DIY (J35A4) timing belt replacement - Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums

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Old 03-09-2010, 11:55 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Smile DIY (J35A4) timing belt replacement

2004 Pilot timing belt DYI
(for the 105,000 mile timing belt service)

Parts List:
-Timing belt: 14400-P8A-A02
-Adjuster automatic (hydraulic tensioner): 14520-P8E-A01
-Adjuster - timing belt: 14510-PGE-A01
-Idler pulley - timing belt: 14550-P8A-A01 (OR) 14550-PGE-A01 (there are 2 numbers listed)
-Alternator/Compressor belt: 38920-P8F-A02
-Power steering belt: 56992-P8A-A01
-O-RING (8.8X1.9): 91302-GE0-000
-Fender trip clips (X7): 91501-S04-003

Procedure:
-Remove tire and place the Pilot on a jack stand.
-Remove the clips holding the fender liner and lower splash shield in place (x7) and fold them out of the way.
-Make sure the #1 piston is on top dead center using the marks on the crank pulley and lower timing belt cover (19mm in the crank pulley).
-Remove the Alternator-Compressor belt (14mm boxend) & Power Steering belt. (2-12mm and 1-12mm tensioner bolt)
-Loosen the crank pulley. If you have an impact wrench or a long breaker bar it makes it easier to remove the bolt. You will also need a special tool crankshaft pulley holder (50mm) (19mm and special tool).
-Remove the side engine mount bracket (5-14mm bolts).
-Remove the crankshaft pulley.
-Remove the oil dipstick & tube (10mm).
-Remove the front & rear 'upper covers' of the timing belt housing, moving the wire harness out of the way first (5-10mm bolts for each cover).
-Remove the lower cover (7-10mm bolts).
-Remove the engine mount bracket that is bolted to the block (3-14mm bolts).
-Remove the hydraulic tensioner (2-10mm bolts).
-Remove the tensioner pulley (you will reuse the inner sleave) (14mm bolt).
-Remove the idler pulley bolt (14mm bolt with thread locker on it) (I used Loctite 242 during the reinstall because I had it on the shelf).
-Remove the timing belt.
-Before installing a new timing belt, make sure the pulleys, belt guide plate, upper & lower covers are clean and check to see if the crank and cams have rotated (mine did not move).
-The install is the reverse order of removal (make sure you torque everything correctly!)
-The removal of the lock pin in the hydraulic tensioner gave me a little trouble so I used pliers.
-Once the crank pulley is back on, check the lower timing mark (and the cam marks) before the top covers are installed.

Photos:
Looking from above showing the accessory belts removed along with the motor mount.


Side view showing same including the lower cover


Crank pulley bolt removal (loosen the bolt before removing the motor mount!)


Close up


Lower cover showing crank end and lower part of the dipstick tube (hydraulic tensioner can be seen behind VTEC solenoid) (crank timing mark can also be seen)


Upper and lower covers removed (12mm power steering adjuster nut shown)


Lower cover removed (rubber plug in the dipstick opening to prevent trash from falling in)


Different angle to show both 14mm pulley bolts
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Old 03-09-2010, 11:57 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Top view showing timing belt, tensioner, and pulleys off


Top view showing water pump. Also showing the belt, pulleys, and tensioner removed


Bottom view showing the belt, pulleys, and tensioner removed


Bolt (silver one closer to the front of the block) with thread lock


Old parts and removed parts


Old parts, lower cover, motor mount


Covers, mount, dipstick (and new o-ring)


Various tools used (bag shows the part number for the trim clips)
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Old 03-09-2010, 12:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the writeup. This should have a sticky in the maintenance section! I've bookmarked it for future reference.
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Old 03-09-2010, 09:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks!
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Old 03-20-2010, 11:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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2 Weeks late.....

Thank you muchas gracias!!
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Old 03-22-2010, 07:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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One suggestion, modify the parts list so it reads:

Parts List:
-Timing belt: 14400-P8A-A02
-Adjuster automatic (hydraulic tensioner): 14520-P8E-A01
-Adjuster - timing belt: 14510-PGE-A01
-Idler pulley - timing belt: 14550-P8A-A01 (OR) 14550-PGE-A01 (there are 2 numbers listed)
-Alternator/Compressor belt: 38920-P8F-A02
-Power steering belt: 56992-P8A-A01
-O-RING (8.8X1.9): 91302-GE0-000
-Fender trip clips (X7): 91501-S04-003

That is add dashes in the 3rd and 4th items. I know it's a small detail but when I first read the list and saw "adjuster timing belt" and "idler pulley timing belt" it pretty much made no sense and made it seem like there's at least 3 different timing belts for the engine.
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Old 03-29-2010, 11:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by swamper8
One suggestion, modify the parts list so it reads:
Post has been updated
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Old 03-31-2010, 12:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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My dad's 2004 Pilot need a timing belt. The honda dealer says $750 to replace it and the water pump and new fluids.

I called the toyota service shop where I like to have most of my maintenance done (they work on most models, not just toyota) and they said they could do it but there is a note in there that says it requires a hook up to a computer afterwards so it should probably be done at a Honda Dealer in case it would have to be towed after the procedure.

That step is not included in this writeup so I was wondering if it would be worth it to save probably $300 having the toyota dealer do it.

Any help is appreciated.

thanks.
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Old 03-31-2010, 12:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by area123
My dad's 2004 Pilot need a timing belt. The honda dealer says $750 to replace it and the water pump and new fluids.

I called the toyota service shop where I like to have most of my maintenance done (they work on most models, not just toyota) and they said they could do it but there is a note in there that says it requires a hook up to a computer afterwards so it should probably be done at a Honda Dealer in case it would have to be towed after the procedure.

That step is not included in this writeup so I was wondering if it would be worth it to save probably $300 having the toyota dealer do it.

Any help is appreciated.

thanks.
Better to have one place to blame if it all goes wrong.
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Old 03-31-2010, 12:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by rocky


Better to have one place to blame if it all goes wrong.
I agree but since this is a DIY post and I don't see any computer calibration steps I thougt someone would advise us as to whether is was really necessary. Also it will save about $300+.

thanks.
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Old 04-10-2010, 11:53 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I don't recall any car being needed to hooked up to the obdii scanner after a timing belt job. Perhaps honda just put that in there to check for codes.

How about you find a shop that specializes in engine work such as timing belts and see what they say.


Quote:
Originally posted by area123
My dad's 2004 Pilot need a timing belt. The honda dealer says $750 to replace it and the water pump and new fluids.

I called the toyota service shop where I like to have most of my maintenance done (they work on most models, not just toyota) and they said they could do it but there is a note in there that says it requires a hook up to a computer afterwards so it should probably be done at a Honda Dealer in case it would have to be towed after the procedure.

That step is not included in this writeup so I was wondering if it would be worth it to save probably $300 having the toyota dealer do it.

Any help is appreciated.

thanks.
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Old 04-16-2010, 02:56 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Here is a crank pulley tool option from amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_i=507846
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Old 04-18-2010, 03:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I have a crank pulley tool for this job (new in package).

Decided to have the dealer do the timing belt.

$20 shipped...take paypal
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Old 04-19-2010, 05:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by 22350VCPILOT
I have a crank pulley tool for this job (new in package).

Decided to have the dealer do the timing belt.

$20 shipped...take paypal

I am interested. PM'ed you.
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Old 04-20-2010, 05:04 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Great pictures and write up.
Thanks for taking the trouble to post it.
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