some testing by going into the diagnostic mode of the radio (Hold Preset buttons 1 & 6 while powering radio on). Then toggle ANC off using the Preset 1 button. You will have to toggle it on and off several times as the first few times you turn it off, you will hear a hum at varying levels. Once you have it off with no hum, drive around town and on the highway at different speeds to decide if the noise bothers you. If not, disconnect the ANC mics and you are ready to install the amp. If you don't disable the ANC, you will get a loud rumble through your sub.

As far as running the power cable, I posted some annotated pictures of that. I found that it is easiest to poke a hole in the firewall grommet from the inside, near the e-brake pedal. The outside is covered by the brake master cylinder so you can't get at it easily but will see the wire emerge into the engine compartment as you start feeding it. A little electrical lubricant on the wire makes it pull much easier without damaging the grommet and you can make a very small hole in the grommet that will seal tightly around your power cable that way without having to silicone it. If you are putting the amp under the driver's seat, you can probably get away with #6 or #8 wire. I went for the passenger seat so I ran #4. Then you just run speaker wire from the HU sub output to the level converter (which goes right next to the amp).

Good luck and if you have any other questions, drop me a line.

Joe
Hey Toolman,

So I've received much feedback and it's split 50/50 on how to do this, maybe you can help?

Trying to install aftermarket sub/amp in a 2013 EX-L. I want to disable the factory sub. If I am adding in a LOC and disabling the factory sub, do I want to tap into the subwoofer line coming FROM the factory sub amp (high level, where is it?), the rear speakers (then I can't control the sub through the head unit) or tap the sub line BEFORE the amp? I've been told the LOC (PAC LP72 with a gain) will convert the speaker level signal to a line level signal if I go in after the amp and then I will still retain control of the new amp and sub level from the HU, which I want to do. Thought, please? Thanks.
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post #63 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-04-2014, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Just a quick up-date on some of the improvements from this weekend.

I added a second JL Audio 13TW5 13"flat sub
Replaced the 5 channel JL Amp
Added a JL Audio HD 600/4 for the front & rear speakers
Added a JL Audio HD 1200/1 for the 2 subs
Added a Maestro RR steering wheel control. This not only makes it easy to up-grade the head-unit but it adds the Pilots read-outs on the head-unit.

I will add some more pictures (who knows they may even be clearer) and a review on the Maestro after I have had some more time with it. For now all I can say with the 2 amps you can hear the Pilot coming down the road
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post #64 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 12:23 PM
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I use a Kenwood Excelon kdc-x693 deck, what do you have your time alignment set up at? If you don't mind me asking.
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post #65 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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I use a Kenwood Excelon kdc-x693 deck, what do you have your time alignment set up at? If you don't mind me asking.
To be honest, I just finished the up-date yesterday and when I powered down the system I lost all of the settings (including time alignment, crossover points and EQ settings). I am still adjusting the the Matrix and amp gains, when this is done I will start on the time alignment and EQ settings. It's just like starting all over again.

I do remember I fudged the subs distance quite a bit to bring it more up front.


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post #66 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-03-2015, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Time for another up-date. The MDF sub box was replace today with a fiberglass box. With the fiberglass box the internal air space is large and comes closer to the mfg specs for the two subs. Another plus is the fiberglass box is about 20 to 30 pounds lighter than the MDF box.

I had a PM asking how to do a fiberglass box so here are some pictures.
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post #67 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-03-2015, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMG View Post
Time for another up-date. The MDF sub box was replace today with a fiberglass box. With the fiberglass box the internal air space is large and comes closer to the mfg specs for the two subs. Another plus is the fiberglass box is about 20 to 30 pounds lighter than the MDF box.

I had a PM asking how to do a fiberglass box so here are some pictures.

Nice update DMG! I know they are playing lower with more volume.

2012 Crystal Black Pearl LX
Pioneer Avic-5000NEX
JBL P660C Components
JL Audio SLASH - 360/2 Amp
Soundqubed Q1-750 mono block amp
Soundqubed Hds212-D2 12 inch sub
Custom enclosure 2.5 cubes ^3 tuned to 35 hz
Knuconceptz dual 0 Awg Amp Kit & 12 Awg wiring
Doors aren't even sound deadened yet but they sound great!
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post #68 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-04-2015, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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Nice update DMG! I know they are playing lower with more volume.
Thank you, yes the subs do play lower. To keep the system with a balanced sound the sub amp need to be turned down a bit.

I also finished sound deadening the rear doors, back cargo door and plastic trim pieces.

I think this system is about done..... except for adding a Hex Pro DSP and maybe a I-pad mini.
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Last edited by DMG; 04-05-2015 at 12:12 PM.
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post #69 of 70 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 10:26 AM
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Awesome build!! I'm actually hoping you can help me with something.. do you by chance have a wiring diagram for the stock amp? I have a '15 SE and I'm looking to by-pass the stock amp with an aftermarket amp. I'm going to run new wires from the amp to the speakers, but I am hoping you have the diagram that shows which wires going in to the amp are for which speakers.
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post #70 of 70 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Awesome build!! I'm actually hoping you can help me with something.. do you by chance have a wiring diagram for the stock amp? I have a '15 SE and I'm looking to by-pass the stock amp with an aftermarket amp. I'm going to run new wires from the amp to the speakers, but I am hoping you have the diagram that shows which wires going in to the amp are for which speakers.

Sorry I can't help you out, the Pilot has was totaled almost a year ago.


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