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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 38
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The old fluid looked brand new. I'm starting to wonder if changing this stuff every 15k miles is overkill, especially at $24 a gallon. Kind of reminds me of Honda's recommendation of changing the brake fluid, one of the things I see as not needed. I mean, what can go wrong with the fluid any way? It looks like tranny fluid and does not get the workout that a tranny can get and it's change interval is 30k.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
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'03 Pilot EX Sagebrush |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 19
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Pilot pilot,
I think the manual says first diff fluid change is after 15K, then at every 30K interval. I changed the diff fluid this weekend, and noticed the same. My neighbor, who used to be a service manager at a Dodge dealer, told me "just check this stuff to see if there's dirty in the oil, if not, you don't need to change this stuff ..." I didn't listen to him, changed it anyway. The oil came out real clean, like brand new. How much diff fluid did you use up? Did you use up all the 1 gallon? I managed to pump in about 3/4 gallon. I felt it's hard to pump in the oil, some spilt out initially, so I was afraid not put in enough back in. Just want to check with those who performed DIY diff fuild change. Thanks. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Member
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I think the book says to change the rear diff fluid at 15k, 30k and then every 30K after that. I guess they want to remove any metal shavings/dust that occurs during break-in. BTW, did you think to wipe off the magnet on the lower plug.
I thought more about my tranny comparison and it came to me... The tranny has a filter but the rear diff does not. I guess that's the reason for more frequent changes. I also had to pump in about 3/4 of a gallon. The manual says it takes 3 quarts. Yeah, pumping was a bear. I must have pumped for 20 minutes straight. The entire time while laying there I was thinking to myself if I should just pay the dealer to do it next time.
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'03 Pilot EX Sagebrush |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 19
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You are right, 1st diff fluid change at 15K then at 30K miles, then every 30K miles afterward.
Yes I noticed the short magnetic rod on the lower plug, it had some metal shaving on it. I managed to wiped it clean before installing it back in. Thanks. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Ancient Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: SC
Posts: 260
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Quote:
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2003 Honda Pilot EX, 1996 Ford F350 Powerstroke Crew Cab 4x4, 2004 Suzuki DL1000, 2000 Suzuki SV-650, 1998 Honda XR400, 2000 Kawasaki KDX200, 2000 Dodge Durango(company car), 1997 Ford Taurus(son's college car), 1988 Mazda B2200(other son's first car), 1988 Camaro POS project car |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Chicago, NW Burbs
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Quote:
Well you asked! 6 changes over 150,000 miles at $24 each is not a lot in the end. Some people here (not ME!) will spend that much on Wax! It is like tyranny fluid and degrades with time and use. The Rear has wet clutches that wear with use and the fluid picks up the material. As for brake fluid, Honda's recommendation to change it is right on. Almost ALL brake hydraulic problems are caused by old fluid. Most cars recommend the system be flushed every two years, most never do it and some time before 100,000 miles you end up replacing a master cylinder, wheel cylinder or caliper. At that point the seals in the rest of the system are no better, they just have not failed YET! All to save $5 of fluid every 2 years.
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However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results. Sir Winston Churchill |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Olde Timer Administrator
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Quote:
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'10 Honda Pilot EX-L '11 Ford Mustang GT/CS '12 Yamaha XT1200Z Enjoy Life Today Yesterday Is Gone Tomorrow May Never Come |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Olde Timer Administrator
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Quote:
Just my .02 YMMV
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'10 Honda Pilot EX-L '11 Ford Mustang GT/CS '12 Yamaha XT1200Z Enjoy Life Today Yesterday Is Gone Tomorrow May Never Come |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Super Senior Member
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How does one go about changing brake fluid???
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'03 Starlight Silver EX-L...Rear Splash Guards, Cargo Tray, All-Season Mats (Husky Liners In Front), Trailer Hitch, 3M Clear Nose Mask, K&N Performance Air and Oil Filters, Mobil1 5W-20 Oil, Sylvania Silver Star Bulbs, FS Spare, Michelin X Terrains, Bosch Micro Edge Excel Wiper Blades, Amsoil ATF, Bosch Premium Oil Filters, Purolator PureONE Oil Filters, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Akebono Ceramic Pads, Brembo Rotors- |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Super Senior Member
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2012 Toyota Highlander Hybrid Limited "When you get to the fork in the road, take it." --Yogi Berra |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
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Quote:
You use the same procedure as bleeding the brakes, except you start by draining the brake reservoir and refilling it with new fluid. You then bleed each caliper till you see the new fluid. If you use a clear hose on the bleeder screw you can usually see a slight difference in fluid color or clarity.
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However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results. Sir Winston Churchill |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Super Senior Member
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Quote:
Thanks for clarifying. thread drift-- Did your trip to D.C. get re-scheduled?
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2012 Toyota Highlander Hybrid Limited "When you get to the fork in the road, take it." --Yogi Berra |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
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Just got back last night. Now the waiting starts. (I hate this game!)
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However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results. Sir Winston Churchill |
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