is A/C recharge a DIY job?

[njitgrad]

I've done things like replace my own cabin air filter in my '04 EX but am not sure how involved the process of recharging A/C can be and especially what tools/supplies I need.

Is this advisable for someone that is not mechanically inclined but can follow instructions well? My A/C has never been recharged since I bought it 7 years ago.

A DIY video would be nice!

[hollaway24]

It can be done just buy the can with the guage that comes with it. The instructions are pretty straight foward.

[hkellogg]

I would have it vacuum'ed down and checked for leaks first. then I would recharge it if everything was kosher

[rocky]

Originally Posted by hkellogg

I would have it vacuum'ed down and checked for leaks first. then I would recharge it if everything was kosher

Spot on.

Also, if you under charge or overcharge the system, its performance will be reduced and you risk damaging components

[krazykarguy]

I can also speak to this, as I just went through this myself.

You CAN recharge the system yourself, but the only reason you'd need to do that is because there is a leak somewhere. Anything you put in will disappear nearly as fast.

Here's what I did:
1.) Buy a can of R-134a with yellow tracer dye in it
2.) Circulate this in the system for a few days - your A/C will work at first, but won't after 48 hours (because of the leak)
3.) Dig up a black light and locate the leak - it glows bright yellow under the black light (mine was the condenser)
4.) Replace the leaking component(s) AND use new Honda OEM o-rings for every joint taken apart/disconnected
5a.) Take it to a qualified shop to have the A/C system vacuum tested and re-filled with R-134a AND some more PAG oil for the compressor ($75 for me)
OR
5b.) Find a big chain store that rents/lends out BOTH an electric vacuum pump and A/C gauge sets that connect to the low and high sides of the system. Purchase the correct quantity of R134a (24.5-28 oz. IIRC) and follow some online directions to recharge. I would have went this route myself, but no FLAPS near me offered these things for rental.

[megatron]

As others have said, the bottom line is the you should NOT have to recharge your system if there is no leak. Just because it's 7 years old, doesn't mean it's time for a recharge. Ideally, you never have to recharge your A/C.

But if you do, definitely find the leak first... no point refilling into a leaky system. And after you fix the leak, vacuum it out and refill with new freon and oil.

[njitgrad]

Originally Posted by megatron

As others have said, the bottom line is the you should NOT have to recharge your system if there is no leak.

Well I guess that sums it up. Logic dictates that in my case there is a high probability that I have a leak, something that I am not qualified to diagnose and/or remedy, and as such, will be dropping it off at my dealer. The basic service which includes vacuuming and injecting dye is $150. I'd rather pay that amount than futz around with something I'm not familiar with. If there is a leak I wouldn't know how to fix it anyway.

And now that I think about it...lately I have been hearing a gurgling sound coming from the dashboard area near the glove box, even with the air turned off.

I hate to be a quitter but in this case I'll leave it up to someone qualified plus I get a loaner for the day which is crucial for me.

Thanks for all the advice.

[N_Jay]

Gurgling is usually an undercharge.

Risk is a very small overcharge can destroy a Honda compressor.

[megatron]

Originally Posted by njitgrad

Well I guess that sums it up. Logic dictates that in my case there is a high probability that I have a leak, something that I am not qualified to diagnose and/or remedy, and as such, will be dropping it off at my dealer. The basic service which includes vacuuming and injecting dye is $150. I'd rather pay that amount than futz around with something I'm not familiar with. If there is a leak I wouldn't know how to fix it anyway.

And now that I think about it...lately I have been hearing a gurgling sound coming from the dashboard area near the glove box, even with the air turned off.

I hate to be a quitter but in this case I'll leave it up to someone qualified plus I get a loaner for the day which is crucial for me.

Thanks for all the advice.

If you hear GURGLING near the glove box when the A/C is OFF (and has been off for a while... i.e. not just turned off), then you have an antifreeze issue, like it's low or something. Freon should not gurgle even if it's low when it hasn't been turn on, unless you have a massive leak and it's boiling away.... but then in that case, your freon would be all gone really quick and you won't hear gurgling anymore.

I would have the dealer check that gurgling out too... sounds like bubbles in the heater core.

[hkellogg]

no charge = compressor not turning on at all

low charge= compressor turning kicking on and off in small short spurts

regular charge= compressor fully engaged and says engaged

gurgling in glovebox area means low coolant and air going through heater core

[N_Jay]

Gurgling/hissing can be low freon causing gas bubbles on the high pressure side of the expansion valve (in the evaporator behind the glove box)

[belundy]

All non-hermetic systems lose refrigerant over time--typically past compressor shaft seals in the winter. After 7 years, it very well could be low enough to start loud hissing/gurgling, which means poor performance in hot weather. Most systems hiss very *slightly*, which you might notice idling with the radio off and low fan speeds.

Perfectly fine R134 systems may hiss intermittently at curb idle in hot weather.

If the charge is a fair bit below nominal below, the compressor will kick out when you get above 2000 RPM or so (RECIRC mode, front doors open, high fan). You'll also see the low pressure side fall and dip below 20 or so.

If the charge is on the edge of being low, they'll hiss or gurgle intermittently, the performance may not be best, but the LOW pressure will typically stay above low cutoff (typically 17 ~20).

I'd add 4 ounces at a time and test again per *above* until LOW pressure side maintains mid-30's to 40. I wouldn't add more than 12 ounces. A system where the compressor could be coaxed to engage at least *some* of the time shouldn't take more than 12 ounces to bring it close to nominal.

You can gauge more or less how much refrig you've added by feeling the can when the valve is open and the compressor is engaged. Feel for where the cold starts.

If you get low pressures above 50 under test conditions, you've probably overcharged or something else is wrong (bad compressor, radiator fan, expansion valve...)