Partial DIY Brakes: Pads, Rotors, Bleed; 2006 Pilot 74k: Thank you to hondaman2!!!

[HondaDIY]

Greetings All!

hondaman2's DIY is the penultimate example of giving to this forum, and I thank him/her for their most important contribution!

In appreciation, I only want to share with the forum members "some" of my experiences with this challenge of the job... actually, the majority of the challenge was in the purchase of the components: I chose the AC-Delco (I was a GM guy for so many years till I bought the Pilot) Durastop D3EA certified rotors and pads.

I just received the front and rear rotors: a slight bit over $200 to the door and the pads, when I receive them tomorrow, will bring the total to-the-door price under $300!

The rotors arrived boxed and ensconced in oil and heavy/sealed plastic... after some brake cleaner and shop towels I've got two of them ready to be installed.

Will update through the weekend...

[rocky]

Replace front brake pads

[HondaDIY]

Originally Posted by rocky

Replace front brake pads

Hey Rocky,

Thank you for the link!

[HondaDIY]

Received the pads... shims included/attached and packets of shim grease included. Quality of production appears high.

I'm ready to begin.

[HondaDIY]

Not much that I can add to the several DIY's regarding the technical aspects of a full brake service on our Pilots - without which, even with the shop manual, I would have had some struggle - especially with the rear rotors/parking brake thing explained later on... just wanted to add some of my personal experiences, a coupla' which echo the challenges encountered in previous posts (the following are in random order):

- a post by member hondacuraplanet says that, "Most dealers just suck the fluid out of the reservoir with a suction gun, and replace it." Trust me, BELIEVE HIM! Turns out our local dealer - Southern Indiana - unless you ask for a “full bleed/flush”, only siphons out the master cylinder when you say, “change the brake fluid...” WHAT ARE THEY THINKING FOR $60 + tax? (last time I trust a dealer when it's cold outside and my garage is at the same cold temp: "Well, you didn't say to flush the brake lines": they're gettin' to be like lawyers now!) As you can see, the fluid in the lines was real bad, though not as dark as in the pic.

- member gifty74 said they had a problem getting the rear rotors off the hub... it turns out I had the same which required removal of the rubber plugs - they would be going into the new rotors - and backing off on the parking brake adjustment using a screwdriver turning the toothed gear because of the ridges on the inside of the rear rotor (sorta' funny story: first plug went FLYING, springing out of the hole about 11 feet away into the tall grass beside the driveway... looked for over 1-1/2 hours with 2 rakes and then a blower... just couldn't find it... ordered a new "CAP, MAINTENANCE HOLE #42511-SP0-000" (used by a bunch of different Honda/Acura rotors as you can see if you type the part number into a search engine). Don't let this happen to you unless you're in an enclosed space/garage if it's gonna' rain, or if your grass is like a putting green.

- Those little bolts in the picture WERE a lifesaver - seen in the 2nd pic - stated in the shop manual and reinforced by member hondaman2: even though I knew the rotors were being replaced, I didn't want to whack on the old ones too much with a metal mallet: using, unsuccessfully, a rubber mallet and then swinging REAL hard with a dead-blow hammer accomplished NOTHING to encourage their movement... a coupla' turns with each of those bolts and the rotors came free.

- Believe the members who said it's gonna' take a some force to get those rusted 79+ lb/ft bolts to break loose the caliper bolts, ESPECIALLY when you don't have the leverage advantage of working with the Pilot at eye-level on a lift but from jack-stands at your home. If you're working down low off of jack-stands, expect some minor bruises as the bolts break free with your breaker bar.

- If you're bleeding using gravity/vacuum, expect a real long time spent at each wheel before the fluid becomes clear/new: I think it best if you have a buddy and do it according the the shop manual using the tried and true method of brake pedal pumping/pressure.

Ok... sorry, the post is already too long... will post additional comments as remembered.

Again, a BIG THANK YOU to so many of you who posted before on this maintenance matter!

[samc]

What were those two bolts for?


I assumed our rotors were held in place with phillips head screws?

[HondaDIY]

What were those two bolts for?

I assumed our rotors were held in place with phillips head screws?

Hey there, member samc...

Yep... they're sorta' held in place by those screws, but basically by the wheel and wheel lugs and, after several winters in the Midwest, a TON of rust!

If you're having trouble getting the rotors off even after a ton of banging away, get two of these bolts... thread them into the appropriate holes... several turns on each while alternating after each revolution and you'll hear a small "thunk" as the rotor pops free: GOOD LUCK with your maintenance!

[samc]

Oh I figured it was something like that, pretty smart of honda to put those holes in. I remember with my volkswagen you had to sit there and bang on the back of the rotor for a good 10 minutes or so sometimes... Good times.

[rooster59]

From watching the vid, I would add a few steps.

Do a good job of cleaning the exposed part of the piston. Lubricate the cleaned exposed piston with clean brake fluid before shoving it back into the caliper. Open the bleeders BEFORE shoving the piston back into the caliper. Don't push old contaminated fluid backward into the master cylinder. Close the bleeders when done.

Clean and lubricate the caliper slider bolts AND the hole they go in. Clean and inspect the slider bolt boots before putting them back on. Use a proper grease like CRC Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease.

After everything is back together, siphon or suck old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir, then fill with new clean fluid.

Flush and Bleed the brakes, adding new clean fluid as necessary.

As for rotors, I think they get turned way too much. If the braking surface is smooth and flat, I don't turn them. A finish sander and some 220 grit black auto body paper will take any glaze off.

Wire brush the mating surfaces between the hub and the rotor. Get all of the rust and crud out of there or they won't bolt on flat and true. Put some anti-seize on those mating surfaces before puting the rotors back on.

[harley909]

Based on my experience a person may want to also change the anti-rattle springs. They are the stainless steel pieces that snap into the caliper and hold the brake pads in place. If the old ones are worn or get slightly bent when you pull out the old brake pads you'll end up with some "noises".
I was able to pick up a set of rear rotors and non-ceramic brake pads for less than $90 "delivered to my door". Albeit they are not "ACDelco" products, but they sure have worked well for me so far.... Not knocking ACDelco...just pointing out another option.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/03-04-05-06-07-08...item2557b9652d