Another sub in stock location thread

[Jacob99]

So I ended up finding the MTX 4510 on a website so I ordered it. I also bought a 300W Pioneer amp. It's nothing fancy but I got a good deal on it. I went to a local audio shop and by mere coincidence, one of my buddy's works there, and he sold me the Pioneer amp they had up on the wall (listed at $249) for $100.

So, my only question is, I seen that PTO recommends that the amp be wired for 4 ohm, but my buddy said that this particular amp (mono) can be wired at either 2 ohm or 8 ohm, and he's going to wire it for 2 ohm. Will that be a problem for any reason?

I made an appointment for next Friday to have it all installed. In the meantime, I'm getting ready to purchase the Infinity Reference 6022si's for all 4 doors....

Hope it all sounds good....

[jcantanixon]

To answer your question, no, you won't have a problem with the setup as you describe it.

FYI - Ohms measure resistance. There really isn't any such thing as "wiring" an amp to either 2 ohm or 8 ohm. If you have a multi-channel amp, you can bridge channels to make the amp output more power and be capable of being stable at a lower resistance. However, since you have a mono amplifier, it's probably rated to handle down to 2 ohms, so it's going to be fine at anything 2 or above. The MTX 4510 comes in either single 4 ohm or dual 4 ohm voice coils. If you purchased the dual voice coil sub, the two voice coils can be wired in series for a total of 8 ohms, or in parallel for a total of 2 ohms. This is probably what your installer was talking about. He's going to wire your sub to run at 2 ohms, which will maximize the power output of you amplifier.

Hope that makes sense.

[Jacob99]

I've got a small problem....I ordered the MTX T4510-44, but onlinecarstereo.com sent me the MTX TR4510-44 which is a better speaker, and I guess I got a great deal on it. Problem is that this one is not rated for free air usage. The mounting depth is about the same, but will I be able to use this thing? My install is tomorrow morning, and I don't want to go through with the install if it's not going to sound good.

WTF....?! Always something.....

[jcantanixon]

The TR is just the newer model. They have around the same features and specs. I'm not sure where you got the idea that the one is rated for free air and the other isn't. I couldn't verify that on the MTX site. They recommend using a sealed enclosure with both.

[Jacob99]

So, I got the sub and amp installed in the stock location. Came out perfect! The guy that did the installation actually sort of created a sealed enclusure in the stock sub cavity. He used a 1/2" piece of MDF, stuffed everything with dynamat, and used some type of expanding foam to seal off the area around the sub. Sounds really good! I'm very surprised with the range of this sub. I'm getting nice punchy bass and also some really low bass (which I didn't think would sound good in a non ported box).

Only problem I have now is that I don't like the stock mids and highs now. I just ordered the Infinity Reference 6022 si's. Car audio is addictive!

[davebutch]

I'm thinking of adding a sub, also. Just so I understand, you installed the sub in the original location, but where did you end up installing the amp? BTW, I already installed four Infinity's in the doors, and they helped a ton.

By the way, thanks to everyone for reposting the instructions for getting to the right rear panel. A lot of that info used to be posted on here but seems to have gotten washed away.

[Jacob99]

Originally Posted by davebutch

I'm thinking of adding a sub, also. Just so I understand, you installed the sub in the original location, but where did you end up installing the amp? BTW, I already installed four Infinity's in the doors, and they helped a ton.

Yes, the sub was installed in the original (stock) location, the amp was installed underneath my driver's seat, so I retained my headrest storage.

[ref_hekler]

Originally Posted by Jacob99

Yes, the sub was installed in the original (stock) location, the amp was installed underneath my driver's seat, so I retained my headrest storage.

Thanks for reposting all of this good info. I too had lost it.

Now JCANTANIXON made a post ", there are a few options from ED. Staying on the less expensive end, the SQ10 is super shallow like the Pioneer you linked to, but it's a 10 inch vs 8 inch, uses a traditional spider structure instead of a gimmicky air spring, handles more power, and has a higher ouput (more sensitivity). Also, it's cheaper and has a 5 year warranty. It's going to sound a whole lot better than that Pioneer, trust me "

Do they make any other 10" subs that will work in the shallow enclosure?? Thanks again....

[jcantanixon]

Originally Posted by ref_hekler

Thanks for reposting all of this good info. I too had lost it.

Now JCANTANIXON made a post ", there are a few options from ED. Staying on the less expensive end, the SQ10 is super shallow like the Pioneer you linked to, but it's a 10 inch vs 8 inch, uses a traditional spider structure instead of a gimmicky air spring, handles more power, and has a higher ouput (more sensitivity). Also, it's cheaper and has a 5 year warranty. It's going to sound a whole lot better than that Pioneer, trust me "

Do they make any other 10" subs that will work in the shallow enclosure?? Thanks again....

Actually, I would like to retract my previous recommendation for ED. While I've never had a bad experience from them, a buddy of mine had a woofer die on him under warranty. He sent it back and they tried to say it was overpowered and abused and didn't want to warranty it. It was being fed way less than the rated RMS and the gain wasn't all the way up. Seemed to be a clear case of defect. They eventually warrantied it, but I did some looking around the car audio forums and it seems like they do that sort of thing to everyone.

My new recommendation for budget shallow subwoofer is the Tand Band 10" Neo. Available from Parts Express

Or if you wanted to step up to something more powerful(and more expensive), RE Audio makes a shallow sub that's dual voice coil and can handle 350W RMS. RE Audio SL10D4

[Jacob99]

Hey, I'm pretty damn happy with my budget $55 MTX subwoofer if that helps with your decision at all....

[nsaspook]

Originally Posted by Jacob99

Hey, I'm pretty damn happy with my budget $55 MTX subwoofer if that helps with your decision at all....

Now that the original MTX subs have been discontinued, what other current subs have been used in the stock location for 2008 and earlier Pilots? The TR4510-x4 seems close to the original from the specs and power handling.



You used the TR4510-44 dual voice coil (wired for 2 or 8 ohms?) Mounting Depth: 4.85"
MTX Car Audio - Thunder Round 45 | MTX Audio

I used the T4510-04 single coil (4 ohms) Mounting Depth: 4.625"
Original MTX sub
MTX Car Audio - Thunder4500 High-Performance subwoofer | MTX Audio

[Jacob99]

Well I actually ordered the T4510 (discontinued) from onlinecarstereo.com, but they sent me the TR4510-44 which is a newer model and more powerful. At first I was pissed because the newer one isn't rated for free air application, but it sounds amazing.

Don't get it twisted now, you're not going to enter any bass competitions and it's not going to sound like 2 12's in a ported box, but it does sound really nice. I have a decent air for audio/music seeing that I'm a musician, and the sound quality is really good. Good punch and also good low frequency bass. The installer also has a lot to do with it. The guy that did mine basically customized a sealed enclosure using a 1/2" piece of MDF, dynamat, and some expanding foam to fill the small gaps.....

[MDIADDEZ]

Could use a little help with this thread...I recently upgraded my system with 5 channel amp and the MTX TR4510-04 (had upgraded the doors to Polks awhile back). In the process of installing this I saw now way a single 3/4" MDF spacer would do the trick?

My install has been done for a week and based on my fit I used 3 x 3/4" MDF spacers (could have sworn I read someone had even used a 3" spacer!). Needless to say I got a RUDE awakening when trying to put my right panel back (with trim ring removed). My MTX sticks out at least a 1/2" too far and blocks the panel from mounting?

Q: Can you confirm what you removed from the stock sub location to install the MTX TR4510-04 with a single 3/4" spacer?

Many thanks...Matt

[nsaspook]

Originally Posted by MDIADDEZ

Could use a little help with this thread...I recently upgraded my system with 5 channel amp and the MTX TR4510-04 (had upgraded the doors to Polks awhile back). In the process of installing this I saw now way a single 3/4" MDF spacer would do the trick?

My install has been done for a week and based on my fit I used 3 x 3/4" MDF spacers (could have sworn I read someone had even used a 3" spacer!). Needless to say I got a RUDE awakening when trying to put my right panel back (with trim ring removed). My MTX sticks out at least a 1/2" too far and blocks the panel from mounting?

Q: Can you confirm what you removed from the stock sub location to install the MTX TR4510-04 with a single 3/4" spacer?

Many thanks...Matt

My ring was recessed for a better fit in the stock mounting place.

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[MDIADDEZ]

Thanks for the response nsaspook.

My ring is recessed as well to fit cleanly in the stock sub location. Not sure what magic was used to make the MTS T4510-04 fit but in my 2008 Pilot a 3/4" spacer will not provide the required mounting depth (~3.9" + 3/4" does not provide for the 4 7/8" depth required for this sub).

I tore my install out and made a new 3/4" spacer and installed a Kenwood KFC-XW1000F shallow mount sub (3 3/8" depth). Sounds solid...

Notice to all late model Pilot owners. Be advised that your aftermarket sub install can NOT extend more than ~1.5" from the stock sub location otherwise the right interior panel will not mount and/or it will place the sub in contact with the right interior panel (yes...this all assumes you do remove the trim ring from the inside of the panel).

Thanks all for your posts. Matt