rotor specs....can they be turned?

[boostmiser]

What is the recommended minimum thickness of the rotor?
I've got 72K on my '06 and will be replacing the pads, and if necessary, rotors. Not sure if they have one turn in them or if they have to be replaced every pad change. I'll mic them first but need to know the specs. Thanks.

[hondapilotjim]

Originally posted by boostmiser
What is the recommended minimum thickness of the rotor?
I've got 72K on my '06 and will be replacing the pads, and if necessary, rotors. Not sure if they have one turn in them or if they have to be replaced every pad change. I'll mic them first but need to know the specs. Thanks.

the rotors are stamped with min. thickness in mm

[boostmiser]

<26mm is out of spec. I measured 27.8mm after 73K miles so there should be no problem turning them...which I'll do this weekend as well as replace the pads.

[hondapilotjim]

Originally posted by boostmiser
<26mm is out of spec. I measured 27.8mm after 73K miles so there should be no problem turning them...which I'll do this weekend as well as replace the pads.

better ask njay first before you do anything.this might not meet his specs.

[N_Jay]

Originally posted by hondapilotjim


better ask njay first before you do anything.this might not meet his specs.

[rocky]

My rears were worn below minimum thickness so I've just put on new pads and rotors there.

First car I've had where the rears wore out before the front.

Yup, front brakes only 50% worn after 90k.

[whizmo]

Before turning them, I'd check the price of new rotors vs. the cost of the machining. Personally, I do nothing until below spec or they become deeply grooved - then I replace.

- Mark

[tangotango99]

Originally posted by whizmo
Before turning them, I'd check the price of new rotors vs. the cost of the machining. Personally, I do nothing until below spec or they become deeply grooved - then I replace.

- Mark

I replaced my front rotors with aftermarket type,cheaper but with a lot of issues

[N_Jay]

I used Brembo (non-slotted, non-drilled)
Less than OEM,and in my opinion, better.
And they come with new screws.

[NJGuy]

Much of the information discussed here can be found in the DIY Brake Job Thread
DIY Brake Job

Before turning them, I'd check the price of new rotors vs. the cost of the machining. Personally, I do nothing until below spec or they become deeply grooved - then I replace.

I considered machining my front rotors to clean the surfaces (had a very mild vibration during braking) and especially to remove the excess material on the edges. That was until I damaged one trying to get it unstuck from the hub.

I replaced my front rotors with aftermarket type,cheaper but with a lot of issues

Since one of my rotors was already toast, I bought some cheaper aftermarket ones as well; Napa premium rotors, ~$45 each at the store. I actually would have gone with their higher end model (ultra-premium, ~$80 each), but the store didn't have them in stock and I was short on time. Both types I believe are made in China. With 5k+ on the Napa rotors and OEM replacement pads, I've had no issues with them.

By the way, the Napa rotors are made by raybestos; I believe the Napa premiums are the same as the raybestos professional grade line and the Napa ultra-premiums are the same as the raybestos advanced technology line. They can be found pretty cheap at amazon.com or rockauto.com, who conicidentally acted as a fulfillment source for amazon on one of my orders. (Don't you just love how branding works nowadays?) Sorry for the thread drift.