Best brake/rotor combination for towing and noise?

[jham]

I have an '05 Pilot with 131k miles. Last fall, I replaced the front brakes, rotors and calipers with Hawk LTS pads, DBA 4x4 Survival rotors, and OEM calipers. (I used the Hawk pads on an '03 Odyssey before and liked the stopping power for towing my boat. Eventually the rotors were replaced with PowerSlot Cryo rotors and all was fine.) However, my Pilot started producing a very annoying squeal after a few weeks. I cleaned and reassembled the brakes with the old shims added to try to stop the vibration, but it did not make a difference. I've done many brake jobs and have never had such a problem.

It is now time to replace the rear brakes and calipers. I don't want additional squeal from there, too. Anyone have recommendations for good pad and rotor combinations for towing and town driving? Do I need to stick with OEM pads to prevent the squeal?

[jamesgarner83]

Why are you replacing your calipers? Do you mean pads? Unless something is damaged or they are leaking I would not replace the calipers. As far as pads OEM is best. I would take my rotors and have them machined if possible. If the rotors are unable to be machined then buy OEM. If your calipers are damaged or leaking then I would replace with OEM if they are not damaged reuse them. If you have not already bleed your brake fluid now might be a good time, this should be done once every three years.

[N_Jay]

I have had good luck with Honda pads and Brembo rotors.
Non-slotted non-drilled, but if I did it again, I might move up to slotted.

[jham]

Originally Posted by jamesgarner83

Why are you replacing your calipers? Do you mean pads? Unless something is damaged or they are leaking I would not replace the calipers. As far as pads OEM is best. I would take my rotors and have them machined if possible. If the rotors are unable to be machined then buy OEM. If your calipers are damaged or leaking then I would replace with OEM if they are not damaged reuse them. If you have not already bleed your brake fluid now might be a good time, this should be done once every three years.

I replaced the front calipers due to the bleed bolts being seized and twisting off when I tried to flush the lines. One of the pistons was also seized. I planned to reuse the rear calipers, but the bleed bolts are seized there as well. I will reuse the rotors if they look good, but am open to replacing if there would be something better for handling the towing. (I don’t think the regular “major” maintenance interval items were performed on this vehicle before I purchased it. I found the cabin filter to be original at 128k miles, as the plastic brace had not been cut.)

[denpilot]

Originally Posted by jham

I replaced the front calipers due to the bleed bolts being seized and twisting off when I tried to flush the lines. One of the pistons was also seized. I planned to reuse the rear calipers, but the bleed bolts are seized there as well. I will reuse the rotors if they look good, but am open to replacing if there would be something better for handling the towing. (I don’t think the regular “major” maintenance interval items were performed on this vehicle before I purchased it. I found the cabin filter to be original at 128k miles, as the plastic brace had not been cut.)

I have been having this talk with my technicians today about what pads I should buy for the rear of my 2006 Pilot. My opinion is that OEM Honda pads are the best. My technician thinks that Bendix Import Quiet pads are the best.

Further, I have always experienced OEM pads to last about 2-3x longer than aftermarket pads.

[94eg!]

The Honda pads for this vehicle are made by Akebono. Great pads and lasted 93k miles in the front of my 04 EXL. The rears are still going at 106k. Had the same experience on an 03 Element AWD that my wife and I bought new. Sold it in 09 w/ 95k miles and the original pads.

I never towed anything though...

[rocky]

When does the squeal occur?
Do you use anti squeak when installing the pads?

[denpilot]

Originally Posted by jham

I replaced the front calipers due to the bleed bolts being seized and twisting off when I tried to flush the lines. One of the pistons was also seized. I planned to reuse the rear calipers, but the bleed bolts are seized there as well. I will reuse the rotors if they look good, but am open to replacing if there would be something better for handling the towing. (I don’t think the regular “major” maintenance interval items were performed on this vehicle before I purchased it. I found the cabin filter to be original at 128k miles, as the plastic brace had not been cut.)

You mention that you replaced calipers. Did you use OEM honda calipers? If not, the reconditioning/remanufacturing process typically involves a light sandblasting of the housing to get rid of any debris/paint/etc. This can allow the pads to have the slightest looseness. Many times this can be fixed by just getting the new hardware kit which is shims, clips, caliper bolt guides, etc.

Also, depending on the brake pads you bought - the same issue - the metal backing of the pad can have the slightest deviation ( aftermarket pads are made to fit a multi-vehicle and multi-year range of vehicles ) of size.

The cheaper the parts you're buying, the lesser quality of material and reconditioning that is involved with them.

[94eg!]

Originally Posted by denpilot

Also, depending on the brake pads you bought - the same issue - the metal backing of the pad can have the slightest deviation ( aftermarket pads are made to fit a multi-vehicle and multi-year range of vehicles ) of size.

All brake pads are designed this way, not just cheapo's. The difference is how the backing plates are produced. Some are crappy stamped steel pieces produced by worn/inaccurate dies producing jagged edges. Quality pads use a positive mold to shape the backing plate producing smooth edges and perfect tolerance time and time again. Worst pads I ever worked with were Axxis Ulitmates and some of the Autozone C-Max pads. The Axxis pads required a lot of grinding to get them to slide smooth in the brackets. The C-max pads were too long to even fit at all. Neither of those pads are considered "cheap" by any means.

The best pads I've worked with include Nissin, Akebono & Centric (Centric also makes stoptech). All of which are OEM parts suppliers.

BTW: If your in need of an extreme duty street pad (probably great for towing), take a look at the 309-Stoptech compound from Centric. They offer an operating temp range up to 1200*f coupled with excellent cold bite. I put them on the front of my Civic hotrod, and I'm loving them. Quiet, low dust, with great response. For my 04 Pilot the part numbers are 309.09140 front & 309.08650 rear.

BRAKE FRICTION - Centric Parts

[leo38cheng]

*Have a 07 Pilot, of all the brake pads out there... are Honda one's the best?