DIY Spark Plug Change with pictures

[skamp]

I just changed my spark plugs on my 2006 and wanted to detail the process as some people have had some questions. I have 71,000 miles and wanted to change the plugs as I thought I heard some light pinging and I also feel a bit weird about waiting to 105,000 like the manual calls for. After doing it I think you can wait to 105,000 as the plugs looked great and the gaps were well within spec. The light pinging sound is still there but am not sure if it is really pinging. Anyway on with the process.

On a scale of 1-10 I would rate this a 3. It was very easy if you use the process detailed below. It took about 45 minutes to complete.

** NOTE**
You should only swap the plugs on a cold engine to prevent any issues because the block is aluminum and the plugs have steel threads.

Below are the tools you will need for the change.

3/8" ratchet
3/8" torque wrench
2 x 3/8" short extensions
6mm hex key (can use 6mm hex socket for all but the passenger rear coil)
3/8" spark plug socket
Flat head screwdriver
Anti-seize compound
Dielectric grease



Step 1 - Remove engine cover

Use flat head screwdriver to remove the 3 plastic screws.



Step 2 - Disconnect coil pack wire harness

Disconnect the coil pack wires before removing the coil pack bolt. It will be easier to do it that way. To disconnect, pinch the top of the connector to release the clip and pull up.




Step 3 - Remove coil packs

After disconnecting the wire harness remove the 6mm bolt. I was able to use a 6mm socket for all but the passenger rear bolt. There was a hose in the way for that one so I used a 6mm wrench. After the bolts are removed pull up to remove the coil pack. You will need to go on an angle for some of them.



Step 4 - Blow out dirt from holes

Before removing the plugs it is a good idea to blow out any junk that may be in the plug wells. Use some compressed air to blow the junk out.


Step 5 - Remove plugs

I read a few other post where people uses extensions and flex joints to do this. I was able to get all 6 plugs removed by using 2 extensions only. The way I did this was by connecting 1 extension to the spark plug socket and lowering it down into the plug well. This will leave the extension almost flush to the hole.



Now connect the second extension to the existing extension in the plug well.



After the second extension is attached you can connect the ratchet and then remove the plug.



After the plug is loose, remove the ratchet and pull the extension socket plug assembly enough so you can separate the 2nd extension. You will need to use both hands to do this. You should now have the 1st extension connected to the socket with the plug attached. It will be easy to manipulate the plug out this way. The picture below shows the plug, socket and single extension.



My plugs looked good at 71,000 miles. The color was good and gaps were all within spec.




Step 6 - Prepare new plugs

The new plugs should have a gap of .039-.043. The recommended replacement plug is the NGK IZFR5K-11. These are Laser Iridium plugs. You should put a bit of anti-seize on the threads to allow for easy removal in the future. You should also put a bit of dielectric grease on the white part of the plug to keep the plug boot from sticking.



Step 7 - Install new plugs

Assemble the socket and a single extension and insert the plug into the socket so it looks like the picture below.



Gently lower the assembly into the spark well. Once it is lowered the top of the extension will be somewhat flush with the plug well. Connect the 2nd extension. Hand tighten the plug to make sure you do not cross thread. Once it is hand tight, torque to 13 ft/lbs. I was able to use the torque wrench for all 6 plugs. After the plugs are torqued down, remove the torque wrench from the 2nd extension. Raise the extension assembly enough to separate the 2 extensions. You will need both hands to do this. Once the extensions are separated the remaining extension that is connected to the socket will come out easy.

Step 8 - Reinstall the coil packs

Lower each coil pack into the plug well and make sure it seats all the way. Reinstall the 6mm bolt for each coil pack. The manual calls for 8.6 ft/lbs of torque for the 6mm bolt. I just tightened until it was snug. Reconnect the wire harness for each coil pack making sure it is snapped down all the way.

Step 9 - Reinstall engine cover

Put cover back making sure the 2 rear stems are seated. Tighten the 3 front screws.



That is it. I hope this helps. If you have any questions please ask.

Steve

[cofetym]

Enjoyed your writeup. Thanks for sharing.

[samc]

:thumbs up:

[rocky]

Good job. Sticky quality

Now just wait a few days....someone will post a question on how to change spark plugs.....

[humanoid]

Awesome DIY writeup, thanks!

[LetsGo]

Originally Posted by rocky

Good job. Sticky quality

Now just wait a few days....someone will post a question on how to change spark plugs.....

Agreed on both counts. Nice write-up, skamp. Thank you!

[humanoid]

One question, how difficult was it for you to do the backside plugs, facing the windshield?

[skamp]

Originally Posted by humanoid

One question, how difficult was it for you to do the backside plugs, facing the windshield?

Very easy. All you have to do is lean over the engine a bit. I was easily able to get to all 3 plugs using the 2 extension method. There is a lot of room. Just be careful on the driver side one as there is a hose on the top of the engine that has a clamp that can scratch your arm when reaching over to access the plug.

Steve

[budrow79]

Thanks for the writeup. I will use it as reference material soon. Mine is close to being due.

[daveneo6]

This was a great writeup I just changed my plugs and the '06 pilot is running a lot smoother. I wouldn't have attempted this if I didn't use your guide! It's even easier than it looks!

[budrow79]

Originally Posted by skamp

I just changed my spark plugs on my 2006 and wanted to detail the process as some people have had some questions. I have 71,000 miles and wanted to change the plugs as I thought I heard some light pinging and I also feel a bit weird about waiting to 105,000 like the manual calls for. After doing it I think you can wait to 105,000 as the plugs looked great and the gaps were well within spec. The light pinging sound is still there but am not sure if it is really pinging. Anyway on with the process.

On a scale of 1-10 I would rate this a 3. It was very easy if you use the process detailed below. It took about 45 minutes to complete.

** NOTE**
You should only swap the plugs on a cold engine to prevent any issues because the block is aluminum and the plugs have steel threads.

Below are the tools you will need for the change.

3/8" ratchet
3/8" torque wrench
2 x 3/8" short extensions
6mm hex key (can use 6mm hex socket for all but the passenger rear coil)
3/8" spark plug socket
Flat head screwdriver
Anti-seize compound
Dielectric grease



Step 1 - Remove engine cover

Use flat head screwdriver to remove the 3 plastic screws.



Step 2 - Disconnect coil pack wire harness

Disconnect the coil pack wires before removing the coil pack bolt. It will be easier to do it that way. To disconnect, pinch the top of the connector to release the clip and pull up.




Step 3 - Remove coil packs

After disconnecting the wire harness remove the 6mm bolt. I was able to use a 6mm socket for all but the passenger rear bolt. There was a hose in the way for that one so I used a 6mm wrench. After the bolts are removed pull up to remove the coil pack. You will need to go on an angle for some of them.



Step 4 - Blow out dirt from holes

Before removing the plugs it is a good idea to blow out any junk that may be in the plug wells. Use some compressed air to blow the junk out.


Step 5 - Remove plugs

I read a few other post where people uses extensions and flex joints to do this. I was able to get all 6 plugs removed by using 2 extensions only. The way I did this was by connecting 1 extension to the spark plug socket and lowering it down into the plug well. This will leave the extension almost flush to the hole.



Now connect the second extension to the existing extension in the plug well.



After the second extension is attached you can connect the ratchet and then remove the plug.



After the plug is loose, remove the ratchet and pull the extension socket plug assembly enough so you can separate the 2nd extension. You will need to use both hands to do this. You should now have the 1st extension connected to the socket with the plug attached. It will be easy to manipulate the plug out this way. The picture below shows the plug, socket and single extension.



My plugs looked good at 71,000 miles. The color was good and gaps were all within spec.




Step 6 - Prepare new plugs

The new plugs should have a gap of .039-.043. The recommended replacement plug is the NGK IZFR5K-11. These are Laser Iridium plugs. You should put a bit of anti-seize on the threads to allow for easy removal in the future. You should also put a bit of dielectric grease on the white part of the plug to keep the plug boot from sticking.



Step 7 - Install new plugs

Assemble the socket and a single extension and insert the plug into the socket so it looks like the picture below.



Gently lower the assembly into the spark well. Once it is lowered the top of the extension will be somewhat flush with the plug well. Connect the 2nd extension. Hand tighten the plug to make sure you do not cross thread. Once it is hand tight, torque to 13 ft/lbs. I was able to use the torque wrench for all 6 plugs. After the plugs are torqued down, remove the torque wrench from the 2nd extension. Raise the extension assembly enough to separate the 2 extensions. You will need both hands to do this. Once the extensions are separated the remaining extension that is connected to the socket will come out easy.

Step 8 - Reinstall the coil packs

Lower each coil pack into the plug well and make sure it seats all the way. Reinstall the 6mm bolt for each coil pack. The manual calls for 8.6 ft/lbs of torque for the 6mm bolt. I just tightened until it was snug. Reconnect the wire harness for each coil pack making sure it is snapped down all the way.

Step 9 - Reinstall engine cover

Put cover back making sure the 2 rear stems are seated. Tighten the 3 front screws.



That is it. I hope this helps. If you have any questions please ask.

Steve

I just finished mine tonight on my 2004 Pilot with 92,800 miles on it. The plugs weren't to bad. I agree, they probably could have made it until 105K but I feel better that the new ones are in there.

Nice write up.

[winterspilot]

Thanks very much. I can hardly wait to get to this - my Pilot has 120000 miles on its clock and its gas mileage has taken a severe downturn lately. Strictly speaking, is it necessary to use a torque wrench if I am careful and don't turn them too tightly on installation? I've changed plugs on many cars and never used a torque wrench and never, to my knowledge, caused any damage. Thanks again - this is very nicely done.

[skamp]

Originally Posted by winterspilot

Thanks very much. I can hardly wait to get to this - my Pilot has 120000 miles on its clock and its gas mileage has taken a severe downturn lately. Strictly speaking, is it necessary to use a torque wrench if I am careful and don't turn them too tightly on installation? I've changed plugs on many cars and never used a torque wrench and never, to my knowledge, caused any damage. Thanks again - this is very nicely done.

You will be fine without the touque wrench. I would get the plug seated (just so you feel some resistance) and go about 1/4 of a turn more. You want the gasket on the plug to to seat and seal but you don't want to crank them down too tight. It is only 8.6 ft/lbs so do not overtighten. Also use a bit of anti-seize on the threads. Enjoy.

Steve

[whizmo]

Originally Posted by skamp

You will be fine without the touque wrench. I would get the plug seated (just so you feel some resistance) and go about 1/4 of a turn more. You want the gasket on the plug to to seat and seal but you don't want to crank them down too tight. It is only 8.6 ft/lbs so do not overtighten. Also use a bit of anti-seize on the threads. Enjoy.

The shop manual for a 1st gen says 13 ft-lb.

I'd put it as "You'll probably be fine if you have a good feel for how tight spark plugs are supposed be." The problem with spark plugs is that the gasket it crushable and my experience is that most people are so worried about getting the plugs too tight that they don't get them tight enough. And when this happens, the plug will feel like it snugs up fine, but over time, the gasket will further compress with vibration and the plug will loosen, eventually being finger tight or worse. I think this is the probable cause for many who have reported spark plug issues on the Pilot.

If you're very experienced, you can feel how the torque of a spark plug rises quickly just as the gasket is fully compressed. This is the sign you've got it right. The Pilot's spark plugs are not "torque plus an angle" fasteners and I'd never put one in that way - because of the compressible gasket, the difference between 1/4-turn and 1/4-turn + five degrees might be the difference between proper torque and stripped threads or under torqued.

Personally for this application and given how the Pilot has a bit of a history of spark plugs problems, I'd invest in a torque wrench - if you're at the point where you'd tackle a job like this, it really should be in your toolbox.

- Mark

[winterspilot]

Thanks very much for your responses. By the way, my Pilot is an '03. Is the NGK spark plug recommendation the same as posted above by Steve?