2012 EXL Stereo Build - Page 4 - Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums
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post #46 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-08-2013, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ToolmanJoe View Post
I'm curious... Why did you install the deck where the Navi screen is rather than where the factory deck is? Does the factory deck do anything now or is it a place filler? Anyway, the deck looks really nice. The navigation looks a lot like the Garmin interface.
That's my same question. I mean it looks nice, but having the factory deck just there with no use is kind of odd and a waste of space too, then having to get use to go directly to the touchscreen instead the more reachable factory deck.
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post #47 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-08-2013, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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That's my same question. I mean it looks nice, but having the factory deck just there with no use is kind of odd and a waste of space too, then having to get use to go directly to the touchscreen instead the more reachable factory deck.
There is two reasons for mounting the head-unit there:

1) There is not enough room were the factory radio is/was.
2) When I have time I will be installing a second screen were the factory radio is. The second screen will control the digital processor (to be added). Then I will have a choice on what screen the GPS and the front and rear cameras show up on.
3) All of the controls for: camera, Nav., CD, Radio, USB, Aha, Pandora, XFM are on the steering wheel, so I do not use any of the buttons on the head unit. About the only time I use the Kenwood 890 controls are when I am EQing/tuning the system.

This build is only about 1/2 done, more cool audio to come.


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Last edited by DMG; 04-28-2013 at 11:56 AM.
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post #48 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 10:04 AM
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Nice work there DMG...

Haven't been around in awhile...

My "install team" (LOL) tried to talk me into Morel. They sound nice (and cost $$) but I already had the JL Stuff from my wrecked Element - so I was 1/2-way there already. With the trade-in for my old JL Amps and subs from the Element - it was more cost-effective for me to put in the 900/5, make a sub box (2X TW-5's) and roll with the Factory Nav Head Unit (Alpine versus the cheezy Panasonic in the non-nav).

Rick

2016 Touring Blk/Blk (2WD) - Hitch Receiver - Tow Harness - Running Boards

Electronics
ECM: Blinder 905C-3 Front : Valentine 1

Lighting: Diode Dynamics 5K HID's (Low), 5K XML2 LED's (High/Fogs), 7443 XP80 LED's (Turns/Backup)

Sound: Factory NAV -> Mosconi 6to8 DSP -> Mosconi One 120.4 (X2 F/R/S) - Focal 650 KRX3 (front) + Focal 650 KRX2 (rear) + Focal KRX3 Mid Driver (sat)/ Mosconi One 240.2 (Sub) + Custom Cargo Sub Box w/JL 13TW5v2-4 : ANC Delete
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post #49 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you Rick,
When I started this mess I planned on using your build as my guide and use the stock Pana. head unit (oops, that's not a head unit but a plain old radio). The non-Nav. unit is so cheap I could not over come the noise (it sounded like a bowl of rice Krispies, snap, crack & pop). If my EX-L had the Nav. unit I would have kept that and the Audio Control interface, like yours.

That's when the build took the extreme right hand turn, installing the Kenwood. The Morel's do sound nice, if I did not have a good friend that "hooked me up" I might have looked at a cheaper alternative. I do like the JL Audio 900/5 HD nice power, very little noise and no high output alternator needed. I am still on the fence on adding a second sub, the amp can handle it but. I am just not sure if it would have that big of a return on the investment.

My big push now is to remove the stock radio, and add second screen in it's place.


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post #50 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 12:21 PM
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Thank you Rick,
When I started this mess I planned on using your build as my guide and use the stock Pana. head unit (oops, that's not a head unit but a plain old radio). The non-Nav. unit is so cheap I could not over come the noise (it sounded like a bowl of rice Krispies, snap, crack & pop). If my EX-L had the Nav. unit I would have kept that and the Audio Control interface, like yours.

That's when the build took the extreme right hand turn, installing the Kenwood. The Morel's do sound nice, if I did not have a good friend that "hooked me up" I might have looked at a cheaper alternative. I do like the JL Audio 900/5 HD nice power, very little noise and no high output alternator needed. I am still on the fence on adding a second sub, the amp can handle it but. I am just not sure if it would have that big of a return on the investment.

My big push now is to remove the stock radio, and add second screen in it's place.
The 900/5 runs my dual TW's just fine - so adding power is probably un-necessary. I really couldn't believe HOW BAD the Panasonic OEM unit SUCKED.

I would have bought an LX and did a ground-up install - but I wanted LEATHER. Ny the time I priced the leather and accessories I DID WANT - I was already above the EX-L price. And while I could have "lived without" the Power Lift Gate and Sunroof of the NAV trim (and I'm not saying I haven't grown to LOVE THEM, just that I could have lived without them and the PRICE) - I could NOT LIVE WITH THE CRAPPY PANASONIC HEAD UNIT.

As previously mentioned - the integration with the onboard systems at that trim level. Well - you were "damned if you do/damned if you don't". Since I could "afford" the $36K sticker and upgrades to the car - I rolled that way.

OTOH - I'm the guy that had a $7K Stereo in an ELEMENT - so what do I know ANYWAY...

Rick

2016 Touring Blk/Blk (2WD) - Hitch Receiver - Tow Harness - Running Boards

Electronics
ECM: Blinder 905C-3 Front : Valentine 1

Lighting: Diode Dynamics 5K HID's (Low), 5K XML2 LED's (High/Fogs), 7443 XP80 LED's (Turns/Backup)

Sound: Factory NAV -> Mosconi 6to8 DSP -> Mosconi One 120.4 (X2 F/R/S) - Focal 650 KRX3 (front) + Focal 650 KRX2 (rear) + Focal KRX3 Mid Driver (sat)/ Mosconi One 240.2 (Sub) + Custom Cargo Sub Box w/JL 13TW5v2-4 : ANC Delete
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post #51 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-27-2013, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Just a quick up-date. I had some time this last week to work on the dash.

Removed the old crappy Panasonic radio, only to find out the the temperature display is attached to the radio by a ribbon cable. So I had to disassemble the radio and play with the front circuit board so I could get rid of the extra knobs and still have the heater display still work.

Made a carbon fiber cover-up were the old radio was and matched the lower heater control knobs with carbon fiber.


Next big project is to mount either a tablet or a DSP display in the center carbon fiber panel. This will be more of a challenge that I first thought, since most of the stock radio is still behind the center panel. I am trying to avoid a surface mount display.
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post #52 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-27-2013, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by DMG View Post
Just a quick up-date. I had some time this last week to work on the dash.

Removed the old crappy Panasonic radio, only to find out the the temperature display is attached to the radio by a ribbon cable. So I had to disassemble the radio and play with the front circuit board so I could get rid of the extra knobs and still have the heater display still work.

Made a carbon fiber cover-up were the old radio was and matched the lower heater control knobs with carbon fiber.


Next big project is to mount either a tablet or a DSP display in the center carbon fiber panel. This will be more of a challenge that I first thought, since most of the stock radio is still behind the center panel. I am trying to avoid a surface mount display.
I bet the iPad Mini would fit in there! Keep us posted on your build. It looks great!!
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post #53 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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I bet the iPad Mini would fit in there! Keep us posted on your build. It looks great!!
Thank you 13Pilot.

I was thinking the same thing on the "Mini", I just need to do some research on what apps would be best for my use.


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post #54 of 70 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 02:53 PM
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2013 with Nav upgrade

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Originally Posted by rsconsulting View Post
Nice work there DMG...

Haven't been around in awhile...

My "install team" (LOL) tried to talk me into Morel. They sound nice (and cost $$) but I already had the JL Stuff from my wrecked Element - so I was 1/2-way there already. With the trade-in for my old JL Amps and subs from the Element - it was more cost-effective for me to put in the 900/5, make a sub box (2X TW-5's) and roll with the Factory Nav Head Unit (Alpine versus the cheezy Panasonic in the non-nav).

Rick
Sounds similar to what I want to do, but will probably have a shop do most of the work. I just want to make sure I understand what will work and what won't. I have the 'premium' system with nav, 10 speakers, 650 watts, etc. Not impressed. It does have a separate sub control in the head unit. I assume that means there is a pre-amp out sub signal that I could use and retain the sub control in the head unit. The shop I talked to where the guy seemed to know a lot about how the Pilot was set up said no, I would just have to branch off one of the rear speakers and lose that functionality. Anybody know why that would be?
Thanks!
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post #55 of 70 (permalink) Old 11-23-2013, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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Sounds similar to what I want to do, but will probably have a shop do most of the work. I just want to make sure I understand what will work and what won't. I have the 'premium' system with nav, 10 speakers, 650 watts, etc. Not impressed. It does have a separate sub control in the head unit. I assume that means there is a pre-amp out sub signal that I could use and retain the sub control in the head unit. The shop I talked to where the guy seemed to know a lot about how the Pilot was set up said no, I would just have to branch off one of the rear speakers and lose that functionality. Anybody know why that would be?
Thanks!
Do you have a written quote from the shop? If you do that will list the parts they will be using, post the quote and lets go over it.

I will try to break this down and try and make it simple using the factory radio/head unit.

You will need a processor to take your speaker wires and convert them to use with a amp (Audio Control, Bit 10, Clear-Sweep, MS-8). In most cases you use one pair of speaker wires (front or rear not the sub wires) to "feed" the signal to the processor. The processor then sends the signal to your amp/amps and the the amps send the signal to the speakers.

With that said there are some amps that can take your speaker wires as the signal in-put and then send the amped signal to your speakers. You can also use a simple line-driver to convert speaker wires to a RCA's.

A couple of things to remember: you will have to disconnect your ANC, make sure your head-unit is the Alpine and not the cheap Panasonic that my EX-L had, make sure you have a clear understanding with your installer on what is and is not included with the install (get it in writing). You also may want to add something about there will be no turn on/off "pop" and no floor noise or static when the install is completed, get this in WRITING...... just in case.

If you still have questions let me know.


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post #56 of 70 (permalink) Old 11-29-2013, 09:01 PM
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DMG, hows that thin JL sub working out? I'm thinking of getting one installed in my Pilot but no shop around has one to hear. People say it's good but never heard one myself.
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post #57 of 70 (permalink) Old 11-29-2013, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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DMG, hows that thin JL sub working out? I'm thinking of getting one installed in my Pilot but no shop around has one to hear. People say it's good but never heard one myself.
I like it and would recommend it.

It is not an SPL sub like the W7, but it is very accurate tight sounding sub. I just got a good deal on a new amp so when I have some free time I will be adding a second one to the system.


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post #58 of 70 (permalink) Old 11-30-2013, 03:59 PM
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I like it and would recommend it.

It is not an SPL sub like the W7, but it is very accurate tight sounding sub. I just got a good deal on a new amp so when I have some free time I will be adding a second one to the system.

HHmmmm. I've been so curious about that sub. I've been to many shops and not one has it on display, they just tell me it sounds good and nothing else.

A new amp? I would of thought that 900/5 would of done it right. You adding more subs?
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post #59 of 70 (permalink) Old 11-30-2013, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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HHmmmm. I've been so curious about that sub. I've been to many shops and not one has it on display, they just tell me it sounds good and nothing else.

A new amp? I would of thought that 900/5 would of done it right. You adding more subs?
It surprises shops in So Cal do not have the JL sub on the shelf or on a demo wall! When I lived there it was the leader in car audio.

The 900/5HD is a very nice amp, but I am adding another JL Audio TW5 to the system. I did a quick test and I think driving 2 of the TW5 is asking a little to much of the amp.

Plus I just got a "new in the box" JL HD1200/1 for $550.00 and I just have to use it. I can always turn the gain and other controls down if it is to much bass (this is an SQ system).


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post #60 of 70 (permalink) Old 11-30-2013, 05:30 PM
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It surprises shops in So Cal do not have the JL sub on the shelf or on a demo wall! When I lived there it was the leader in car audio.

The 900/5HD is a very nice amp, but I am adding another JL Audio TW5 to the system. I did a quick test and I think driving 2 of the TW5 is asking a little to much of the amp.

Plus I just got a "new in the box" JL HD1200/1 for $550.00 and I just have to use it. I can always turn the gain and other controls down if it is to much bass (this is an SQ system).

There used to be some good audio shops around but they have closed down over the years. Now the shops around are not that great. Hell, I could do better installs than some around here.

The JL 1200/1 is the one I'm looking for my truck. I'm thinking of adding 3 8w7's to my Tundra. That is a pretty sick deal you got for the 1200/1. Any more out there for that price ?
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