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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Louisville
Posts: 6
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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2007 Pilot with Nav
Factory sub is blown, rattling all the time, I can't take it anymore. Need some help before ordering a sub. Say I get the new sub/amp how does that connect to the OEM radio? Will it sound good or do I need to add something else for the sound to be balanced properly? I've searched the forum for 2 hours and I can't find the answer here anywhere. Hopefully someone can help me. Thanks |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 49
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Hi this subject has been covered in a lot of posts I will link some to you.
Another sub in stock location thread Start of a System ( with Pics ) In my opinion replacing the factory sub means removing a lot of panels & matching up a new sub & properly sealing it in. A new sub will require an amp to power it. If you want to keep your factory stereo you can get something like this: http://www.woofersetc.com/p-7352-sgn...converter.aspx That will allow you to keep your factory stereo intact and add an amplifier to power the new sub. Last edited by THE215; 02-11-2011 at 01:19 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Louisville
Posts: 6
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Thanks
I am not worried about removing the panels and getting the old sub out and the new one in. There are step by step instructions for that on this site. Whet I was worried about is hooking up the new amp/sub to the factory radio. That product link you posted seems to allow that. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Louisville
Posts: 6
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I have found a lot of Line Out Converters. Most of them $30 or under.
What is the difference between a cheap LOC and say the JL Cleensweep or the RF 3sixty? Keep in mind I am just hooking an amp/sub up to factory HU. Thanks |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Sometimes you get what you pay for. Just depends on how important the sound is to you!!!
__________________
Blackhole sound dampening throughout polkaudio Mobile Monitor components up front & MoMo coaxials in the rear CDT Up-219 Upstage System Xstatic Car Audio Battery Stinger Dual Amp Wiring Kit & class 3 interconnects Kenwood Excelon DDX 896 AudioControl DDC & DQS Kicker SX 700.4 & SX 600.2 Xetronic 6000k HID xenon system WeatherTech digital floorLiner Eclipse Retractable SunShade Yokahama Geolander HTS & of course.....more to come Thank you very much Jeffrey Wilson |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 49
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Or you can go for an amp with speaker level inputs. That way you could possibly get an amp with at least 4 channels & tap into your existing speaker wire. Amp your front speakers and bridge the last 2 channels for a sub. But if you're gonna amp your front speakers it wouldn't be a good idea to leave the front speakers stock.
http://http://www.crutchfield.com/S-.../oem_amps.html Last edited by THE215; 02-17-2011 at 01:49 PM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Got a question where you guys install the Line Out Converters? I know usually crimpt to the back of the stock HU. but I was thinking if it's possible to use the stock sub's output wire in the back and install my Line Out Converters from that source maybe it will give a better clean filtered bass output? anyone has try that route?
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08 Honda Pilot SE Black/RES: Dynamat, Alpine MRV-T420, Polk db1040, Broadway Mirror, Putco SMD Interior LED, LED License Plate, Putco Yellow Fog, Hella Gen 3 Ballast + 6000k Xentec Bulb, Class 3 Curl hitch. 99 Civic DX Seden (Commute) 196k 07 Scion tC (Trade-in) - 90 Civic EF (Trade for 99 Civic) - 94 Civic Del Sol (GSR Turbo, Sold) - 92 Integra LS (Sold)
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