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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Atlanta (McDonough), GA
Posts: 1
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Hello, I'm an avid DIYer looking to change for the first time on my 2003 Honda Pilot LX the Brakes. This will be my first time changing the Brakes since I purchased the Pilot used 2 years ago. It now has 113,000 miles on it.
I'm looking at using Ceramic Pads with Slotted Rotors for the front and Ceramic Pads with Regular Rotors for the Rear, possible even just having them turned. I do drive aggressively and we typically have the Pilot full with the family (7/8). My real concern is knowing the tools that will be needed to do the job. I don't want to start the job and have to make trips to the store if I don't have to. I live a bit from the nearest store as well. Any help or even criticism regarding my brake choices would be greatly appreciated. Thank You |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 23
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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- jack
- preferably a jack stand or some other support to hold the car up after jacking it up - metric wrench or ratchet/socket set - To change rotors, an "impact" screw driver and a hammer. These are inexpensive ($10-$15) and can be found at Autozone or other chain auto part stores. The rotors are held on by two philips head screws. These are usually a bit corroded and tough to break free. The impact screw driver will break these free easily without any damage. You might be able to do the same thing with a large quality built philips screw driver (hitting the handle with a hammer can sometimes break them free too). Don't be shy with the hammer! - drum brake adjustment wrench (or you may be able to use a standard screw driver) to bring in the emergency brake shoes within the rear rotors. Many folks forget these are there and try to force the rotor off. This can damage the emergency brake stuff at the rear wheels.
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2004 Pilot EX |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: kansas
Posts: 201
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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i havent personally seen the screws that hold the pilots' rotor on but my past experience with these screws and honda/acura rotors is that a #3 phillips works much better than a #2 phillips. and the impact screwdriver is the way to go. if you try a manual screwdriver and strip the head, you might as well drill the screw head off. maybe someone can confirm that?
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'06 EX-L Amazon Green Metallic |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Super Senior Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Red Sox Nation
Posts: 7,174
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Review threads on this forum covering brake changes.
The screws on mine were a b*tch to get out after 5 years and 100k in New England. You might be luckier.
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https://www.facebook.com/pages/Chris...19131498101662 |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 519
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
I have to grind or drill out the heads of the assembly screws on nearly every break job I do here in Ohio. If you get snow in your area and have 50k or more on your brakes, good luck getting them out.
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2009 DCP Touring, Navi & RES 2004 Acura TSX (bunch of mods b/c its fun) 2008 Ducati 1098 R.I.P. |
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