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DIY (J35A4) timing belt replacement

301K views 282 replies 86 participants last post by  sparkydave 
#1 ·
2004 Pilot timing belt DYI
(for the 105,000 mile timing belt service)

Parts List:
-Timing belt: 14400-P8A-A02
-Adjuster automatic (hydraulic tensioner): 14520-P8E-A01
-Adjuster - timing belt: 14510-PGE-A01
-Idler pulley - timing belt: 14550-P8A-A01 (OR) 14550-PGE-A01 (there are 2 numbers listed)
-Alternator/Compressor belt: 38920-P8F-A02
-Power steering belt: 56992-P8A-A01
-O-RING (8.8X1.9): 91302-GE0-000
-Fender trip clips (X7): 91501-S04-003

Procedure:
-Remove tire and place the Pilot on a jack stand.
-Remove the clips holding the fender liner and lower splash shield in place (x7) and fold them out of the way.
-Make sure the #1 piston is on top dead center using the marks on the crank pulley and lower timing belt cover (19mm in the crank pulley).
-Remove the Alternator-Compressor belt (14mm boxend) & Power Steering belt. (2-12mm and 1-12mm tensioner bolt)
-Loosen the crank pulley. If you have an impact wrench or a long breaker bar it makes it easier to remove the bolt. You will also need a special tool crankshaft pulley holder (50mm) (19mm and special tool).
-Remove the side engine mount bracket (5-14mm bolts).
-Remove the crankshaft pulley.
-Remove the oil dipstick & tube (10mm).
-Remove the front & rear 'upper covers' of the timing belt housing, moving the wire harness out of the way first (5-10mm bolts for each cover).
-Remove the lower cover (7-10mm bolts).
-Remove the engine mount bracket that is bolted to the block (3-14mm bolts).
-Remove the hydraulic tensioner (2-10mm bolts).
-Remove the tensioner pulley (you will reuse the inner sleave) (14mm bolt).
-Remove the idler pulley bolt (14mm bolt with thread locker on it) (I used Loctite 242 during the reinstall because I had it on the shelf).
-Remove the timing belt.
-Before installing a new timing belt, make sure the pulleys, belt guide plate, upper & lower covers are clean and check to see if the crank and cams have rotated (mine did not move).
-The install is the reverse order of removal (make sure you torque everything correctly!)
-The removal of the lock pin in the hydraulic tensioner gave me a little trouble so I used pliers.
-Once the crank pulley is back on, check the lower timing mark (and the cam marks) before the top covers are installed.

Photos:
Looking from above showing the accessory belts removed along with the motor mount.


Side view showing same including the lower cover


Crank pulley bolt removal (loosen the bolt before removing the motor mount!)


Close up


Lower cover showing crank end and lower part of the dipstick tube (hydraulic tensioner can be seen behind VTEC solenoid) (crank timing mark can also be seen)


Upper and lower covers removed (12mm power steering adjuster nut shown)


Lower cover removed (rubber plug in the dipstick opening to prevent trash from falling in)


Different angle to show both 14mm pulley bolts
 
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8
#2 ·
Top view showing timing belt, tensioner, and pulleys off


Top view showing water pump. Also showing the belt, pulleys, and tensioner removed


Bottom view showing the belt, pulleys, and tensioner removed


Bolt (silver one closer to the front of the block) with thread lock


Old parts and removed parts


Old parts, lower cover, motor mount


Covers, mount, dipstick (and new o-ring)


Various tools used (bag shows the part number for the trim clips)
 
#97 ·
Top view showing water pump. Also showing the belt, pulleys, and tensioner removed
You know... this doesn't show how to do a timing belt AND waterpump. Maybe I'll update this when I do mine.
The water pump is shown in the photo above.
When you get to this step... remove the bolts and replace the water pump.

See this thread on how to drain/flush the coolant:
http://www.piloteers.org/forums/18-maintenance/26126-diy-coolant-flush-2004-a.html
 
#6 ·
One suggestion, modify the parts list so it reads:

Parts List:
-Timing belt: 14400-P8A-A02
-Adjuster automatic (hydraulic tensioner): 14520-P8E-A01
-Adjuster - timing belt: 14510-PGE-A01
-Idler pulley - timing belt: 14550-P8A-A01 (OR) 14550-PGE-A01 (there are 2 numbers listed)
-Alternator/Compressor belt: 38920-P8F-A02
-Power steering belt: 56992-P8A-A01
-O-RING (8.8X1.9): 91302-GE0-000
-Fender trip clips (X7): 91501-S04-003

That is add dashes in the 3rd and 4th items. I know it's a small detail but when I first read the list and saw "adjuster timing belt" and "idler pulley timing belt" it pretty much made no sense and made it seem like there's at least 3 different timing belts for the engine.
 
#8 ·
My dad's 2004 Pilot need a timing belt. The honda dealer says $750 to replace it and the water pump and new fluids.

I called the toyota service shop where I like to have most of my maintenance done (they work on most models, not just toyota) and they said they could do it but there is a note in there that says it requires a hook up to a computer afterwards so it should probably be done at a Honda Dealer in case it would have to be towed after the procedure.

That step is not included in this writeup so I was wondering if it would be worth it to save probably $300 having the toyota dealer do it.

Any help is appreciated.

thanks.
 
#9 ·
area123 said:
My dad's 2004 Pilot need a timing belt. The honda dealer says $750 to replace it and the water pump and new fluids.

I called the toyota service shop where I like to have most of my maintenance done (they work on most models, not just toyota) and they said they could do it but there is a note in there that says it requires a hook up to a computer afterwards so it should probably be done at a Honda Dealer in case it would have to be towed after the procedure.

That step is not included in this writeup so I was wondering if it would be worth it to save probably $300 having the toyota dealer do it.

Any help is appreciated.

thanks.
Better to have one place to blame if it all goes wrong.
 
#11 ·
I don't recall any car being needed to hooked up to the obdii scanner after a timing belt job. Perhaps honda just put that in there to check for codes.

How about you find a shop that specializes in engine work such as timing belts and see what they say.


area123 said:
My dad's 2004 Pilot need a timing belt. The honda dealer says $750 to replace it and the water pump and new fluids.

I called the toyota service shop where I like to have most of my maintenance done (they work on most models, not just toyota) and they said they could do it but there is a note in there that says it requires a hook up to a computer afterwards so it should probably be done at a Honda Dealer in case it would have to be towed after the procedure.

That step is not included in this writeup so I was wondering if it would be worth it to save probably $300 having the toyota dealer do it.

Any help is appreciated.

thanks.
 
#16 ·
Did you ever sell that crank pulley tool? Interested...
 
#17 ·
Just got a quote from Performance Honda is Fairfield OH. I asked for quotes for:

--Full 105k mile service (normal conditions), OR

--Replace timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, brake fluid
--Inspect/adjust accessory drive belts
--Inspect valve clearance

The response:

--TIMING BELT PACKAGE- INC. TIMING BELT, WATER PUMP, DRIVE BELTS, TIMING BELT TENSIONER, COOLANT, AND LABOR 950.00 +TAX+SS
--SPARK PLUGS- 249.002+TAX+SS
--BRAKES FLUID- 55.00+TAX+SS
--VALVES- RARE TO BE NEEDED BUT RUNS 450.00+TAX+SS + GASKETS ~(50.00)
--COMPLETE PACKAGE- 1429.00+TAX+SS INCLUDES, T-BELT PACKAGE, OIL CHANGE, TIRE ROTATION, BRAKE FLUID CHANGE, SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT, SERVICE THE BRAKES, LUBE LATCHES, HINGES, SEALS, WINDOW RUN CHANNELS, ROAD AND SAFETY CHECK

First of all, what's "SS?" I guess the prices are about what I expected. Definitely higher than I hoped though. I realized after reading the response that the coolant is needed with the water pump, and the accessory belts have to be removed to do the Tbelt, so they might as well be replace instead of just inspected/adjusted. All the extra stuff in the Complete Package is stuff I could do, but it needs done (due for oil change, windows are squeaking) and my time is worth something. Or I could have the dealer do the Tbelt pkg and see if my local shop can do the plugs and brake fluid cheaper. Decision, decisions.

I did reply back and asked, "With the valves, is there any way to inspect them without removing the valve covers? Do you normally just listen for excessive noise?" I let y'all know what he says.

Comments? Suggestions?
 
#18 ·
Just got the response:

SS = shop supplies which = $20.00 on that job ( 6.0% of labor up to $ 20.00).

Regarding the valves, yes we will listen to see if they need adjusted but I have only seen one car that actually needed them adjusted, it's just very rare.

No there is no way to inspect without removing the covers so inspection = adjustment
 
#24 ·
I'm expecting a quote from a FLIM (friendly local independent mechanic) shortly, and I'll let y'all know what it is.

I've pretty much decided that I'm going to pay someone to do the "Timing Belt Package" and brake fluid, then do the rest myself.
 
#25 ·
A question about the parts list as it is longer that I had expected. I wasn't anticipating the following 3 items:

-Adjuster automatic (hydraulic tensioner): 14520-P8E-A01
-Adjuster - timing belt: 14510-PGE-A01
-Idler pulley - timing belt: 14550-P8A-A01 (OR) 14550-PGE-A01 (there are 2 numbers listed)

My service manual details a procedure for reloading the tensioner, and directs the re-instillation of the other two items. Were these items replaced in your DIY on spec, or am I missing something?

Thanks,

Pete
 
#26 ·
My service manual details a procedure for reloading the tensioner, and directs the re-instillation of the other two items. Were these items replaced in your DIY on spec, or am I missing something?
I chose to replace all of the wear items as the added cost was cheap insurance vs. a costly failure of any items before the next service interval.
A expensive failure is not something that would care to experience. :29:

"While I was in there...."
 
#27 ·
Hey guys quick question. I have a 2004 Pilot with 76.000 miles on it for the past year my local dealer / maintenance shop kept on pushing me to replace the timing belt where they say is due before 70.000.... My BS meeter didn't handle it well.
What's the right mileage to replace it, about 100.000? I don't a have problem with the shop doing it, but I have a problem with trying to sale me stuff every time I go there before things are due to be proactively replaced.
What do you guys guide me to do?
 
#28 ·
Its due at 105,000 miles OR seven years, whichever comes first. I think you are pretty close based on the seven year mark.
 
#30 ·
Hi, on the 105,000 mile service I have replaced the three belts, the two timing belt pulleys, the front seal, and the water pump successfully this week on my 2003 Pilot with 110,000 miles. I was able to re-set and re-use my hydraulic tensioner as Piloteers and others suggested with a vice and a removable pin.

However, I am experiencing significant dull clanking, moaning noise and knocking which is intermittent in the region of the timing belt, water pump, or engine front (right fender) motor mount or steering pump. Its hard to decide just where it originates from. It is loudest at idle, tending to diminish with higher speeds.

I did notice the engine-front (right fender) mount rubber is cracking when I had it out. I plan to replace that. But since the noise is intermittent and I can't feel the vibration physically from touching the metal parts of the mount, I don't suppose this could be the direct source.

Sometimes it is silent, sometimes it is medium loud, and other times it turns heads at a traffic light. I can't tell if the noise is from the steering pump, the water pump, or the hydraulic tensioner resulting in a loose timing belt.

Other Piloteers have suggested if it's a hydraulic tenioner problem it would show up mostly at higher RPMs. Mine does not. Does this sound like it is a hydraulic tensioner issue?

It could be the power steering pump. Perhaps at first I had the new belt too tight? I have checked the fluid level, loosened the belt to looser than normal. Steering seems to be otherwise normal. No change in the sound when turning at low RPMs.
 
#280 ·
Excellent thread! Can somebody please post the torque settings?
Here are some torque specs I found, not sure if anyone else already posted this, found this on an online source for repair manuals. Cardiagn.com

Auto tensioner mount bolt 19 ft-lbs
Camshaft sprocket center bolt (1) 67 ft-lbs
Camshaft pulley bolt 181 ft-lbs

Engine mount bracket (front)
10 X 1.25 mm bolts 33 ft lbs
6 X 1.0 bolt (2) 106 inch lbs

Engine side mount bracket
10 X 1.25 mm bolts (3) 33 ft lbs
12 X 1.25 mm bolt 40 ft lbs

Idler pulley bolt 33 ft lbs
Power steering pump lock nut 17 ft lbs
Power steering pump mount bolt 17 ft lbs

Auto tensioner maintenance bolt 17 inch lbs
dipstick and tube (4) 106 inch lbs
Ground cable bolt 106 inch lbs
Lower engine splash sheild bolt 106 inch lbs
Timing belt cover bolts 106 inch lbs
Water pump bolts 106 inch lbs

(1) Apply engine oil to threads
(2) Tighten bolt to 106 inch pounds
(3) Tighten these bolts first
(4) Use new O-ring

Also caused by cavitation? View attachment 143100
Possible but do not bother taking your vehicle to the dentist because insurance doesn't cover it.
 
#35 ·
I can see them just fine.
 
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