Changing passenger side mirror glass

[labow]

Someone hit my mirror in a parking lot a couple of weeks ago and cracked the glass. I purchaced a replacement mirror from Majestic Honda and put it on over the weekend.

Overall, I would rate this change as a 4, anyone can do it. The hardest part was removing the glass and putting it back on. To remove the glass I had to push in the mirror at the left side and pull on the right side until it popped. It required quite a bit of pressure and I was glad I was removing a broken mirror! Here are some pics of the install.

BTW.. My wife called me an "extreeme geek" for taking these pics and posting them. Well if thats what I have to endure to possibly help out a fellow member, then so be it!!

[labow]

Here is a pic of the mirror before removal. This sucker was hit hard!

[labow]

Glass removed. You can now see the acutator and the connectors for the heated mirror. Im glad there was no damage to any thing other than the glass!

[labow]

This is the back of the glass with the black thing (bracket) that attaches the glass to the acutator. The bracked has to be removed from the glass. This was easy, it just slid off with a little pressure.

[labow]

Here are the pieces seperated. Notice the heater connectors on the right side of the glass.

[labow]

New on left, old on right!

[labow]

Bracket attached to new mirror. I placed a clean terry towel underneath to prevent scratching the new mirror. I also used surgical gloves to try and avoid fingerprints.

[labow]

A closeup of the heater wires. They are both black so I looped one of them just to make sure I re-attached them correctly. Not sure if it really made a difference.

[labow]

Heater wires attached.

[labow]

All done!! To put it back on I had to line up the nubs on the acutator withthe holes on the bracket. You have to apply quite a bit of pressure to the center of the mirror until it snaps into place. This was scary and required quite a bit of pushing and grunting and cursing! I kept thinking I was going to break the new glass.

Even though I used the gloves, it still needed to be cleaned, but so did the entire Pilot!!

If this ever happens to you, fix it yourself and save the money, the mirror was only $14 (I think). The dealer wanted well over $100 to fix it and it was only about 30min of labor.

[RipRocK]

labow, really appreciate these pics! Sure will come in handy for someone like me if I ever need to change a sideview mirror. Thanks!

[GoAvs]

labow -

Great pics! Thanks for posting and tell your wife we appreciate it. Makes me thing about getting those signal mirrors I've seen again . . .

[labow]

GoAvs, while doing this I was thinking about the signal mirrors.

Putting the mirrors on is the east part, the rest of that install involves removing door panels, running wires, and other things my fat fingers would probably mangle!

While the signal mirrors are cool, I prefer the ones that are actually underneath the housing of the mirror assembly (ala Envoy). I think this is actually more usefull as it allows drivers not only behind and beside you, but in front of you know which way your going. A complete OEM housing replacement would be easy to install but probably $$$!!

[GoAvs]

labow -

I couldn't agree more about the "wrap around" mirror signals. I have seen a couple after market stick on ones but you have to drill a hole in your mirror housing, etc. Hot too excited about that if they should fail or fall off.

[Pilotster]

Someone smacked my drivers side mirror and the mirror holder bracket came off with the plastic actuator ball joint pin. The mirror and holder bracket remained intact however the actuator assm. nub broke off. This plastic ball joint (pivot point) holds the bracket and is part of the actuator assembly, ($51) from dealer.

Since it was not in stock at dealer, I deceided to epoxy it (2 part) and then sweat solder it back onto the actuator.

I cleaned the surface with mineral spirits and a cotton swab while being very careful to keep any of epoxy out of the actuator or pivot joint. The epoxy was fast setting (thermo reactive type). Just enought time to drag an extention cord and solder iron to the drive way.

I had my doubts that a straight epoxy would hold - but have high confidence after I melted the sucker with a solder iron at the fractures. The door will fall off before it breaks at the same spot.

Just though I'd add my info since I found this web site while trying to figure out which part I need. Thanks for the pics.