Replacing Air Filter/Air Element

[squeeze8]

I know some of you have replaced the air filter/air element filter before. This will be my first time. Any posted instructions? Any tricks to completing this task? Also, I want to purchase my own filter but don't know where on the web to procure at a reasonable price? Thanks in advance.

[john802]

In order for you to replace the air cleaner element:
1. Remove the cable clamp from the air filter housing.
2. Remove the screws/bolts from the housing and lift the cover. I
think there are 4 screws/bolts that you need to remove.
3. Remove the air cleaner element from the housing.
4. Clean the inside of the housing, then install the new filter
element.

You can buy the air filter element from our sponsor @ hondacuraworld.com.

-john

[TheWorm]

You need a pretty long screwdriver/nutdriver to reach the bolts to remove the cover. They will probably be overtorqued from the factory; I used a screwdriver and actually had to turn it w/a wrench to break one of 'em loose.

I'd suggest a 12" (min.) nutdriver but I don't know the size of the bolts.

It's an easy swap, though. www.hondacuraworld.com for the part(s).

[RipRocK]

Do a search. You'll find a thread with good instructions, complete with pictures. Also, go a search over at www.acuramdx.org site as well. There was one thread I used which included step by step instructions. I think the thread was posted by "hockeyplayer" or something like that.

[ZoneIII]

I remember reading in a forum here a while back about how difficult some people thought changing the air filter was. Having worked on my own cars for 40 years now, I am aware of how manufacturers can design some things so that even what should be the most routine maintenance is very difficult. Some Chyrslers were notorious for having their air cleaners designed in such a way that changing it was time-consuming and difficult. Then there were cars that had to have the engine mounts unbolted and the engine jacked up just to change spark plugs!

So, when I read some posts in a thread here I thought that maybe Honda made it difficult to change the air filter. As it turns out, nothing could be further from the truth so don't pay much heed to anything you might have read here (in other threads) about it being a difficult job. I had mine out in less than 2 minutes from the time I opened the hood. Yes, you do need a long shanked phillips head screw driver. No, they are not on too tight - well maybe for some people who aren't'
used to working on things, have very weak wrists, or possibly on a car that has not had the filter removed for a very long time, but I found mine to be tightened appropriately and easily removed. In fact, they came out with no problem at all. I would suggest, however, that you put a dab of grease or a drop of oil on the threads before retightening them so that they come of easily the next time. Honda was even thoughtful enough to make the air cleaner cover so that the screws do not fall out when they are unscrewed. You don't have to worry about them dropping into the engine.

BTW, I just bought the Honda Service Manual. For anyone who likes to do their own work, I highly recommend it. I have always bought factory shop manuals for every car I have ever owned and, from what I can see after flipping through it quickly, it is one of the most clearly written and user-friendly manuals I have ever seen. Kudos to Honda!

[hop23]

I think the complaints have been centered on the replacement of the cabin air filter, not the engine air filter. Replacing the cabin air filter requires removing the glove box and and a metal bar in front of the air conditioner. In addition, the first filter change requires cutting away and discarding a plastic piece in front of the metal bar.

[ZoneIII]

No, I am referring to complaints about replacing the air filter. I am aware of the posts about the dust and pollen filter. In fact, I posted a question about that myself. There were posts that complained that it was very hard to replace the air filter.

[john802]

Originally posted by ZoneIII
No, I am referring to complaints about replacing the air filter. I am aware of the posts about the dust and pollen filter. In fact, I posted a question about that myself. There were posts that complained that it was very hard to replace the air filter.

Replacing the air filter is not very hard to do provided that you have the proper tools and the screws for the cover are not so tight. The first time I remove the air filter cover to clean the inside and check the air filter, I have to use a power screw driver w/ a long 8mm nut driver extension just to remove one of the screws. Maybe the screws on the housing of your air filter are properly torque but some members doesn't have that luxury like myself.

[jay]

Originally posted by john802

Replacing the air filter is not very hard to do provided that you have the proper tools and the screws for the cover are not so tight. The first time I remove the air filter cover to clean the inside and check the air filter, I have to use a power screw driver w/ a long 8mm nut driver extension just to remove one of the screws. Maybe the screws on the housing of your air filter are properly torque but some members doesn't have that luxury like myself.

I'm in the didn't have the luxury camp (or real desire after meeting a bit of resistance). At one time I tried to check the air filter, and gave up. Too much effort for my tool set. Why they couldn't use those quick-release clamps you find on other manufacturers' air boxes, who knows?

[ZoneIII]

It is not a luxury at all. Despite what you say, the screws are not in that tight. They are torqued at the factory and their design won't even allow them to be that tight unless they are rusted on. A torque driver will not give you any more torque than your wrist. All torque is transferred to your wrist. It just makes things go a little faster. I would be willing to bet you $1000 that I can remove your screws without any problem at all (provided they aren't rusted on) as easily and quickly as I did mine. Forty years of working on cars tells me this. BTW, the factory torques them to spec.

No insult intended, but I am amazed at how incredibly helpless some people can be these days and making a big issue of loosening four screws just about takes the cake. If you really can't turn your screws with the aid of power tools, I suggest that you eat some Wheaties and hit the gym.

In answer to the other poster who asked if there are any tricks....no - none at all. Just have a long Phillips head on hand. That's all. Pull off the cable in the two places (no tools - 5 seconds to do) and loosen the four screws. Lift off cover. Nothing to it despite what some many have you believe here.


Geez!

[jay]

Originally posted by ZoneIII
It is not a luxury at all. Despite what you say, the screws are not in that tight. They are torqued at the factory and their design won't even allow them to be that tight unless they are rusted on. A torque driver will not give you any more torque than your wrist. All torque is transferred to your wrist. It just makes things go a little faster. I would be willing to bet you $1000 that I can remove your screws without any problem at all (provided they aren't rusted on) as easily and quickly as I did mine. Forty years of working on cars tells me this. BTW, the factory torques them to spec.

No insult intended, but I am amazed at how incredibly helpless some people can be these days and making a big issue of loosening four screws just about takes the cake. If you really can't turn your screws with the aid of power tools, I suggest that you eat some Wheaties and hit the gym.

In answer to the other poster who asked if there are any tricks....no - none at all. Just have a long Phillips head on hand. That's all. Pull off the cable in the two places (no tools - 5 seconds to do) and loosen the four screws. Lift off cover. Nothing to it despite what some many have you believe here.


Geez!

I guess my "too subtle" point was that after managing the maintenance of my vehicles for 30+ years, even Honda made it more difficult than it needs to be. Why should we need any tool to change the air filter. Even on my '65 Pontiac Lemans - my first car, a convertible, too - I could twist off a wingnut without reaching in the tool box. The Pilot was the very first vehicle where I looked closely under the hood and said, uh, what is this ....curse word. Besides, at my age and interest level, I carry one tool that fixes everything on my car - a VISA card. Don't care for Wheaties but do hit the fitness center.

Of course, if the Pilot had the quick-release clamps, some of us would be griping about how hard they are to close, or b$tching about pinching ourselves.

[TheWorm]

There are plenty of MDX and Pilot owners who have commented on how tight the air filter screws are from the factory (not to mention the location, and the use of screws rather than latches). If yours weren't cranked down, consider yourself fortunate.

IIRC those screws don't have an official torque spec, which means they probably fall into the 8-12 lbft range for "unspec'd"; if they were torqued properly at the factory in that range, it would require little effort to remove them. I would guess based on the amount of effort I needed to break one loose that it was in the 25lbft neighborhood.

Overtorqued bolts from the factory are not uncommon, especially "non critical" ones that have no official torque specification.

[hop23]

Originally posted by TheWorm
Overtorqued bolts from the factory are not uncommon, especially "non critical" ones that have no official torque specification.

When I changed the rear differential fluid in my Pilot, I about busted my hand getting the factory-torqued fill plug off.

[TheWorm]

I use a breaker bar on my toothpaste

[surferbum]

The four screws were simple to get loosen for my job. Initially one of the screws had too tight an access for my extended, 8mm (5/16" works too) driver. Studied my tool box and found a simple solution. I had a 12" Phillips-head screw driver but the bit slots were too large for the screw head. I found that inserting the bit of the Phillips head into an 8mm, 1/4" driver socket-end allowed for a secure connection for both loosening & tightening the screws. I used a strip of duct tape to keep the socket and screw driver connected.

Total job time < 5 minutes. The filter was dirtier than I expected.