2003 EX-L with 92400mi. - Maintenance Reccomendations

[Selfdestruct]

Hello,
I just purchased a 2003 Pilot 4x4 EX-L with 92,400mi.
The following maintenance was completed at 69,000mi. according to CarFax:
-Timing Belt
-Water Pump
-Full Alignment

I plan to perform the following maintenance on it:
--Change Engine Oil and WIX Filter (Synthetic Oil, any recommendations?, Oil has not been changed recently)

--Drain and Change Trany Fluid 3x (Currently ATF is Low on stick)
(I saw this recommended on the MDXers forums) They say to do the following: Drain, Fill, Circle the block hitting every gear; Drain, Fill, Circle the block hitting every gear; Drain, Fill, Drive.
Is this procedure good for the Pilot Tranny as well? I am not sure when/if the last ATF Maintenance has been performed.

--Differential Oil Change (I know nothing about what this takes)

--Replace Tires: 3 of 4 tires are at the wear bars, left-rear has slight cupping on the inside (due to my anemic budget, I am looking at getting a set of used Continentals with 70% tread off of CraigsList from a local tireshop)

--Full alignment with tire replacement

--Cabin Air Filter

--Sparkplugs (Check Gap and replace if they look poor)

--Air Filter (Does anyone recommend a K&N, or is there no tangible difference in performance/mileage? I've always had them on my V8's, but have heard negative reviews on smaller displacement engines)

--What else do you feel I need to check/R&R on this truck?

And lastly, is there a FAQ page with all of these DIY services spelled out, similar to THIS one on the MDXers forum? If not, is anyone interested in working with me to compile such a list?

Sorry for the long post, but I hope this information is useful to other new members in the future.
Thanks for everyone's input and all of the great info on this forum. I look forward to being a part!
Regards,
-Scott
2003 Honda Pilot EX-L

[cofetym]

If you have time selfdestruct peruse the maintenance section of the forum. Most of the work is not really that difficult and a lot of the DIY tips are outlined very well.
Use Honda fluid only in the transmission and rear diff. I run synthetic Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge in the engine 5w20.
I've used a K&N filter on my Pathfinder before without any problems. Just too cheap right now to dump the money on the Pilot.
There are several online sights that offer really good deals on all maintenance items.

Hope this helps.

[rocky]

If your car didn't come with the Owners Manual, sign on to Honda's ownerslink from Honda.com: Official Site of American Honda Motor Co., Inc. Also get to know the search button in the green line at the top of the page.

Normal intervals are every 7500miles. So there should have been a service just a couple of thou ago. I'd go ahead and do the fluid replacements now and then go with the normal 7500 interval which will mean you do the next service at 97500.

It does sound like your Pilot may have had its maintenance neglected. I'm surprised that the TB was apparently replaced at 70k-the interval is 105k or 7 years.

I like the idea of replacing fluids when you buy a car-as it creates a starting point from which you can go forward.

I am not a fan of the auto tranny fill and drain x3 cycle. Just do it once. Then if you want to do it again at say 105k. I dislike Honda's 45k auto tranny fluid replacement intervals and do mine at 22,500.

The Rear diff fluid change is detailed in this forum. Do NOT use 90wt. Go to the dealer and buy VTM4 fluid. Its the easiest of all fluid changes.

Air filter just stick with a normal one from the parts store. Don't waste your $ on a K&N. Unless it makes you feel good.

I ran a truck on Synthetic oil but don't think the investment was worth it-stick with the correct grade of dino fluid.

Cabin filter is also detailed in this forum, easy job.

Forget about the plugs. They are not scheduled for replacement until 105k and don't need to be looked at until then.

[Selfdestruct]

Thanks cofetym and rocky. Since I wrote up my first post, I realize I may have jumped the gun and should have read through more of the stickies. I'll be performing each of the DIY guides soon and will let you all know how it goes. I appreciate you taking the time to respond.
-Regards-

[rocky]

Welcome to the forum, wont take you long to get to know your Pilot or this forum!

[cofetym]

No problem.

[samc]

Welcome and enjoy your stay?
-Oil just use any synthetic 5w-20 and if not 5w-30. I personally use mobil1 but have no problem recommending any other major branded oil
-No you should not waste your money and do your tranny fluid change 3 times. That is IF!!! you used a mercon v oil or else because your fluid was low at some point. And if that was the case the 3 times is to flush out as much of that old fluid as possible. Otherwise drain and fill normally.
-You have a VTM-4 fluid change (if you have 4x4) in the back axle. It's a simple fluid drain and refill using honda vtm-4 fluid and a gallon bottle pump. Be sure to never reuse that pump for any other fluids. Lucky your car doesn't have a separate transfer case service so just vtm and tranny fluids.
-What is your tire budget? There is a thread floating around about General Grabber HTS tires which will run you about $450 installed. I'll probably grab a set of those when the time comes.
-Alignment is always a good thing but I don't feel it's too necessary unless you feel your car drifting to a side or camber wear
-Cabin filter is good as well, but considering that you are spending alot of money on maintenance why not check the current filter first
-Our plugs have a 105k mile life on them. But if you feel that your pilot is running a bit rough then go ahead and change them
-K&N is good although you'll hear different from nay sayers but do what you like.

[pilot_rave]

I recently purchashed an '04 with 77K on the odometer.
I changed all the fluids after reading the stickies in the maintenance forums; Honda fluids are pricey but really there is no alternative to the transmission and VTM-4 fluids. I did the drain and fill for the transmission fluid 3 times over several days as the original fluid was brownish in color and I wanted to get as much of it out as possible. Also, this is much cheaper than replacing the transmission (changing the ATF is the single best thing you can do to prolong the transmission's life). Oil change was a breeze especially since the oil filter is much easier to get to than my old CR-V. I use Valvoline or Castrol 5w-30. Grab some purolator classic/premium oil filters online; they're among the best no need to spend more for the wix... Cabin filter took a bit to get to but easy overall; original one was never changed as I had to cut that plastic molding. I bought the Bosch P3890 online as it was much cheaper than the local parts stores and is one of the best out there. The engine air filter I just grabbed one from the local parts store. Now I feel better as I know all fluids and filters are clean!

Anybody know why the timing belt change interval is 105K OR 7 years? I am at 77K and this is an '04 so should it be changed now or is it safe to wait until 105K?

[rgillie66]

Originally Posted by pilot_rave

I recently purchashed an '04 with 77K on the odometer.

Anybody know why the timing belt change interval is 105K OR 7 years? I am at 77K and this is an '04 so should it be changed now or is it safe to wait until 105K?

The deterioration of the belt material due to age is just as if not more critical than the wear due to mileage. Change it now.

[94eg!]

I personally believe 5w20 is better for your motor. Especially after reading that tech paper on BobIsTheOilGuy.com home page (and it's been tested by Honda). And for those of us that make trips which take less than 20minutes, you will really see a boost in economy and most likely a reduction in wear. This is because your oil doesn't reach full temp until about this much time has passed, which means it's still overly thick to pump and lubricate.

And if your running synthetic, there is no reason not go with those fancy 0w oils. Even though they are marketed as fuel-economy products, they still offer the same protection of 5w products. In fact they actually protect better than standard oil by being thinner at start-up (where 90+% of wear occurs). The easiest ones to find are Mobil-1 0w20 and 0w30 (at walmart in the 5qt jugs for $24). Another one I've found is the Castrol German formula 0w30 at Autozone and Pepboys. This one is probably best if you want a 30wt with it's older SL rating (more high pressure lubricants) but cost more at $7/qt.