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Old 12-07-2011, 02:56 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by winterspilot View Post
By the way, my Pilot is an '03. Is the NGK spark plug recommendation the same as posted above by Steve?
I would assume the 03 recommendation is the same as an 06, but I don't know for sure. Steve's number (IZFR5K11) matches what my 06 manual says. They also list a Denso SKJ16DR-M11.

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Old 01-09-2012, 10:45 AM   #17 (permalink)
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My Pilot was just short of 105k last week, so I decided to change my spark plugs this past weekend. My engine didn't seem to be running perfectly (could be attributed to anything really), but by no means was it running badly. I haven't had any noticeable difference in performance between the old and new plugs. However, I just wanted to note a few things.
  • I believe in some owner manuals, there is a typo for the NGK model. I saw "IZFR5FK-11" in the manual, but NGK has no such part number. Like it was posted earlier, the correct part is "IZFR5K-11". The four digit part number for this model is "3657".
  • When I was shopping on the web for the IZFR5K-11, most of the auto parts sites claimed that this part "did not fit" my '05 Pilot. I bought that model anyway. It turns out that they were the same as the ones I removed.
  • The old plugs came out pretty easily and looked quite good for the 105k miles of life on them.
  • In the past, I've had the minor issue of the spark plug socket "sticking" to the plug during installation. When trying to pull the socket out, the socket and extension would end up separating from each other. I taped my socket and extensions together to prevent this from happening. Since the spark plug holes were somewhat deep, it would be a bit of a pain if I got my spark plug socket stuck in the well.
  • To help me reach the rear of the engine, I stood on one of my vehicle ramps. I also placed a foam kneeling pad on the front of the hood latch area where I could rest my stomach.

Otherwise, the job was pretty straight forward. This is one of the reasons I liked Hondas - easy maintenance. In comparison, I've seen the DIY procedure for the plugs on a Ford Escape. It's much more complicated. You have to remove like 10 different things just to access the plugs, and you have to replace multiple gaskets as well after opening things up. I also heard than on the last gen Toyota Sienna, something significant has to be removed in the engine bay in order to access the rear plugs.
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Old 01-09-2012, 11:35 AM   #18 (permalink)
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[*]In the past, I've had the minor issue of the spark plug socket "sticking" to the plug during installation. When trying to pull the socket out, the socket and extension would end up separating from each other. I taped my socket and extensions together to prevent this from happening. Since the spark plug holes were somewhat deep, it would be a bit of a pain if I got my spark plug socket stuck in the well.
A light coating of dielectric on the ceramic portion of the plug will cure this problem. No need to tape your sockets together. I found this out just a few months ago. I have been wrestling with that same problem for like 10 years on my various Hondas.
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Old 01-09-2012, 12:19 PM   #19 (permalink)
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A light coating of dielectric on the ceramic portion of the plug will cure this problem. No need to tape your sockets together. I found this out just a few months ago. I have been wrestling with that same problem for like 10 years on my various Hondas.
I thought about that too, but the rubber insert in my socket didn't hold the plug too tight I was afraid that the spark plugs would fall out. It's probably unlikely that it would happen, but I just wanted to be extra careful and be on the safe side. Also, I may be wrong, but I thought the "sticking" had something to do with where the hex portion of the plug and the socket mate. It happens to me all the time on my Honda mower, and I have to turn the ratchet counterclockwise to get it unstuck.

Thanks for the tip though .
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Old 01-09-2012, 01:00 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Oh, your saying the hex gets wedged into the socket after torquing the plug down? I've not had that happen before. Maybe the socket is not quite the correct size or has internal damage. Perhaps it's time for a new socket?
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:23 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Oh, your saying the hex gets wedged into the socket after torquing the plug down? I've not had that happen before. Maybe the socket is not quite the correct size or has internal damage. Perhaps it's time for a new socket?
Yes.

It's a Craftsman standard socket size (5/8" I think), on standard plugs. I didn't seem to have an issue with the socket sticking to the new NGK plugs of the Pilot though. It just seems to happen more often on my mower and its aftermarket plugs. I could get a new socket, but it'll be really low on my "things to buy" list.
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Old 01-09-2012, 05:42 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Well, as long as you got it to work...
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Old 01-10-2012, 12:50 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Ditto on the thanks for a super complete detailing of the spark plug project. Mine are way over due and I'll now tackle the job the job with confidence when we get back from sailing this year.

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Old 01-28-2012, 03:48 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Thank you for the super detailed instructions. Went so smoothly and quickly, my wife kept asking if I'd forgotten anything. Our 2006 has 104,000 on it, and the plugs still look pretty good. Can't wait to see if we get a short term mileage boost with the new plugs.

One suggestion I would add, deals with getting the plugs in and out of the manifold. Rather than trying to get the plug out/in with the spark plug socket, I used an old Toyota Camry plug boot to spin them out. I cut the wire off, just leaving the flexible boot that is exactly long enough to fit in the tube and have enough extended to turn. When backing the plugs out, the boot is flexible which makes it easier trying to navigate the close quarter obstructions. Same thing going back in. The plug fits snugly, so there is no worry about the plug falling back out in the tube.
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Old 02-06-2012, 05:27 PM   #25 (permalink)
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great post! i still have the old camry plug boot. hmm, found this (see quoted statement below) from amazon.com while looking for honda pilot '05 spark plug. it's about anti seize compound. by the way, my spark plug for honda pilot '05 is NGK IZFR5F-11 Laser Platinum Spark Plug. i think 2005 and older uses PZFR5F-11 Laser Platinum Spark Plug.
i used to replace the spark plug wires (for my camry) as well when replacing the plugs. is there an equivalent part to replace for honda pilot? thanks.


"My vehicle is a 1999 Honda Civic. I've also used NGK plugs on: 1988 Honda Accord, 1999 Subaru Forester, and a 2000 Toyota Sienna, with excellent results across the board.

I love working on cars, and spend a LOT of time reading blogs by mechanics, enthusiasts, etc. I've consistently read that NGK makes the best plug, especially for Japanese cars. You'd think that after a century, all plugs would be alike and they'd be a commodity product. Apparently not.

After installing this set of plugs, I ended up calling NGK with a technical question...buried in a PDF* rom NGK, which I accessed online, you're NOT supposed to apply anti-seize to most of their plug threads, as they already have a special coating from NGK. The two main problems are (a) over-torquing effect, and (2) too much anti-seize causing misfiring. The tech and I decided my applying only a little anti-seize and not going bonkers with tightening probably meant all was well. Things have been fine since I installed them a week ago. I was amazed to get a human at NGK, by the way...and a polite, knowledgeable one at that.

I went with the platinums because they're supposed to last longer than the NGK Iridiums I was replacing. The NGK tech told me the Iridiums were "aftermarket, with only one precious metal, while the platinums have both the center and ground electrode made of platinum" in response to my asking why the platinums were a bit more money.

I'd add that spark plugs are one link in your ignition system. If you have an old, worn distributor/rotor (my '99 Honda does) or old ignition wires (NGK makes good, affordable ones - wayyyy better than the generic crap at most auto parts stores, IMO), new plugs may not solve your problem. Do yourself a favor and replace them all. NGK (8028) HE73 Premium Spark Plug Wire Set

* it's called "Tech Bulletin - Anti-Seize Compounds on Spark Plug Threads" so just search for it. Amazon won't let me post the link."
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Old 02-06-2012, 05:28 PM   #26 (permalink)
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oops! my mistake! correction: 2004 and older uses PZFR5F-11 Laser Platinum Spark Plug. sorry!
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Old 02-06-2012, 05:35 PM   #27 (permalink)
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For reference here are the plugs that came off my '06 pilot. At 63k miles they look just fine.

IZFR5K-11 NGKs
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DIY Spark Plug Change with pictures-photo-1.jpg  
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Old 02-06-2012, 06:21 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beato1 View Post
..I'd add that spark plugs are one link in your ignition system. If you have an old, worn distributor/rotor (my '99 Honda does) or old ignition wires (NGK makes good, affordable ones - wayyyy better than the generic crap at most auto parts stores, IMO), new plugs may not solve your problem. Do yourself a favor and replace them all. NGK (8028) HE73 Premium Spark Plug Wire Set..
No... There are no plug wires or even distributor on Honda Pilots. They use electronic controlled direct ignition with an individual coil-pack on each plug.

BTW: Honda also uses NGK Laser Iridium plugs in newer Acura vehicles (04+ I think). They are about the same price as the platinum plugs (usually a little more). Same build as the platinum plugs, but with iridium.
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:51 PM   #29 (permalink)
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hey, thanks. so these coil packs don't need to be replaced like the plug wires?
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Old 02-06-2012, 08:18 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Man I hope not. They are $46 each at best on the internet (and there are 6). But seriously.........No they are not "wear" items. This is one of the key ways modern cars have cut down on maintenance costs.

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