DIY (J35A4) valve adjustment

[patdosa]

Nice job and pics. But let me make 1 major suggestion and 1 minor suggestion based on my experience.

(Suggestion #1)

I see that you removed only the front chamber of the intake manifold and not the entire intake manifold. (Note: By "entire intake manifold" I mean the main intake manifold body (1) and the front and rear chambers (3 and 4) mounted on the front and rear sides, respectively, of the main intake manifold body, as referenced in the picture at this link to Majestic Honda: Honda Automotive Parts)

This may be fine if you're only adjusting the front-side cylinders (2, 4, and 6). But you won't be able to work on the rear-side cylinders (1, 3, 5) by similarly removing just the rear chamber of the intake manifold. There just isn't enough room back there to see what you're doing because the main intake manifold body will get in the way.

So save yourself the trouble by leaving the front chamber alone, and instead take out the entire intake manifold body as a single unit with both the front and rear chambers still connected. Once that is removed, the spacer and two gaskets (located directly below the main intake manifold body) are freed and can be removed as well (I reused these two gaskets w/out any problem). That way both the front and rear valve covers can be removed and you have clear access to all valves. You'll also save on the two gaskets for the front/rear chambers, unless of course you wanted to open them up for cleaning.

(Suggestion #2)

From your pics #12-15 (but best seen in pic #15) I noticed that the feeler gauge you used is the same one I used. BE CAREFUL THAT GEAR-SHAPED NUT HOLDING THE TOOL TOGETHER DOESN'T COME OFF!!! Mine came off while working on cylinder #3 in the rear (which I admit was caused by my carelessness, which I'll explain more later..)

First of all, finding that little piece was a real b#$@!!!@# and a half. Not finding it was not an option b/c didn't know if (a) it just fell on some inconsequential surface in the engine bay where it would eventually just fall off the car without any complications, or (b) if it fell into some dark crevice in the valves or elsewhere inside the engine (there are several open ports visible from the top of the valves which I think are oil ports) where it would wreak havoc, mayhem and/or the death of my car.

Well I finally found it, and yes it dropped in my valve chamber next to one of the exhaust valves of cylinder #3 (which is in the fourth and last row of valves furthest in back). It was difficult to find b/c it dropped into a pool of oil next to the valve. But finding it was only part of the fun... now had to get that fr*#$#*&U@ piece of S!(#$*@! outta there. After much aggravation with various makeshift tools I made, I learned my lesson to invest in a magnetic pickup tool..

I admit, that nut fell didn't just fall off by itself. Since the intake and exhaust valves had different clearance specs, I hated having to switch between 4 different feeler plates, and having to search and find them each time from about 20 total plates. NOTE: the feeler gauge is built like a switchblade such that when you use one plate all other plates fold away. So I disassembled the feeler gauge, removed all the plates I didn't need, and screwed the nut back on with only the four I needed. This left the assembly pretty loose, and you know the rest of the story. LESSON: IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T MESS WITH IT.

Anyway, those are my 2 suggestions...I'll leave it up to you which is the major/minor one. Hope it helps.

[Willard]

Thanks for both suggestions.
I have since spoken with a Honda mechanic and he also suggested pulling the entire intake plenum (with both chambers) off to help with access.
Next time (will be soon as I have not adjusted the 3 rear cylinders ) I will do just that.

I always make sure that tool nut is tight to keep the blades from 'switching around'.

[Willard]

Originally Posted by ZoneIII

One other thing: Did you get to the back bank yet? If so, how did it go? Was it a pain to access everything?

Yes. The rear bank is done.

As mentioned by patdosa... it is a lot easier to access the rear area with the entire intake plenum removed.

-remove air intake arm (and related connections) 10mm
-unbolt throttle body (2-12mm nuts and 2-12mm bolts) (also 2-10mm bolts holding the purge control solenoid valve to the intake manifold)
-remove the intake manifold cover 10-10mm (nuts and bolts)
-remove the 7-12mm bolts (and 2-12mm nuts) that hold the manifold on
-remove upper section of the manifold (one electrical plug and 2 rubber hoses need to removed from the rear manivold cover before lifting it up and off)
-remove the plenum spacer (if you would like)
-remove the 3-10mm bolts holding the wire harness bracket to the valve cover
-remove the 1-10mm bolt holding the powe steering line to the valve cover
-remove the 3 coil packs (6mm allen)
-hold the wire harness up with some zip-ties
-remove valve cover (5-10mm bolts)
-adjust valves
-clean everything
-bolt everything backup

(I reused the throttle body gasket and all of the intake manifold gaskets (except for the new ones already purchased).)
YMMV

Throttle body unbolted (mine needed a tap to break free):


Throttle body loose:


Intake manifold fasteners:


Manifold removed:


Plenum spacer removed:


Valve cover ready to be unbolted:


Valve cover off:


127k miles worth of crud vs. ~8k miles worth of crud:


PCV inlet port (my PCV valve was clogged and needed a cleaning):


Enjoy

[ZoneIII]

Williard,

Thank you very much. That is a huge help! Your pictures are outstanding. I really appreciate this. And thanks to patdosa too for some great tips. For some odd reason, I was thinking the rear bank was almost facing and close to the firewall. Now I can see that this job can be done without that much problem at all. Good news! Thanks again.

Tom

[94eg!]

Why are you talking the thorttle body off the manifold? Are there coolant lines going to it or something?

Also, you didn't have any vacuum leaks reusing 100k+ mile manifold and TB gaskets?

PS: The torque spec for the valve adjustment nuts is 14lb/ft. I usually go back with the torque wrench after I'm done and tighten them all. I like to then double check with that the feeler still fits when it's all said & done (correct size fits, and next one up doesn't fit). Of course that means rolling the motor over to TDC on each cylinder again, but it's definitely worth it.

Also, it's best to be sure and set each cylinder to TDC (compression stroke) before adjusting the vales, and not just adjust whichever ones you can feel are loose. If the cam is in the process of ramping up the slack, you will actually be making it too loose once you adjust it and causing more noise.

Also I bought this gauge from Sears. It has EVERY step in 0.001" increments, and the angle makes it very easy to access Honda's awkward rockers for accurate readings:

[Willard]

Originally Posted by 94eg!

Why are you talking the thorttle body off the manifold? Are there coolant lines going to it or something?

Also, you didn't have any vacuum leaks reusing 100k+ mile manifold and TB gaskets?

Yes... I wanted to keep the coolant system intact.

No vacuum leaks yet. The only one that I may worry about is the TB gasket which was not metal.
The black coating on the metal manifold gaskets was intact and they cleaned up quite well. As noted above YMMV.

[skamp]

Very nice write up. This should absolutely be a sticky!

Steve

[Acura2g]

Did I miss it??? What does the exhaust and intake have to be set to? What feelers?

[94eg!]

Cold clearance (~72*)

Intake .008-.009in (.20-.24mm)
Exhaust .011-.013in (.28-.32mm)

This means that on your intake side .008 will fit and .009 will not. On your exhaust side .011 will fit, and .013 will not. If you get the tool I've shown above, it will have each of these exact blades. Totally worth the $20.

[Acura2g]

Originally Posted by 94eg!

Cold clearance (~72*)

Intake .008-.009in (.20-.24mm)
Exhaust .011-.013in (.28-.32mm)

This means that on your intake side .008 will fit and .009 will not. On your exhaust side .011 will fit, and .013 will not. If you get the tool I've shown above, it will have each of these exact blades. Totally worth the $20.

Thanks

[whizmo]

Originally Posted by 94eg!

Intake .008-.009in (.20-.24mm)
Exhaust .011-.013in (.28-.32mm)

This means that on your intake side .008 will fit and .009 will not. On your exhaust side .011 will fit, and .013 will not.

I'm being picky, but a clearance spec of .008-.009 doesn't mean that a .009 shouldn't pass. It means a .010 shouldn't pass.

- Mark

[txgp17]

------------------------EDIT------------------------
I had the upper intake manifold gasket backwards, like Willard did here.

I flipped the gasket and took it for a spin around the block and up the interstate. No more misfires or CEL.
------------------------
Hi guys,
I reviewed this thread before adjusting the lash on my wife's 04' Pilot, with just over 100,000 on it. She had a pretty noticeable tick when it was cold, but the tick disappeared when the engine reached operating temperature.

Well, I took the entire intake manifold off, so I could clean the EGR deposits out and make access to the rear bank easier.

Holy crap cleaning that intake was tough. I went through about 5 cans of carb cleaner, and that's after I knocked the bulk of the gunk out with Methyl Ethel Ketone.

I used new gaskets on everything, and took my time being clean and orderly.

I got it ball back together, and had some trouble getting it started. But after a few tries, it hit on a few cylinders, and than started to smooth out. There was no ticking anymore, and I allowed the engine temp gauge to reach normal before I took it for a spin. So I made a trip around the block and came back, allowing the engine to idle some more. Then I asked my wife to take it for a spin around the block, because she drives it daily and would notice if anything was out of whack.

She comes back and says it shuttering and the check engine light is on. Not just on steady, but blinking. I take it for a spin and sure enough, it's missing on a cylinder at moderate throttle. On medium to full, you don't notice any miss. I hook my laptop with AutoEnginuity up and read the DTC, which is P1399.

Anyone got some suggestions?

[carguy07]

Originally Posted by txgp17

Hi guys,
I reviewed this thread before adjusting the lash on my wife's 04' Pilot, with just over 100,000 on it. She had a pretty noticeable tick when it was cold, but the tick disappeared when the engine reached operating temperature.

Well, I took the entire intake manifold off, so I could clean the EGR deposits out and make access to the rear bank easier.

Holy crap cleaning that intake was tough. I went through about 5 cans of carb cleaner, and that's after I knocked the bulk of the gunk out with Methyl Ethel Ketone.

I used new gaskets on everything, and took my time being clean and orderly.

I got it ball back together, and had some trouble getting it started. But after a few tries, it hit on a few cylinders, and than started to smooth out. There was no ticking anymore, and I allowed the engine temp gauge to reach normal before I took it for a spin. So I made a trip around the block and came back, allowing the engine to idle some more. Then I asked my wife to take it for a spin around the block, because she drives it daily and would notice if anything was out of whack.

She comes back and says it shuttering and the check engine light is on. Not just on steady, but blinking. I take it for a spin and sure enough, it's missing on a cylinder at moderate throttle. On medium to full, you don't notice any miss. I hook my laptop with AutoEnginuity up and read the DTC, which is P1399.

Anyone got some suggestions?

I think others were having this problem when they were not getting a good seal on the intake gaskets. Maybe look for a vacuum leak with some carb cleaner while it's running?

DIY Intake Manifold/EGR port cleaning

[txgp17]

Originally Posted by carguy07

I think others were having this problem when they were not getting a good seal on the intake gaskets. Maybe look for a vacuum leak with some carb cleaner while it's running?

DIY Intake Manifold/EGR port cleaning

Well, it wasn't a leak, it was that I had the upper intake manifold gasket backwards, like Willard did here.

I flipped the gasket and took it for a spin around the block and up the interstate. No more misfires or CEL.

[Willard]

Originally Posted by txgp17

like Willard did here.

Glad I was not the only one.