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Old 03-10-2013, 12:26 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default DIY Engine Oil & Filter Change (2013 Pilot)

DIY Engine Oil & Filter Change (2013 Pilot)

You will need 4.5 Quarts of oil, an oil filter, engine drain bolt washer, a ratchet, and 17mm socket.

What I use for my engine oil and filter:
1. Mobil 1 Synthetic fluid
2. Napa Gold 1334 (Honda S2000 filter)

The engine oil from the factory is a dark chocolate color as you will see from the pictures.

Parts:


Remove the engine cover:


Remove the engine fill bolt:


Locate the engine oil drain bolt. (left side of picture)




Remove the engine oil drain bolt:


Ensure you place the container under the engine drain bolt prior to removing the bolt:




Allow 4.5 all oil to drain. May take about 5-10 minutes to stop dripping. Once the o

Once the oil is finished draining reinstall the engine oil drain bolt. In my case I bought a magnetic drain bolt from Magnetic Oil Drain Plug Honda Pilot 2003-2012

It is a very strong magnet and well worth the money.




Reinstall the engine oil drain bolt:


Time to remove the engine oil filter. It is located left of the engine oil drain bolt (as you face from front to rear). Mine is the original Honda Oil filter pictured in blue. You can also see the filter if you look from the passenger front tire to under the Pilot.

Move the container under the engine oil filter:


More pictures of the engine oil filter:




You should be able to loosen the oil filter by hand but if it is the original OEM filter you may need to use a oil filter wrench to remove it. The new oil filter can be hand tightened or the use of a oil filter wrench can be used, either way before install the oil filter apply new oil to the O-Ring: (An old FRAM oil filter I have says to hand tighten the oil filter) It is a good idea to have a oil filter wrench in your tool box.


Once the oil filter is loose some oil will drain down the filter and into the container. You can wear rubber gloves or remove it very quickly and stand the chance of getting oil on your hand. Once you have remove the old oil filter get the new one and ADD oil to the new filter O-ring.

Here is a side by side picture of the Honda filter and the new Napa Gold 1334 (Honda S2000) filter.






Install the new filter...the filter can be hand tightened or tightened by using a oil filter wrench:


Place funnel in the oil fill hole:


Ensure your oil filter and engine oil drain bolt are installed prior to pouring engine oil into the engine:

Place funnel in the engine fill hole:


Pour 4.5 qts of engine oil into the funnel:


Reinstall engine oil cap:


Reinstall engine cover:


Check engine oil level with engine oil dipstick.

Resetting Engine Oil Life Display. Owners manual page 384
1. Turn the ignition switch to on position II
2. Display the engine oil life by repeatedly pressing the (Select/Reset) knob
3. Press and hold the knob for 10 seconds or more
a. The information display shows the reset mode initial display
4. Press and hold the knob for 5 seconds or more
a. The displayed maintenance items disappear and the engine oil life display will return to 100%.

NOTICE: Failure to reset the engine oil life after a maintenance service results in the system showing incorrect maintenance intervals, which can lead to serious mechanical problems.

Last edited by Armystrong; 03-10-2013 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Nice instructions, but good luck with the "you should be able to loosen the oil filter by hand" step. Sometimes you can, but often (probably more often than not), the gasket will be somewhat stuck to the engine and it won't come off by hand. The appropriate oil filter wrench is really a must-have for DIY oil changing.

How to torque an oil filter is always a controversial subject. If by "Hand tight" you mean getting it as tight as physically possible without using a wrench, then I've found this works well also, but it should be noted that this is a shadetree method and not what Honda recommends. They say you SHOULD use a wrench and either torque to a specific torque spec or turn the filter 3/4 a turn after the gasket seats. My experience is that you have to have VERY strong hands to be able to match the recommended torque spec and most who are hand-tightening filters are leaving them somewhat under-torqued.

- Mark

Last edited by whizmo; 03-10-2013 at 05:09 AM.
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Old 03-10-2013, 12:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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First of all this is a very nice write-up. The only thing I would question is the 5W-20 oil when Honda recommends 0W-20
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Old 03-10-2013, 12:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMG View Post
First of all this is a very nice write-up. The only thing I would question is the 5W-20 oil when Honda recommends 0W-20
You are absolutely correct, Honda does recommend 0W-20 for the 2013 Pilot where as my 2005 Pilot Honda recommended 5W-20. 0W-20 is a very thin oil used for optimum fuel efficiency and cold weather start ups. 5W-20 synthetic is also a superior fluid as it too offers outstanding cold weather start up and fuel efficiency. 0W-20 is just a tad bit thinner. You are the owner and should choose the appropriate engine oil weight for you Pilot. I have removed the weight from my write so I don't mislead anyone. Good catch and thank you.
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Old 03-10-2013, 12:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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at 1600miles on the pilot and I notice you have scratches on the oil pan already, not sure how the pilot looks after 80k lol...

As for the Oil for the new car all the engine parts internals gapped etc... Honda recommend for 0w-20, I would stick with that. As it still new and all the gaps haven't loosen up yet, so this may give the engine more tress to break in. Normally if the car is over 60k peoples would some times go with lighter weight if it was very cold in Winter where rec was 5w-20, I would go with 0w-20 for winter and stick with 5w-20 in summer. I see a few less knowledge peoples tend to go with 10w30 instead of 5w30 because they think their high mileage internals has loosen up, so they op for thicker oil weight. I'm not sure if that's the right way to do it. Otherwise you need to include how to reset the maintenance minder also will make this a good DIY without having to jump on another thread to find out how to reset it. As I did oil change for my Pilot once but never remember how cuz it's like once a year not like older car that you do it often but don't need to reset anything but a sticker on the windshield.

Also most peoples would grease the new filter gasket when hand tight the new filter. Also always double check when removed the old filter the old gasket doesn't stick back, but I don't think it's necessary because the new car oil filter design is very easy vision unlike older car is facing the firewall.
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whizmo View Post
Nice instructions, but good luck with the "you should be able to loosen the oil filter by hand" step. Sometimes you can, but often (probably more often than not), the gasket will be somewhat stuck to the engine and it won't come off by hand. The appropriate oil filter wrench is really a must-have for DIY oil changing.

How to torque an oil filter is always a controversial subject. If by "Hand tight" you mean getting it as tight as physically possible without using a wrench, then I've found this works well also, but it should be noted that this is a shadetree method and not what Honda recommends. They say you SHOULD use a wrench and either torque to a specific torque spec or turn the filter 3/4 a turn after the gasket seats. My experience is that you have to have VERY strong hands to be able to match the recommended torque spec and most who are hand-tightening filters are leaving them somewhat under-torqued.

- Mark
Good point. It is your option to hand tighten or use an oil filter wrench. Ensure you add new oil to the O-Ring prior to installation.
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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After that quick correction........ all I can say is NICE WRITE-UP and clear pictures (something I can never do, since I shake toooo much).
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Im2c0oL View Post
at 1600miles on the pilot and I notice you have scratches on the oil pan already, not sure how the pilot looks after 80k lol...

As for the Oil for the new car all the engine parts internals gapped etc... Honda recommend for 0w-20, I would stick with that. As it still new and all the gaps haven't loosen up yet, so this may give the engine more tress to break in. Normally if the car is over 60k peoples would some times go with lighter weight if it was very cold in Winter where rec was 5w-20, I would go with 0w-20 for winter and stick with 5w-20 in summer. I see a few less knowledge peoples tend to go with 10w30 instead of 5w30 because they think their high mileage internals has loosen up, so they op for thicker oil weight. I'm not sure if that's the right way to do it. Otherwise you need to include how to reset the maintenance minder also will make this a good DIY without having to jump on another thread to find out how to reset it. As I did oil change for my Pilot once but never remember how cuz it's like once a year not like older car that you do it often but don't need to reset anything but a sticker on the windshield.

Also most peoples would grease the new filter gasket when hand tight the new filter. Also always double check when removed the old filter the old gasket doesn't stick back, but I don't think it's necessary because the new car oil filter design is very easy vision unlike older car is facing the firewall.
The scratches you see on the oil pan are actually aluminum grind down by the factory after the oil pan comes out of the cast. Excellent point on resetting the maintenance minder. I will add that to the write up. Thank You.
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Any reason why you don't fill the new filter with oil before installing it?
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Any reason why you don't fill the new filter with oil before installing it?
You're talking milliseconds difference, and any car that has a horizontal filter you cant fill it if you want to. So, pre-fillling is here nor there.

The only issue I have with the write up is the mileage the oil was changed. That could also be removed IMO. I firmly believe there is good reason to follow Honda's recommendation not to change the oil prematurely. The color of the oil, any oil, has little meaning regarding its life or containment level. All of this is a long standing, easily researched, fact.

Regarding weight, 0w-20 vs 5w-20 is extremely slight. I even run 5w-30 during summer towing months, just for a warm fuzzy feeling. I found no difference in MPG or "feeling" at all.
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Old 03-10-2013, 03:39 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You're talking milliseconds difference, and any car that has a horizontal filter you cant fill it if you want to. So, pre-fillling is here nor there.
So you don't believe that most engine wear occurs at start up?

Does it really take only "milliseconds" for the oil to be pumped from the pan and for the empty filter to get filled?

What is the relevance, here, of the "horizontal filter" statement?

Does your Pilot have the oil filter installed horizontally?
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by xGS View Post
So you don't believe that most engine wear occurs at start up?

Does it really take only "milliseconds" for the oil to be pumped from the pan and for the empty filter to get filled?

What is the relevance, here, of the "horizontal filter" statement?

Does your Pilot have the oil filter installed horizontally?
I didn't say anything about start up wear. If you believe pre-filling helps prevent some, have at it. Oil remains in most lines and the filter is full in less than one second.

The relevance of the horizontal filter, which cannot be pre-filled, is that there are more Honda engines with a horizontal filter than vertical. (Not to mention so many other OEM's) If pre-filling oil filters was important 1) engine designers would not use horizontal placed oil filters, 2) OEM's would give special instructions to pre-fill the oil filter.

As I said, it is here, nor there. Its yet another personal choice.
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RinconVTR View Post
You're talking milliseconds difference, and any car that has a horizontal filter you cant fill it if you want to. So, pre-fillling is here nor there.

The only issue I have with the write up is the mileage the oil was changed. That could also be removed IMO. I firmly believe there is good reason to follow Honda's recommendation not to change the oil prematurely. The color of the oil, any oil, has little meaning regarding its life or containment level. All of this is a long standing, easily researched, fact.

Regarding weight, 0w-20 vs 5w-20 is extremely slight. I even run 5w-30 during summer towing months, just for a warm fuzzy feeling. I found no difference in MPG or "feeling" at all.
Thanks for the recommendation. I included the maintenance reset procedures and deleted the mileage. Although the color has little meaning seeing dark chocolate oil is rare for me because I normally see light gray to black oil color. Last time I saw dark chocolate oil was with when I changed the oil in my new 2005 Honda Pilot.
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:54 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RinconVTR View Post
I didn't say anything about start up wear. If you believe pre-filling helps prevent some, have at it. Oil remains in most lines and the filter is full in less than one second.
If, as you seem to assert, start up with an empty filter is not an issue, then why does the oil filter incorporate an anti-drainback valve?
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
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If, as you seem to assert, start up with an empty filter is not an issue, then why does the oil filter incorporate an anti-drainback valve?
I'm certain you know the answer, but I'll bite.

The diaphragm check valve, known as the anti-drainback feature in the majority of automotive oil filters is so the hoses, pipes, and filter do not empty into the oil pan after every shut down. (yes, the same areas that drain during a filter change) This is critical for filters in a horizontal position.

And while this feature/device is important, you could have a bad one (or one that doesn't form a good seal) in any given filter and never know. Not during use, or long term. Luckily, its normal service life is one year or less.

Anyway...the comparison between the anti-drainback valve and pre-filling the filter during an oil change is the sheer number of start ups. You change your oil twice, or may be three times a year. That's 2-3 start ups vs at least 1,000 over one normal year.
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