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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 44
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I've seen these advertised, but don't know if they work at all on Hondas/Acuras, but I've seen good reviews for other manufacturers. I'm looking for one that is a manual pump instead of one that uses an air compressor.
Anyone have any luck with these? Will they work on the Pilot? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Super Senior Member
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Location: Maryland
Posts: 602
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The Pilot is so easy to crawl under, so why would you need an extractor?
__________________
2003 Nighthawk Black Pearl EXL Built on June 9, 2003 Delivered on June 24, 2003 OEM cargo tray and all weather mats |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Super Duper Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Edmonton, AB., Canada, eh!!
Posts: 2,388
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Chicago, NW Burbs
Posts: 13,550
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Quote:
It does not sound logical.
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However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results. Sir Winston Churchill |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 184
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Save your money, how do you know that you have all the old oil sucked out if you use the vacuum method?
Spend the $25 on a fumoto drain valve, that makes changing your oil a snap. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 25
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The oil extractors are very popular on some of the other auto boards that I frequent. Popular choices are MityVac and Pele. MityVac is a manual pump modelavailable at the www.thetoolwarehouse.net.
Some users have reported more oil returned than with gravity drain. I think it depends on the baffling in the oil pan or drain outlet location in regard to the pan or even the tilt of the pan when on a jack or stands. The advantages are they are quick, easy, and clean, and no chance of stripping a drain plug. Also, no risk from getting under a vehicle if you have a filter accessible from above or the front. The downside is that some worry that they are not getting all the residual oil or any solids from the bottom. Some alternate with a gravity drain every 2nd or 3rd change. I have never used one, but those that have seem very happy with them. Personal preference I think. Your mileage may vary. At least the oil is getting changed. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 44
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Thanks for the input, I'm sure it is just personal preference. I have several cars that are a pain to jack up and put on stands in my tight garage. I think that this will be a quick easy way to change the oil in them. Folks on other boards have had good success with it so I'll give it a shot.
I'll give it a review on this board after I do my 3500mile oil change on the Pilot as soon as I get it. |
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#9 (permalink) | ||
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Member
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Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 58
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Quote:
Quote:
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04 Nighthawk Black Pilot EX "minivan" 04 Alpine White M3 "track car" |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Location: Vista, CA
Posts: 116
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I'm late to this thread but I have some answers. We have setup many stationary engines and most are drained normally, but some had pumps because of installation restrictions. With oil samples before and after, there is always more crud left behind with the pump, always.
So if you really don't care one way of the other and it's a too much trouble to do it the right way, pumping is better than skipping the oil change. And this is especially true if you are only keeping your Pilot for three year or less. But in the end, if it's too much truble, take it to a quick lube or the dealer and let them change the oil. For those that care, it's ramps and a drain pan, maybe some synthetic oil, too. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 58
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Quote:
Based on volume collected, the pumps do a very good job. If the concern is the dirt will settle at the bottom of the pan, just run the engine so the dirt is in suspension. You're supposed to run the engine first anyway--oil flows much better warm than cold.
__________________
04 Nighthawk Black Pilot EX "minivan" 04 Alpine White M3 "track car" |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Super Senior Member
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Location: Minneapolis Suburbs
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I talked to the reps at Mityvac and they told me that it is NOT possible to get all the oil out using this product via the dipstick...
__________________
'03 Starlight Silver EX-L...Rear Splash Guards, Cargo Tray, All-Season Mats (Husky Liners In Front), Trailer Hitch, 3M Clear Nose Mask, K&N Performance Air and Oil Filters, Mobil1 5W-20 Oil, Sylvania Silver Star Bulbs, FS Spare, Michelin X Terrains, Bosch Micro Edge Excel Wiper Blades, Amsoil ATF, Bosch Premium Oil Filters, Purolator PureONE Oil Filters, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Akebono Ceramic Pads, Brembo Rotors- |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Vista, CA
Posts: 116
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elbert, sorry about the delay. How did we know. When we pulled the engines down for major service (overhaul) the pan always had swril patterns of gunk (techincal term for crud). These engines were worked hard in difficult weather but on engines that were drained from a plug, there was very little gunk, if any at all.
Now on engines that have to be pumped we now build a little x-tra sump on the bottom and pump from there, including flushing at the end of the cycle. We put a hard line into the sump that goes up to some place on the top of the engine. The sump is avery deep little pocket and after the flush we dump in a bit of oil and pull it out, just to be sure we get everything. After having to do all this I think that pumping an automotive engine is not very useful. If you haven't fallen asleep reading this, I hope this answered your question. I know that 'gunk' does not show up on a UOA but it sure gets on your hands. |
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