2012 EXL Stereo Build - Page 3 - Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums
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post #31 of 70 (permalink) Old 12-09-2012, 07:59 PM
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Cargo cover 2012 Pilot

My cargo cover wouldn't clear my sub and I didn't like the space between the seatback and the cover. What was Honda thinking with a 2" gap at the front of the cargo cover that you can see in???

At any rate, I cut 2 square holes in my rear pillars, which allowed me to move my cargo cover forward and up a few inches. This eliminated the gap and allowed the cover to clear my sub. The cargo cover is a crappy design in my opinion. The one in my 2004 was much better. The one in my wife's CR-V is also much better.

Joe

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I thought I would up-date my post with some pictures during the install. I also have re-do the cargo cover hiding the amp and sub.
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Last edited by ToolmanJoe; 12-16-2012 at 05:50 PM. Reason: Added photos of cargo cover closed.
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post #32 of 70 (permalink) Old 12-09-2012, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Joe,
That cargo cover is a very light weight "honey-cone" that would rattle when the sub would hit hard. I tried velcro to hold it in place but it still ratted, so I made a new one out of MDF and rounded the outside edges & recessed were the metal grill mounts to it and no more rattles.

Were are your pictures.... I want to see yours
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post #33 of 70 (permalink) Old 12-09-2012, 09:53 PM
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Mine looks stock other than the sub box in the back but I'll take some pictures this week. I thought you meant the pull over window shade cargo cover. You did a nice job!
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post #34 of 70 (permalink) Old 12-09-2012, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ToolmanJoe View Post
Mine looks stock other than the sub box in the back but I'll take some pictures this week. I thought you meant the pull over window shade cargo cover. You did a nice job!
Cool I look forward to seeing your pictures, I like to see what others have done.

The main reason for re-doing the hatch-cargo cover; is the rattles and when I cut the hole for the sub instead of being round it came out like an oval.
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post #35 of 70 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 11:17 AM
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I see. You used the time tested method of measure once, cut twice! ;-)

My project involves installing my ham radio gear as well so I am not done yet but I'll post what I have so far. Pulling wires in this vehicle is a pain because I get nervous every time I see an SRS imprint on a body panel. I think I caused myself a lot more grief just trying to avoid those. I installed a motorized antenna mount to fold the antenna down when I pull into a parking garage using a switch on the inside so I had to find a way to route those wires from the roof rack into the vehicle and then up to the front. How did you route the power cable to the amp? Did you run it down the driver's side under the door thresholds?

Joe

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Cool I look forward to seeing your pictures, I like to see what others have done.

The main reason for re-doing the hatch-cargo cover; is the rattles and when I cut the hole for the sub instead of being round it came out like an oval.
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post #36 of 70 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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The power wires are run down the passenger side and the speaker wires are down the drivers side.

I just wish I had a better camera during the install! A cell phone is a phone - sometimes but it's never a camera.
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post #37 of 70 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 02:44 PM
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Install photos

Here are some pics. Unfortunately, I didn't take pics of where the main amp is installed or the wiring to it. I installed a power block under the driver's seat. I have #4 from the battery through 100A breaker. Enters through existing grommet in firewall then runs down front pillar and driver's side threshold to power block under seat. I have the #4 going in and it has 4x #6 out. One goes to main amp, one to sub amp, one to Ham radio and I have a spare for future gadgetry. Sub speaker wire out of stock HU through center console to level converter and to sub amp. Stock sub left connected in case I need to remove sub box for Home Depot runs.

Joe
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post #38 of 70 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like a good clean install and I do like having a knob to control the sub. How did you mount the Ham antenna? Did you have to drill any holes in the roof?
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post #39 of 70 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 12:16 PM
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No holes. I removed the end cap from the left roof rail and slid the heads of 2 ¼-20 carriage bolts into the rail channel so the threaded end was sticking out of the center of the rail. Then I bolted a bracket that I modified to the inside of the rail using the carriage bolts and ¼" nuts, washers and lock washers. I used all stainless hardware. I had to cut the plastic molding that is by the liftgate hinge to pass the cables through then I ran the cables in through the slot where the power arm for the power liftgate comes out. I bought a spare plastic molding for when the day comes that I sell the vehicle. By then, it may not be available anymore and that will allow me to put it back the way it was when I remove the cables. See photo.

I'm still waiting for a connector to mount the antenna to the bracket. Once that arrives (maybe today?) I'll mount the antenna and take a video of the motorized mount. It's pretty cool.
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Last edited by ToolmanJoe; 12-11-2012 at 12:22 PM.
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post #40 of 70 (permalink) Old 12-19-2012, 10:35 AM
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i just realized that since i have a 11 lx, my a/c display is up top where the radio display is, so placing a double din up there is out of the question, might just have to invest in a Rosen unit instead.

2011 Honda Pilot EX-L
2011 BMW 328i
2005 Jeep Liberty Limited
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post #41 of 70 (permalink) Old 01-01-2013, 02:45 AM
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Toolman....Can you explain this alittle more in detail.....you said " I ran the power cable from the battery, tapped into the existing subwoofer output of the stock HU and added a 500W amp and 12" subwoofer using a level converter." I believe this is exactly what I need to do in order to add my Rockford Punch 400 and sub. At this time I want to keep the OEM unit and all the OEM speakers connected. How would I go up installing the amp to the OEM system? Do I need additional equipment?
Great Thread, pictures and information.
Thank You

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Last edited by Armystrong; 01-01-2013 at 02:51 AM.
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post #42 of 70 (permalink) Old 01-01-2013, 12:52 PM
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You will need a line level converter and cable to attach it to the amp. I used a Metra 80-Watt Adjustable Line Output Converter. You also need a cable to connect it to your amp. I used a Steren RCA Y-Adapter - 1 Male To 2 Male. I got both on Amazon for $17 shipped. I only used one channel of the level converter and then used the Y adapter to feed both channels of the amp. The reason I did it that way is because the level converter puts a load on the HU. I'm not sure what that load it but if you use both channels, the impedance will be 1/2 lower. So if the converter has a 4 ohm load, paralleling both channels will yield a 2 ohm load and that may be too much for the HU. Next, you need to figure out which cable on the back of the HU (LX, EX or EX-L without Navi or RES) or external amp (Navi, RES or Touring) goes to the subwoofer. I used crimp on taps to tap into the wires without having to cut anything. You can get those at Home Depot or Lowes. Last, you have to disable the ANC microphones. Someone said you can unplug a cable from the ANC unit but I believe in my model (EX-L non-Navi) that the ANC electronics are built into the HU so I had to disable the front and rear ANC mics. I posted on how to do that. As an FYI, the car is significantly louder when it goes into ECO mode without ANC. It depends on what speed and load is on the engine but it is noticeable. So you have to decide if that bothers you. You can do some testing by going into the diagnostic mode of the radio (Hold Preset buttons 1 & 6 while powering radio on). Then toggle ANC off using the Preset 1 button. You will have to toggle it on and off several times as the first few times you turn it off, you will hear a hum at varying levels. Once you have it off with no hum, drive around town and on the highway at different speeds to decide if the noise bothers you. If not, disconnect the ANC mics and you are ready to install the amp. If you don't disable the ANC, you will get a loud rumble through your sub.

As far as running the power cable, I posted some annotated pictures of that. I found that it is easiest to poke a hole in the firewall grommet from the inside, near the e-brake pedal. The outside is covered by the brake master cylinder so you can't get at it easily but will see the wire emerge into the engine compartment as you start feeding it. A little electrical lubricant on the wire makes it pull much easier without damaging the grommet and you can make a very small hole in the grommet that will seal tightly around your power cable that way without having to silicone it. If you are putting the amp under the driver's seat, you can probably get away with #6 or #8 wire. I went for the passenger seat so I ran #4. Then you just run speaker wire from the HU sub output to the level converter (which goes right next to the amp).

Good luck and if you have any other questions, drop me a line.

Joe

Quote:
Toolman....Can you explain this alittle more in detail.....you said " I ran the power cable from the battery, tapped into the existing subwoofer output of the stock HU and added a 500W amp and 12" subwoofer using a level converter." I believe this is exactly what I need to do in order to add my Rockford Punch 400 and sub. At this time I want to keep the OEM unit and all the OEM speakers connected. How would I go up installing the amp to the OEM system? Do I need additional equipment?
Great Thread, pictures and information.
Thank You
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post #43 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-07-2013, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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I thought I would up-date this post. When I started this build I was using the Kenwood 990, after using it for some time the unit would just freeze-up. Then I would have to turn the car off and the unit would come back to life.

So this week I up-graded to the new Kenwood 890, what a pleasant difference. Everything works smoother and faster, the Aha, Pandora SMS all work as they should from my Samsung Note II.

Here are some new pictures of the new 890.
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post #44 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-08-2013, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
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I thought I would up-date this post. When I started this build I was using the Kenwood 990, after using it for some time the unit would just freeze-up. Then I would have to turn the car off and the unit would come back to life.

So this week I up-graded to the new Kenwood 890, what a pleasant difference. Everything works smoother and faster, the Aha, Pandora SMS all work as they should from my Samsung Note II.

Here are some new pictures of the new 890.
Nice, but my question is, are the factory radio buttons working with the new HU? It will be very annoying having all those buttons just seating there with no use.
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post #45 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-08-2013, 04:28 PM
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I'm curious... Why did you install the deck where the Navi screen is rather than where the factory deck is? Does the factory deck do anything now or is it a place filler? Anyway, the deck looks really nice. The navigation looks a lot like the Garmin interface.
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