Planned 60k Maintenance on my '06

[Scratch]

As I mentioned in another thread, attempting to locate a local mechanic/dealer that has a decent reputation, as I will be needing 60k maint very soon. Soooo... let me post my planned list of work to do and I'd like to hear the "omg NO don't do that!" "yes do that but only with XXY" etc etc

Planned work for my 06: (Bought the Pilot used, no idea of any previous work done)

Replace Oil & Filter
Inspect front and rear brakes
Replace Brake Fluid
Check parking brake adjustment
Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box, and boots
Inspect suspension components
Inspect driveshaft boots
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS)
Inspect all fluid levels and condition of fluids
Inspect exhaust system
Inspect fuel lines and connections
Rotate Tires
Inspect Drive Belt
Replace Air Filter (Debate on K&N replacement)
Replace transmission and transfer fluid
**Replace spark plugs (Plan for 105k)
**Replace timing belt and inspect water pump (Canceling)
**Inspect valve clearance (Plan for 105k)
**Replace engine coolant (120k / 10yr)
Replace VTM-4 rear differential fluid

--All of these I need to look into having done. I'm working on what I can do with my current setup, and what I need to have done in a shop AND finding a shop that I can somewhat trust.

This is not going to be cheap.

[hondacuraplanet]

My only commentary is that if you're going to replace the timing belt, you're 90% of the way there to water pump replacement. Another 10-15 mins to do the job. There's honestly nothing that any mechanic can ambiently assess from the condition of the outside of the water pump, aside from lateral play in the pump bearing.

[ltp646]

I don't think you need to replace the timing belt/water pump, spark plugs, or even the coolant at 60K mikes. May want to replace the cabin filter.

[jl_ss]

Unless you regularly tow or regularly drive in temps above 110F or below -20F, the timing belt/water pump does not need to be done at 60K. The owners manual says to change it when the MM indicates it is time but does not give a specific mileage interval. Most owners do not meet the severe schedule 60K req's and the normal interval is 105K miles/7years, whichever comes first.

[cofetym]

jl ss hit the nail on the head.

[Scratch]

See this was *just* what I was hoping to get out of here, I assembled the list from general 60k maint. web info, my VIN on Owners Link, and the like. I was REALLY hoping to not do the belt/pump as I just did a timing chain replacement on my old Frontier (135k miles) and it was costly.

The in-cabin filter I did already, you can see the results: Here

Still debating on buying a K&N for the engine filter, just... I've always used them...

[jl_ss]

Originally Posted by Scratch

See this was *just* what I was hoping to get out of here, I assembled the list from general 60k maint. web info, my VIN on Owners Link, and the like. I was REALLY hoping to not do the belt/pump as I just did a timing chain replacement on my old Frontier (135k miles) and it was costly.

The in-cabin filter I did already, you can see the results: Here

Still debating on buying a K&N for the engine filter, just... I've always used them...

TB/WP is roughly $750 at most dealers. Some have noted that they have seen local dealers advertise as low as $400 or so for the TB. I haven't seen that low in my area though.

Inspecting/adjusting the valve clearance and replacing the spark plugs are also not done until 105K unless there is noise coming from the valves or an issue with the plugs.

First engine coolant change is called for at 120K miles or 10 years.

Brake fluid is supposed to be changed every 3 years regardless of mileage.

[jl_ss]

Here's a link to the 2005 Pilot owners manual maintenance section. 2006 was the first year for the maintenance minder - 2005 has the actual intervals:

Link

[samc]

Originally Posted by jl_ss

Here's a link to the 2005 Pilot owners manual maintenance section. 2006 was the first year for the maintenance minder - 2005 has the actual intervals:

Link

JL_SS can you check that pdf link. All I see is a 1 page pdf which looks like the maintenance book index.

[LetsGo]

Originally Posted by Scratch

Still debating on buying a K&N for the engine filter, just... I've always used them...

I'd say skip, especially if it sits under the hood, for two reasons: 1) It will pull in hotter under-hood air than the stock intake and you will lose performance, and 2) they let more dirt into the engine.

[samc]

If the OP is referring to the normal panel air filter then it wouldn't pull in hotter or colder air as the normal oem filters. And who told you this myth about 2)? They actually work alot better then paper filters and you really can reuse them over and over.

[jl_ss]

Originally Posted by samc

JL_SS can you check that pdf link. All I see is a 1 page pdf which looks like the maintenance book index.

You should be able to navigate to the different sections by clicking on the page numbers and using the arrrows in the upper right corner. There is a link to the main menu at the top left also.

[LetsGo]

[QUOTE=samc;357636And who told you this myth about 2)? They actually work alot better then paper filters and you really can reuse them over and over.[/QUOTE]

Maybe according to K&N they work better, and you can reuse them over and over for sure, but I do think they let more dirt in the engine. Too many people report used oil analyses with high silicon in the used oil when they are using K&N and other gauze and foam oiled filters. I've used foam oiled filters before and it had no noticeable effect at all on performance, even at full throttle. Once I started reading about the high Si numbers in oil and reasoned through the intake system and where the restrictions are (at the throttle plate), I just cut it up and used it as a filter on the air intake of my PC to keep the dust from clogging up the heatsinks and power supply. Works great for that!

Here's one thread I found with several folks who had high Si numbers on used oil analyses: Threw away K&N's due to high silicon in UOA's - Bob Is The Oil Guy

[Scratch]

I tend to avoid Internet Factual Forum Posts, I've used K&N in both the drop-in and CAI Cone filters on practically every vehicle I've owned for a long time now. I would only go after Si tests if I paid the money to have a test run on my Pilot as a baseline then again with the K&N drop-in done.

Never had an issue. Plus since I put in the K&N in the Pilot, my butt dyno feels a hp and mpg gain

[LetsGo]

Originally Posted by Scratch

I tend to avoid Internet Factual Forum Posts, I've used K&N in both the drop-in and CAI Cone filters on practically every vehicle I've owned for a long time now. I would only go after Si tests if I paid the money to have a test run on my Pilot as a baseline then again with the K&N drop-in done.

Never had an issue. Plus since I put in the K&N in the Pilot, my butt dyno feels a hp and mpg gain

The imagination is a powerful thing!